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About Lodestone

  • Birthday 11/30/1870

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  1. That is great news. So is it looking like Madrone is going to have a seasonal bird closure? I'm not on facebook but would really like to stay in the loop on any upcoming trail days. Thanks Kellie Chad
  2. Looks like it could be a fun place. I'd like to check it out. Is it on public land? Chad
  3. Hey, at least you got to climb in Yosemite. Was there for the first time a month ago and it was raining the whole time. Anyway, glad you're getting out! Didn't want to ask anymore "how's your shoulder" because it never seemed to get better. Would love to hit up the traversing wall at RB with you...if you can still handle 5.7.
  4. Yes! Fantastic news. Thank you Kellie for your hard work, and for the work ahead. Chad
  5. I guess I don't understand the distinction of grading things on an onsight vs redpoint. Yes, when I'm attempting to onsight a climb it often feels harder but I'm cognizant of this and can still categorize the climb relative to other climbs in the area. For me, Rolling Thunder is easier than House of Pain, Vicious and Chainmail but harder than Screaming For Change, There & Back Again, and Orion. Therefore (in my mind) it's about a 5.10d. Chad
  6. Birds of Paradise, Blackberry Jam, Toothpick, Crack Warrior, Phylynx, and Fandango are all excellent climbs. Chad
  7. That's it. Is this the name of a climb? i'm assuming he's talkin bou these things kevbone http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=janky
  8. Presumably the same person added a bolt to the left variation start to P1 of Hanging Gardens as well as to Giant's Staircase. Both of these bolts were placed near naturally protectable sections of the respective climbs. Same Climb X hangers, same steel studs and the same time-frame. Both of these bolts were removed by a local climber. Of the four new bolts leading up to the base of Sesame Street, I removed the highest one (old hole is puttied up). This one was placed within a yard (horizontally) of a large nut placement that would stop a train. Though I don't agree with any of these bolts being placed on a classic, established line, it didn't seem right to remove them all until getting more feedback. While up there, I replaced the anchor at the base of Sesame Street with a pair of SS Fixe double-ring hangers. The old anchor was looking pretty junky/rusty. Chad
  9. P1 of The Line is the best pitch of climbing I've done. We were down there last month. Chad
  10. I haven't heard back from the seller (but would like to). Chad
  11. Sent you a PM earlier today about the nuts.
  12. I doubt that anyone has lead Big Dipper since the FA. I talked with Micah about the climb and he mentioned that an unknown person put a bolt in it and that it was later chopped. I don't see a good way to protect it but didn't scrutinize it either; too busy grunting and cussing. Chad Not an unknown climber. I drilled the hole (I cleaned the climb and put the anchor in). We top roped it and decided it did not protect well at all. So we drilled the hole. Then at the last second decided not to place it. Then Micha came along and climbed it. He rated it 5.8 at first, where the rest of us top roping it thought more along the lines of 10.c. then he came to a final grade of 10.a which IMO is still very sand bagged. I wish I would have gone ahead and placed the bolt. Nobody climbs it because there is NO protection from hitting the ground if you screw it up. Oh well. Thanks for clarifying things Kevin. So what did he use for protection on the FA, nothing? For what it's worth, Olson has it listed as a 5.11a in the newest PRC book. Chad
  13. Lodestone

    Forum Spam

    What's the point of clicking on the notify button if the spam post is still up after more than a week? http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1107014/Bunny_Costume#Post1107014 and http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1107015/Women_s_Halloween_Costume_Idea#Post1107015 Chad
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