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jon

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Everything posted by jon

  1. Will give custom titles for !
  2. At a pube club a few months ago hikerwa and I were talking about getting a team together to do some of these relay events. I wouldn't be the least bit surprised if we could get a somewhat competitive team together. We could call it Team Horsecock and it would be plab
  3. If you got any beta hook a brutha up and post it otherwise STFU.
  4. I don't know who locked the first post but upon discovering that I decided to lock the second one. Here's how I see it. Whomever at that store is posting the slide show announcements is doing us all a huge favor and I'm for one really greatful, I mean shit Greg Child for free, I can't wait to see it. What do they get for putting on a free show in return? Not much is my guess. People on this site bash on every corporate company that makes climbing gear. I'm not saying some of it isn't deserved but I'd be a little reticent to post a show my shop was putting on like this knowing that my announcement was going to turn into a sprayfest. The guys in that store aren't getting rich working for TNF, they do it cause they get to work in a climbing shop and get some of the fringe benefits of doing so. Meanwhile we bash on them while we are at work not doing our jobs. Hypocritical? Maybe. Would you be pissed if people here started bashing on your company? How about the 8% of our site traffic from Microsoft, or the 5% from Boeing? I'm sure you wouldn't be pleased if your company of trade started getting ripped apart. It would be nice if more would post these announcements like Marmot in Bellevue and other shops or organizations. For that matter even more people in the industry responding to questions. I'm a little surprised that Jules still posts considering how much REI gets bashed on here. All that and she is still willing to help some random person who is having a warrantee problem with their tent. It's the internet, it's impersonal, and there are bound to be people who will say stupid shit because they feel safe with their anonymity behind their keyboard and monitor. But what the fuck do I know......
  5. jon

    Better than HC

    I hate malenaise!
  6. I've got some DMMs and like them, and plan on buying a few more. They do tend to walk but what do you expect from something so light. Cam stops and dual length slings are cool features. And they are light as fawk! I think on Jim Nelson's site he explains that 7 Camalots weight the same as 10 DMMs, and while BDs have a wider range you can carry more cams with the DMMs covering your range better.
  7. The garmet will breath whether there is DWR or not, but in both cases won't breath when wet. It will breath less if it is dirty. I've found you definately want to wash the garmet at least every year. If you ski or climb a lot with it you might even want to wash it every month. I've got a 8 year old Marmot Alpinist Jacket and a 5 year old cheapo imitation I got from Pro Mountain Sports and they still work great. I wash them periodically, treat them with Revivex, and iron the Marmot to melt any tiny fibers that are sticking up, especially around stitching. The breathability of any fabric whether it is Goretex or a knockoff is based on two factors, water vapor transport and the ability of the outer fabric to resist soaking up water. If the the outer fabric gets soaked the garmet is useless. The outer fabrics ability to resist soaking up water is based on the surface tension of water. Now the science lesson. Notice if you take a small bit of water and put it on a smooth surface like glass it will form a bead instead of just becoming really flat like intuition would tell you. This is strange physical property of water called surface tension. Water wants to minimize it's outer surface area because it is more energeticaly favorable, so by forming a bead it has a lower outer surface area than if it were really flat. So on a garmet that is clean and properly treated the water will bead up and fall right off which is great. Unfortunately (at least for clothes) waters surface tension can be alter by things called surfactants, things like dirt, salts, body oils, chemicals, and loose fibers on the surface of the jacket. These things will keep the water from beading up and falling off, eventually allowing the water to soak into the jacket, and at that point you might as well be wearing garbage bag. By washing the garmet you are removing the things that lower the surface tension of water. Make sure when you wash you don't use detergent becuase it drastically lowers the surface tension of water, use one of those Nikwax deals or just use plain old hot water. You also want to iron on low heat areas that are worn to melt away any micro fibers that are sticking up. Basically the smoother and cleaner the outer surface is, the better water will bead up and the better it will perform when it gets nasty outside.
  8. If there is one reason to join in my mind is the rescue insurance. If happen to be picked up by a medivac helicopter billed $5000 out of your own pocket for the ride. Most insurace companies don't cover that.
  9. There is an blerb on CNN and there is a press release on mountainlight.com.
  10. Iaiaiaiaian, that photo is a fake! Everyone knows that the Squirell with big nutz doesn't go boarding without his helmet and a cup on.
  11. I've used Revivex and had incredible sucess with it. Pro Mountain Sports sells it.
  12. Both you and Trask are just not that funny today. The owners name is Aaron Feuerstein. The company was founded Malden, Massachusetts.
  13. I saw an interesting story on TV last night about the company Malden Mills, the maker of Polartech, which has filed for bankruptcy protection. Seven years ago, during a time where other textile manufacturers where moving out of the country to cut costs, Malden Mills manufacturing plant in some podunk midwest town burnt to the ground. With 300 million in insurance money the owner could have easily have walked away with the money, or moved the plant out of the country. He decided to stay in the same town and build a state of the art facility. He unselfishly paid his workers until the new facility was ready. The owner (can't remember his name) said the biggest mistake he ever made was not patenting the polar fleece process which they invented. Now with intense competition from overseas and increasing costs the company may be in trouble. As a consumer please make the right decision and support companies in the United States that remain commited to it's workforce and the environment, even if it means paying a few more bucks.
  14. Your house could explode because you have a closet full of half empty (or is that half full) canisters.
  15. Man I'm really bummed out.
  16. Just go back to the store later when a different person is working the counter. If you are still getting a hard time ask if you can talk to a manager. If that doesn't work tell them you will contact the manufacturer directly and reporting the incident to the Better Business Bureau. Don't be an ass because I'm sure the they see plenty of winey gapers complaining because their new Makalus hurt their feet, but you'd be surprised how my previous statement will get somebodies attention really quickly.
  17. DRU THAT IS SO FREAKIN HILARIOUS!!!!
  18. jon

    Dru hits 5500

    quote: Originally posted by trask: I'd love to be a moderator You better get to work then!
  19. Thanks for answering my question ladies
  20. In general is there any need for 60m doubles? I'm assuming not.
  21. This is probably the stupidest and funniest shit I've heard while climbing, and we still joke about this to this day. I was on this trip with some friends in the Icicle a few years back. One of the guys wouldn't stop talking about the guy who taught him how to climb and lead on gear. After rapping to the base of the route my friend blurted out "yeah, the things that guy made me do gave me a hard on!" Didn't help that we always harassed him for acting gay even though he wasn't.
  22. Check out this good discussion from a while back http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=000254
  23. 25 cent Britney Spears stickers from the enterance at the grocery store.
  24. jon

    Pink partners

    quote: Originally posted by allison: Welcome to our little cesspool, Dr. Flash! It's not your cesspool.
  25. There is also a jump to new post thing at the top of the page. Couple cool new features worth having.
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