LostCamKenny

i hear ya... having gear pull ain't fun. meself, i have this to prove my experience with the topic. i was aiding, however, and shifted my weight wrong in my etriers, so i bet my experience with gear ripping out is a bit different from yours. still... i just started to get back out on the rock about a month ago and maybe its that i have been aiding a lot, but for me trusting the gear is something that i just stopped thinking about. once i place it i forget about it until it is time to place a another piece. either the gear is gonna work or it isn't. 99 times out of 100 it is going to work (hopefully more than that), but worrying about it is a mental block that you have to overcome. [to quote tibetan philosophy (and 7yrs in tibet), "if a problem can be fixed, then there is no use worrying about it. if it can't be fixed, then worrying will do no good"] its all in your head, is what i figured out. place the gear, clip it, and climb on. if it is that scary a thing for you then just go back to basics - climb the stuff waaaaaaaaaaaay below your level and work back up to where you were when you fell. at some point you are going to notice that you are much stronger, more aware, and more confident than you were before your fall, and thus you will become a better climber. keep at it - don't let it beat ya!

oh and to go along with the thread - .75 of truth - definitely my favo(u)rite!

you look like yer aiding when you are doing the standard se corner hard to be sexy in a kilt, scotty, but i'm sure that R finds it attractive

i knew that might get some attention... please check your PM inboxes and make sure that you are not over your limit. hint, hint if you are in the greater pdx/metro area this applies to YOU! if you are not in this geographic region then this message isn't necessarily meant for you but housekeeping is never a bad thing.

what do you mean "when?" it hardly ever dips below 80 over there (except maybe in the hills).

i'm only aware of one "sheriff joe" 'round these parts...

i'm sure it is taken farrrrrrr out of context, but it is alarming nonetheless, kev....

awesome! which two were you at? there are only three (that i've heard of) in that area... alvord, willow and mickey.

"Grass" is a great documentary about the history of the stuff... narrarated by none other than woody harrelson! great stuff!!!

meh, i see thsoe every day... bet it fought hard, eh? how long it take ya to land it?

if one's beer is gettin warm in one's pack when one is climbing then perhaps one is not climbing fast enough... still, warm rainier beer after a long day is quite satisfying if you have nothing else.

What is this? Have you abandoned the Dfucks and are now an Rfuck? bill is that a joke at the expense of the refucklicans or the defuckyoucrats?

that guy kyle looks like a real dry tool.

whoa! exciting - in the wrong way! glad it don't get more epic than that.

why not just use a clove hitch in the rope that you are already tied into? easily adjustable, dynamic, and you don't need another peice of gear. naw, that would be too easy

this is true... BC gets great deals on ropes that go coreshot at a high rate but let me give my $0.02. the type of rope you should buy depends on the type of climbing you are going to be doing the MOST. if you plan on doing a lot of cragging where you will be doing mostly the "lead up and lower down" then a thicker diameter rope(i.e. 10.2 - 10.5) will be more durable for the abuse of the filthy crags. if you plan on doing a lot of alpine then a thinner diameter rope(9.2 - 9.7) will be a lot lighter than the burly 10's. another thing to think about with respect to the thinner cords is if you think you won't be falling as much then they can be good for cragging. i wouldn't use a thinner diameter rope if i knew i was going to be falling on it a bunch, but they are lighter for alpine use. i'd say that the rope you want is a 10.2 and probably at least a dry sheath. shop around and get lots of opinions though. don't just take my word for it!

god forbid that the next crop of teenieboppers can text test answers back and forth to each other in their classes...

don't go into the bars in downtown portland - you might get shanghi'ed!

SAFARI... GO MAC!

oh fuk that was funny... so funny i had to watch it again today and make a comment on it

slabs = cool! nice job on the onsight, sloth!

sleeping with a harness on is uncomfortable and also inconvenient in the middle of the night should one have to take a dump. i instructed KB on this and produced for him an alternative to sleeping with the full rig on, which he took to pretty quickly

it won't be the same without cha around but glad you're goin home. don't be a fucking stranger - send up a smoke signal once in a while and let us know that pink didn't leave you on a climb to save his own arse

OMFG ken that is so funny by the way, i have a rope of yours - if you want it back just let me know so i can take it out to the gorge with me...