LostCamKenny

are you speaking of the gully with the tree frozen in place in it? The ice above that tree looked thin and scary to us and no one wanted to lead it, but we never tried the gully because it looked like slogging to get up to anywhere. who wants to do that when there is ice right in front of you, eh?

well, even if it wasn't done by the old codger with the hobnailed boots in '55, it was done about a week ago by spionin et. all, and the week before that i was on it with two other buds.. but i agree - it was in pretty good condition when we were there and hopefully it'll get better. how did the slabby flow look? thick?

epic!

It's actually more like... "The new program yielded $7.2 million in total sales its first four months. Sales were projected at $65 million ($54 million for State Parks) over the course of the current 24-month budget cycle, which runs through June 30, 2013." (according to the document posted) The verbage used tells you all you need to know about how the state views the operations of our public lands... "The goal is to keep customer service in place in order to continue building Discover Pass sales, while the agency also works on a longer-term shift to a new business model reliant upon new revenue sources, partnerships and marketing." Since when did our public lands become a "business"? If they don't have enough money to keep the parks open why are they attempting to encourage more people to use them? Why does the public need to be "sold" anything? The parks dept. is now in the "business" of convincing me I need to give them more money so they can afford to "market" our public lands back to us? None of this makes any sense and I'm sorry but I'm not going to shed a tear about the fact that the "Discover Pass" idea didn't quite pan out the way they were hoping. As far as I'm concerned they've squandered enough money trying to "upgrade" trail heads and add services that were not needed. Now they can figure out how to do with less. Just like everyone else. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1042713/TR_Horsethief_Butte#Post1042713 Well said, Kirk... they are now making the public pay to use their own resources. The parks haven't ever charged for day use fees before and taking their management funding off the general fund is a clear indication that there is no intention of ever getting it back there - once they start to charge you for something they won't ever take it away, especially if you've agreed to pay it once: they will only increase it! This is what is happening now, and mark my words: the Discover Pass will increase in price after 2013. The WSPs are actually hurting their customer service with this move. By cutting jobs at the field-levels(rangers, park aides, park office assistants, etc..) the customer service is going to get worse, not better just because they are able to keep the park open. I hate always using it as an example, but Beacon is a pretty big park and if it is going to be maintained by two full-time, year round employees i guarantee that the quality of service is going to go waaaaay down and in turn the usership of the park will decrease. And that will lead to the park closing due to lessened use. [And Kevin, even if it was in jest, that is the dumbest thing you could have added to this conversation!]

In the up coming year, park managers will be allowed to hire two 5-month seasonal "rangers" with "limited authority." They will mainly be enforcement for the Discover Pass - basically the state parks will have a corps of meter maids for the spring/summer months. This probably doesn't answer your question but it does give a sense of how highly the Washington State Park system values the rangers below the park managers, and also what the WSP figures those rangers worth to be. Too bad! Seems to me that they cut from the wrong end of the management totem pole - can't run the parks without the little people!

I do not believe this belongs in spray, but it isn't necessarily directly climbing related. So Mods, please repost wherever it seems this would be appropriate. Washington State Parks solution to keep parks open The state parks, in general, will no longer have the staffing they have been used to in the past. Many people will be losing their jobs as a result of this new action, and this means that park services will lack in coming years. There are a some parks with climbing and these will be the parks impacted most to climbers, but overall this is terrible news! If anyone cares at all about the state parks, and in particular state parks with climbing, it would behoove them to write to: Bruce Chandler Rep. Bruce Chandler's contact information can also be found here 427B Legislative Building P.O. Box 40600 Olympia, WA 98504-0600 (360) 786-7960 Toll-free: (800) 562-6000

goin up thru the pearly gates is no longer easy. besides, even on the south side, the rule still holds true: the summit is optional; the car is not! sorry i couldn't join you, ben! nice work!

Climbing? Naw I gave it up for a healthier habit like slamming heroin in my forehead well played, sir...!

nice report, cornhusker... thanks!

HEY SOBO.... What time is it?

I call Kyle "Silverman" and I have pretty much since i met him. geoff has always been "counselor" to me, or geoff, but i never use "Silverman" to address him - just kyle. i think geoff might call kyle "junior" but one would have to ask geoff to confirm this. since i'm on the topic, here's a few more - for those on cc.com i will address them by their avatars: ivan - "white boy" timetraveller - "steve-o" miker - "mikeerrr" (roll those Rs) Denali Dave - "DD" (although he is rarely, if ever, that!) 112 - (formerly)"WallaWallaKen" LuckyLarry - "Lash" King Beatard - "Adumb" pink - "Mr. Pink" Jim O - "Jim" jeff thomas - "JT" billcoe - "billy badass"(never to his face) or "billcoe"(rhymes with Wilco) DaveLeo - "Dave with no name" kevbone - just add an "r" Adam B - "Dr. Gonzo" Pacman - "steve-o the 2nd" Dan C - "sporto" Justinp - "JP" and of course: plaidman - "scotch petershun"

thanks kevin! keep em comin!!!

huh... so if a park closes does that then mean there will be no one there working?

doesn't look like it's slowed you down too much, ken... ya looked good today. and just think - you ditched a little weight by having that thing removed, so now you're even more alpine ready great to see ya out!

Outstanding response!!!

not entirely sure i woulda wanted to be on that pitch either, steve-o. kelton and i went all the way up the corner, slipping here and there, but i rather enjoyed it - as did kelton.

have some honor and call it what it was - an attempt.

selling out is becoming the rule, rather than the exception, any more... if there is a way to make [more] money at doing something - anything - then it is desirable to pursue it to that end. take music for example: great musicians love their art and want to perform it however they can. this usually pays them modestly unless they have some sort of big record contract or start making ghey music videos. why shouldn't great climbers be able to take advantage of their skill and accomplishments to make a little extra $$$?

...

N, looks like you did all the leading. did your worthless partner share in any of the work or was it you dragging him up the mountain? tell me he at least melted snow, made dinner or pitched the tent, or something...

uggg... close-ups of the rock make me want to climb there less and less... but as long as someone is having fun out there then that is all that matters i guess. silverboy does take some cool pics, though, especially when he isn't trying to shoot the shot with the camera in his ass.

good on ya scotty! now, keep shaving that rack down bit by bit for free climbing and you'll be "cruising the southeast warrior"(the best variation of the corner, imo) in no time

ok, so your original post should then read like so: "I, JOSEPH HEALY, SAY OF MY OWN LIFE AND CLIMBING EXPERIENCE, PLEASE DO NOT TRY TO APPROACH THE TOP OF ROUTES FROM THE ROAD / UPPER TRAIL - YES, THERE ARE SOME SLINGS ON TREES VISIBLE FROM THE TRAIL UP BY THE ROAD, BUT IT IS MY OPINION THAT BY AND LARGE THEY ARE REMNANTS OF THE ORIGINAL DEVELOPMENT AND NOT TOP ROPES. IN GENERAL THERE ARE NO CLIFFTOP-ACCESSIBLE TOP ROPES AT DZ/FS AND THE ENTIRE AREA AT THE TOP OF THE CLIFF IS EXCEEDINGLY DANGEROUS TO APPROACH FROM ABOVE IF YOU AREN'T A VERY EXPERIENCED CLIMBER AND EVEN THEN YOU SHOULD THINK TWICE ABOUT IT AND WHY YOU ARE ATTEMPTING TO DO IT, IN MY OWN OPINION OF COURSE. AGAIN, PLEASE TAKE THE TRAIL DOWN AND BE AWARE THIS ISN'T AN AREA WHERE YOU CAN SET UP TOP ROPES FROM ABOVE AND THERE ARE ONLY A COUPLE OF COMPLETELY BOLTED ROUTES. IF YOU ARE RELATIVELY NEW TO CLIMBING, TO CLIMBING OUTDOORS, OR TO LEADING YOU SHOULD ARRANGE TO COME WITH AN EXPERIENCED CLIMBER WHO CAN LEAD ROUTES AND ESTABLISH TOP ROPES IF SO DESIRED OR CONSIDER AN ALTERNATIVE VENUE, IN MY OWN OPINION, OF COURSE." btw, have you found any more clay pots breaking at the tops of yer favorite climbs?

you have no idea what the spirit is, joe. all you are doing is jacking. you're no climber.

oh joe, you big stud you... aren't you supposed to be out checking the falcon's cloacal temperature or something? don't you work? can't you find anything better to do besides try to play rock police in your spare time? i mean seriously... you stay up at all hours playing on your computer, posting BS and other nonsense and then when you finally do have a point with which i could agree, you take it to a limit that still makes me want to curb you! do you enjoy being that much of an asshole or is that just yer genes? i have tried for several years to think that you actually have a heart and a brain, but perhaps you should just join dorothy, the cowardly lion, the scarecrow, and the tin man, and go get what they are gettin, cause you really need an adjustment in life. of course, the sad truth here is that you are an old fart, set in your ways, and resistant to change and an opinion that might differ from your own. the really sad part of it is that you are trying to take others down to this level by doing what you did with this post. your negativity is something that no climber in their right mind would ever put in a stone's-throwing distance of themselves. the point of climbing for many of us is to bring ourselves up to the level of the climb - to learn something, to experience something bigger - but you want to bring everything down and discourage the growth and education that comes from venturing out into the unknown. why can't you just mind yer own business and let those who want to explore and experience do just that? learn by doing is the best way; learn from experience - ONE'S OWN EXPERIENCE, not your experience posted up here for everyone to read and then say to themselves, "oh this guy must really know what he's talking about to put it on an internet message board - i think i'll listen to him..." your experience is not what the world needs to be saved so maybe you should have someone take the nails out of your hands and feet and come on down to earth and live like the rest of us. if an accident is going to happen out there, or anywhere for that matter, there is nothing - if anything - that you will be able to do about it. i've heard the stories of your solo to rescue some folks (was it in utah or red rocks?) and that is both bold and selfless - two traits that i would never have pinned on you with the way you type on this message board - and are the fibers of a true climber. why can't you show those colors all the time instead of your bureaucratic, must-look-as-official-as-possible-for-the-public-and-all-others-who-may-see-you attitude? you might be able to climb some difficult rock , but you are far from a true climber! and while i am at it, bill, i understand you are a great guy and you got that way by being level-headed and open-minded. but why do you let JH just get on with this shit the way he does? i mean, really... in private when we are all conspiring against the world and setting our plans to control and dominate the human race, everyone agrees that JH is misguided and shouldn't be allowed to be a spokesperson for anything (JO has many times told me how much he regrets telling JH what needed to be done and what to do b/c JH has taken it to a place that JO never thought it would get to), and here there is lots of support and lots of opposition for a silly post that JH put up about a place that is silly itself, for the silly reason of appearing to be the experience of the place. this isn't just directed at you bill, btw, but to all those who will agree w/JH to his face and then behind his back agree that he is misguided and needs to be checked. everyone here (who has anything to do with climbing in this area) that has a problem with JH should be stepping up and voicing it, not hiding it because they want to secure a belayer or falsely call him a friend. i'm not against being a friend to someone, but when there is no effort on the other party's part to put themselves in my stinky shoes then they aren't worth any of my trouble... and that goes for every fuckin last one of you reading this! what i am saying directly to you, bill, is that i absolutely cannot stand how you will agree with me that certain things JH says, types, or does are not acceptable, and then you help to defend him here on the message board without even a little bit of defense for what is really being talked about. who's side are you on, anyway? seriously. you are a wonderful friend and i value your opinion and friendship very much or i wouldn't bother with telling you all this BS - especially on an open forum. we all know that JH is a pile of BS, nonsense, and whimsical climbing experience so why do we let him stand out as if he speaks for our entire community. JH's voice is heard because he is loud on the internet. climbing does not occur on the internet, though, unfortunately for JH, so it is time to actually step forward and speak out against the BS of JH. ok joe, go ahead... hack this up into little pieces, defend your "honor" by revealing to everyone else here how stupid i am and how nothing i say or do makes any sense at all. you are going to write something that sounds really good and reads pretty well and, on the surface, looks pretty valid, but lost in all your response bullshit will lie the fact that you are such an asshole that you have to respond to make yourself look better in any way that you are able. go for it - i know you are full of it, and so do tons of others, whether they will admit it or do the chickenshit thing and shine in your face and then talk your pitfalls behind your back. go ahead and respond to this because you'll show that i am right when you do. c'mon, i dare ya. fucking nancy!