jon

I'm pretty torn between "Woven Bead Chains or Necklaces" and "Supporting Microsoft Windows 2000 Professional and Server".

Personally I'm waiting for the next edition of "Freedom of the Hills", where in the crevasse rescue section they show you how to make a signal from your partners blood, a flare, and a tent pole.

How much Redhook did we consume before you posted this?

I also really like the Makalus. I've had mine for quite a while now, and they have really held up. Adding Nikwax has made pretty impregnable to water. I agree with the break in time, I remember it did take a while but I don't remember it ever being really painful. I have had problems with the top front part where the leather folds starting at the laces pushing down on my toes and making them a bit raw, but this only happens occasionally and I've worked the leather a bit so it isn't as bad. These boots have been around for a long time, and have won many awards, so I’m curious who doesn’t like them and why? I’m also looking for some new boots, something stiffer and warmer. I’m not a huge fan of plastic boots, though it looks as they have gotten much better. I’ve been looking at the new La Sportiva Lhotse and the time tested Nepals, as well as the Salomon Mountain 9s. Does anyone have these or offer some suggestions. -Jon

Good call on the Eiger Sanction! That was a good all around movie. I think my favorite part is when he leaves that guy in the desert, and the dog jumps in as Clint is about to drive off (that's what happened, right?). I think I disagree on K2 though, maybe because I was a younger chap when it came out and I had just read the Last Step by Rick Ridgeway. There was nothing really outrageous about the movie; it was actually pretty accurate for Hollywood. I’m sure I will be torn apart for saying this, but make sure you name a better recent climbing movie when you do. So since we are talking about movies, the Banff Mountain Film festival will be at the Mountaineers building on 29-30 NOV & 01 DEC 2000. Call 206-284-6310 for Tickets. I’ve been to a few of these the past couple of years, pretty fun, can get long though so bring some snacks. -Jon

I'd be more worried with the increase of ice axe violence in schools.

One thing I have been pondering for the past month is what type of snowfall we will have this year. This past summer and fall has been exceptionally dry considering how wet it has been the past two years, certainly not the three months of continuous rain we saw. What I’m wondering is whether this will transpire into a dryer winter, where the snow is lighter than usual, and possibly a lower base than usual. I haven’t had the opportunity to ski/climb anywhere east of the cascades and thus been accustomed to the cascade crud. I’m wondering what it is like to carve some turns in really dry stuff. In addition to Alex’s thoughts, I’m wondering how non north facing faces (say that five times really fast) will pack. Since the sun is shining on them, whether it is freezing or not during the day, wouldn’t that cause them to ice up and make them more susceptible to slides? If this is the case, I presume that it would take some real wet weather early on here to change this or else we are in for a pretty dangerous season. Am I correct in thinking this? I took a class a few years back but we never got as far as how the pack changes over time. Maybe they could film the sequel to Vertical Limit here this winter! [This message has been edited by jon (edited 11-15-2000).]

Snow man (get it, snowman), you a serious insomniac. As far as Titanic is concerned, I haven't seen the movie, and plan on being one of the few people in free world to do so. I saw my first TV commercial for VL last night and it was the stupidest thing I have ever seen. Granted, people who don’t climb probably don’t realize this, but the last thing they show is this guy leaping of a ledge across to this huge pillar while falling a few hundred feet, only to catch himself with his lone ice tool. Obviously the director saw the Matrix (which I liked). Hollywood rarely makes movies that are accurate to what they are portraying. Oh yeah, I still haven’t been able to find one of those bolt/piton guns they had in Cliffhanger. I wonder if those will be covered in the wilderness bolting ban?

For Bar: Sportspharma Promax Bars. They are the best in taste and energy that I have ever used, and I have tried almost all of them. They have 20 grams of protein, enough to launch you to the moon. Get them at Trader Joe’s for 99 cents, anywhere else your paying $1.60 minimum. Don’t bother with the other bars. For Drink: Cytomax. It comes in powder in cans or packets. You can mix to your liking which is really nice. It tastes good, isn’t loaded with simple sugars, and is the one I’m most happy with. Supposedly there is a component (alpha-L-polylactate for you chemistry guys) which is supposed to buffer your lactic acid level in the blood, but there is really no good evidence for this. I have found Performance Bike Shop has the best prices. For Gel: GU. I don’t use gels very often, only when I’m biking, and I haven't bonked using this one. -Jon intensity@cascadeclimbers.com

The intension of my post was to inform people of a good way help their knees out. It’s sounds like Snow’s experiences parallel mine in curing the problem. Apparently though, this has turned into the “what’s best” argument. Obviously I will post my opinion. Well I agree that biking is a great way to get in shape (I prefer mountain biking), I disagree that it is the best thing next to actual climbing for getting into climbing shape, sorry Snow. The same muscles are used, but at different intensities, movement ranges, frequencies, duration, and load. Biking works isolated muscles groups, while climbing tends to works all the muscles in the legs and lower torso. I think biking is one of the top training tools, but I wouldn’t just rely on that and the occasional training hike. So what do you do then? I’ve very recently become a firm believer in aggressive cross training. Yeah, Bo Jackson’s commercials were cool and all, but I always had trained focused on the sport I was doing at the time. The revelation came four months ago when I started swimming to try to cure a persistent back problem. I hurt it a long time ago trying to play college football. I have seen five sports medicine doctors since the injury, having X-rays and MRIs done, and not a single one could tell me what was wrong. Their prescription, sit-ups and stretching. I was really taken back that was all they recommended. The tightness in my back was so bad that I had to start having message done to relieve the pain and tightness. The woman I go to for massage is a triathlete and recommended that I start swimming to loosen up my back. My first impression, “yeah right”. My mom tried to get me to do swim team when I was younger, but I refused because I didn’t want to run around in one of those little suits. Eventually I gave into the swimming idea, though not the suit, and the results are amazing. My back no longer hurts, not one bit. I had lived with that pain for so long, and to not to have it anymore is incredible. But there was one more benefit that I eventually realized. I train with a heart rate monitor when I bike or run. It allows me to train where it is the most beneficial, allows me to monitor my progress, and tells me when I need some rest. Awhile after I started swimming, I noticed that the heart rate where my legs really start to get taxed, called the lactate threshold, was going down significantly (down 15 beats/min). This is when I started to develop my theory. When you are participating in an activity, whether you are climbing or training, there is always a limiting factor. Of the three systems, the cardiovascular, muscular, and energy producing (mitochondria/ATP), typically it is your cardiovascular that is the weak link. Normally when you are working out, you cardio and muscles are working at relatively the same intensities, and usually develop at the same rate. By cross training, you are constantly conditioning you cardiovascular while working aerobically (and anaerobically) muscles specific to the activity you’re doing. By doing this, as the theory goes, you strengthen you heart at a greater rate than the muscles if you were doing a single activity. It allows you to work certain muscles while the others are resting. You can lift weights to give your heart a slight break as well. One of the biggest advantages is it allows you to really work you muscles hard without taxing your heart. I think this is especially important when you are doing an specific activity for over an hour, whether it is biking or difficult hiking, because your heart and lungs are able to provide oxygen to hard working muscles, while removing lactic acid, enabling you to go longer/harder without the worry of damaging the muscles from too much lactic build up, the result of muscles not getting enough oxygen. This allows you muscles to recover and develop quicker. So what does swimming and all this mumbo jumbo have to do with climbing. Well, I used swimming as an example from personal experience, but the benefits of cross training have all to do with climbing. If you are serious about an activity like climbing or whatever you choose, I truly believe cross training is the key to unlocking your full potential, whether it is a marathon peak knockoff, climbing 5.12, or just making a summit that has previously eluded you. It also prevents you from burning out, which if anyone has been unfortunate enough to have this happen to them, really sucks and effects more in your life than just exercise. So there is my theory, ready to be torn apart by everyone. Courteney, I’d like to hear what your thoughts are, whether I’m completely insane or should write a book. -Jon intensity@cascadeclimbers.com “Oh lord, please let the white stuff fall from the sky so I can ski the freshies.”

I've got two goood exercises. One of them is like what Court mentioned about verticle dowels, but using towels that are wrapped with athletic tape instead and doing pullups. By doing this you can change the circumference of the grip to introduce a little variety and difficulty. The other, which a friend did when he was a pole vaulter was taking a large dowel, attaching a rope to one end, and putting a bucket (or some type of weight) at the other end. Then on a deck or from somewhere high with the bucket hanging at the bottom, twist the dowel using your forearms to roll up the rope and raise the weight over the distance. I did this a few times, and it really taxes your arms. -Jon

Please check out the Access Section of the site to read more about this important group. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/access/access.htm -Jon intensity@cascadeclimbers.com

This article appeared in the Times this weekend, it goes into more depth. This isn't the only place this is happening or has been tried. There is a resort currently in the works in Cle Elum by the same company that developed Sun River in Bend, Or. Golf for everyone! Here's the link for the Times http://seattletimes.nw source.com/cgi-bin/WebObjects/SeattleTimes.woa/wa/gotoArticle?zsection_id=268448480&text_only=0&slug=rain29m&document_id=134242942 Current Opposition for this? I'm still looking but here are some links. If anyone finds anything PLEASE email us. For those of us who like to go to Rainier besides eat hotdogs and step on wildflowers, it's very important that we are heard. I can see this getting so bad that the road to Paradise is closed to cars, only shuttles. Police dogs with armed rangers on trails? God help us. http://www.1000friends.org/ "Support Tahoma Audubon Society in its pursuit of a reason- ably-scaled resort that is compatible with the National Park and the surrounding environment." "Local Contact: Kirk Kirkland,Tahoma Audubon Society, (253) 565-9278" -Jon intensity@cascadeclimbers.com [This message has been edited by jon (edited 10-29-2000).]

I definately hear you Snow. Being able to upload the pictures through the browser will be the ultimate goal for posting on the bb. Writing a script to upload the pictures shouldn't be terribly hard to do, though I'm saying this before I have started hacking the PERL and trying to integrate it. For the time being we will set up an email address for this. Another option is anonymous ftp, but web is better. I'm still interested in having a photo gallery, where people can show off their photos and a short narrative. Tell me your thoughts and who is interested. Peace, Jon -intensity@cascadeclimbers.com

Snow and Friends- I’m working right now on a new section for photos, maybe I’ll call it the photo gallery J (Dr. Evil’s pinky to mouth). The idea would be to allow people to send in, or hopefully post pictures (obviously they must be appropriate, no Britney Spears photos) with a little story behind it. The one thing that is lacking on the site, which I’m sure everyone has noticed, is the lack of pictures. This isn’t intentional, just there is only so much time to work on the site, and pictures are hard to incorporate and still make the site look cool. The new site design I’m working will definitely include lots of killer photos. The more to distract people at work, right?! If anyone has input on this idea, you know what to do. The news section will take some time to mature. We are still working on establishing contacts to help us get info where we can post current news relative to us. This is just going to take some time. And as you pointed out, as the following grows, we will have more opportunities to work from. If anyone knows people who would be good contacts for climbing news, that may be willing to help, throw us a message. As far as advertising is concerned, we are being very careful about how we approach that idea. I’ve received a few emails already asking us to post what are essentially advertisement for them. One that I found especially funny was this movie shop owner who wanted us to link to his page where he was selling a Hillary/Everest movie. When I scrolled to the bottom of the page there were links to every kind of porn that your could/couldn’t imagine. Obviously we didn’t link to him, and no I didn’t buy anything. Depending on where the site goes and how people react to the idea, advertising might be an option to keep the site going. Good hosting isn’t free, especially if traffic keeps increasing, and some of the stuff we want to do will cost some money. I’d be interested in hearing what the opposition to this idea would be, or for that matter, any comments whatsoever. I’d just like to thank everyone who has taken the time to participate in the forums. It means a lot to us that people are using and enjoying the site. I’d especially like to thank all the people who have written in to say hi and tell us how much they like the site. Our inboxes have been flooding with mail, and I spend many o’ nights trying to reply to everyone. Tim and I are really excited with how things are going. Anyways, thanks…. -Jon intensity@cascadeclimbers.com

Hey Y’all- I was tossing the idea around of putting together a section for the UW rock and the Marymoor walls. The idea was to put up an online route guide with pictures of the faces with ratings. I’ve already found a person who has put some of the Marymoor stuff on the web, but I hoping to create something a little more in depth. I’ve seen a guide to UW rock, and rumor is that Jeff Smoot once in a while sells a guide there once in a while. Could anyone who knows about these guides reply, as well as people’s ideas on creating this section. Thanks. -Jon intensity@cascadeclimbers.com

I thought I’d pass on some tips for people who are having knee and/or ankle problems. I have found that cycling is a really effective way to build knee and ankle strength. This is actually a clinically tested fact. I’m a pretty avid mountain biker, and when not on the trail or road, I’ll ride a bike at the gym. It is low impact, but you can get an incredibly good cardiovascular workout and build really strong legs. I have had both knee and ankle injuries. When I was younger I had what is called Osgood-Schlatter Disease, which is where basically where your muscles develop quicker than your tendons, and start tearing away from the tibia. Though my knees are much better now, they still can hurt after a hard climb or playing soccer. I’ve also managed to sprain my ankle more times than I would like to admit from playing soccer and basketball. In cycling, the leg motion is centered on your knee, and although it is highly repetitive, the lateral and impact stresses are minimal, therefore gradually building up the tendons instead of overstressing them to where they are inflamed and struggle to recover.* Though the ankle doesn’t see as much movement, the down-pressure, especially out of the saddle, can really strengthen the ankle in all directions. I can not only feel, but actually see the difference in my ankles and knees because of this. I have found that I’m much less prone to pain now when I hike and climb, and this isn’t from being in better shape. I also haven’t rolled my ankle in a long time. Obviously, riding a bike is not a substitute for doing training hikes or the Stairmaster, but for people with weak knees and ankles it can really strengthen your tendons while still getting a good workout, and make your outdoor pursuits much more enjoyable. If anyone is interested in learning more about things like proper technique, the benefits of clipless peddles, good training plans, please reply to the post and I will reply with more detailed info. One word of caution, because pedaling isn’t exposing your muscles to a full range of motion like running, it is really important to stretch to keep from losing flexibility. *For those interested, a little science about inflammation. When you get inflammation in a joint, your body releases various hormones that trigger the production of destructive enzymes called metalloproteases, which, while breaking down the injured connective tissues for repair, can also destroy health tissue and cartilage if inflammation persists. A similar process happens in muscles. When you have a chronic injury and inflammation like what Patrick might have been suffering from in a previous post, your body is essentially fighting itself, breaking down while trying to rebuild at the same time. It’s like building a new skyrise while the wrecking ball is still swinging around from the old building. Your body also recruits immune cells, which get activated at sites of inflammation, release hormones, and do their own destructive tasks. A good example is the various forms of arthritis (typically caused by auto-immune response), as well as periodontitis (immune response to bacterial endotoxins in the gums). If you have a chronic injury, it is advisable to see a doctor to determine the extent of the injury. If you don’t feel like seeing a doctor, things like aspirin and benadryl can help suppress the immune response and lower the amount of inflammation, allowing the body to heal with proper rest.

I think there has been a good point raised, though thinking more broadly the future and policies of outdoor recreation will take a larger brunt of the impact then just the climbing community. Obviously one person here has a very strong view of the presidential race, not to say I disagree, but there are things at stake here. I also think the presidential race is not the only one to be concerned with. In Washington State we have an important decision between Cantwell and Gordon for Congress. They will be the one protecting (or not) our forests and public lands. I'd be interested in hearing what people know about each of these people in concerns to public land issues like acceptable forms of outdoor recreation in national parks, logging policies, views on the wilderness bolting issue that is before some appointed committee, user fees, etc. It would be nice to keep who your voting for out of the discussion, and keep things more along the lines of known facts, like voting records, interviews and such.

I’ve had the windshirt for about a year now. I haven’t had any problems in wet weather, though I can say I haven’t been in a torrential downpore and busting my butt with it. There are really many great things about it; it’s not just a $100 sweatshirt. 1) It has a very broad comfort range and moves moisture away from the body very quickly. I sweat like crazy, and I have yet to be soaked in this thing after a hard hike or when I’m working out, let alone slightly damp. It’s pretty amazing. I wore this thing a lot skiing last year, where you typically go from hot to cold quickly, and I think I was the most comfortable I have ever been. 2) It is just plain comfortable. The DriClimb fabric is so soft on your skin you will wear it everywhere. I wear it a lot with just a T-shirt, only putting on a thermal top when it is really cold. 3) Pretty good wind (actually excellent) and water resistance. I’ve been caught biking in the rain with this thing many times and it manages to stay dry and keep you warm. Light rain it will hold its own. 4) When your wearing your rain jacket, it is amazing how unrestricted your movement is because the nylon slides around, as apposed to fleece which almost sticks to the inner of the jacket. When I first put on my jacket on over the windshirt I was seriously in shock how different it felt. It was like I didn’t have the jacket on because my movement was so effortless compared to fleece. 5) Last but not least, it is fuggin light. Very light (10 oz.), very packable (softball size). Don’t leave home without it light. The bad, well maybe: Over the past years I have become pretty good at staying dry in bad conditions. It’s a combination of better gear, better understanding of how my body works, and experience. Saying that, I’m not sure I would like to be wearing the windshirt soaking wet, or in a situation where I could be very quickly. I haven’t been in that situation yet, but considering the fabric involved, I wouldn’t go on a trip where it is replacing my fleece jacket when I know the weather is going to be foul. Ok, so that is my review. I don’t want to sound like I work for Marmot, but this thing rocks. I think it has been out for almost ten years now, and the mag reviews I’ve read have had nothing bad to say about it. Go to your shop, try it on with a T-shirt, put a jacket over it, move around and see for youself. You cannot go wrong.

I like snowleopards picks, here’s some of my love/hates: Love: Marmot DriClimb Windshirt: This is the most incredible piece of clothing I have ever owned. KAVU: Coolest company in the Northwest. Slide Film: Print film is getting better, but you can’t beat the color saturation of slide. North Face outlet in Bend, OR.: Ok, I’m not huge fan of TNF gear, but the prices in this store is are ridiculously low. Hates: Trail Fees: Don’t we pay this thing called taxes? Disposable Cameras: I have to disagree with snowleopard on this one. They work some of the time, but that’s the problem. Lexus & BMW SUV’s: Enough said. MountainZone: I agree with snowleopard, the Quokka Sports Immersion just isn’t doing it for me.