davidk

Velcro= not waterproof TIZIP= waterproof. If my Phantom Lites had a velcro closure, the multiple times I have punched through frozen streams on an approach would have meant walking straight back to the car with cold toes and no climbing for the day.

I have the original model Phantom Lites like Fern, but haven't had any issues with my TIZIP zipper after ~two dozen days on ice. (But now I'm a little worried...) I just zip carefully and deliberately, and never have a problem. Dane, I've been using step-in Cyborgs on my Phantom Lites and have the same issues with the toe piece shifting off-center. I just adjust mine for a super tight fit, which requires some extra grunt to put on, but can never get them lined up for that perfect fit. I agree with you that the lower profile toes on boot soles are advantageous, so a "Scarpa toe-bail" from BD or Petzel would be welcome.

Thanks for sharing! What a stunning place. Can't wait for part 2...

As Coldfinger pointed out, when putting a belay jacket on over shell layers it can be easy to get the puffy wet from the inside out. I've had multiple instances when after a wet ice pitch I have pulled on my synthetic parka over my wet or iced-up shell. Most lining fabrics are not water resistant (or not to the extent) like the shell fabric, so any moisture on your shell can quickly enter the insulation. Not an issue with synthetic insulation. I am also a fan of the safety/redundancy afforded by carrying a down sleeping bag and a synthetic puffy.

I think one of the primary functions of the spike on the new pommel is to make "quieter" placements in ice, ie. after you sink the pick and weight the tool so the pommel rests against the ice, the bottom of the tool has increased resistance to swinging side-to-side.

It's important to remember that the BDdry membrane (and most glove waterproofing systems) are liners, and therefore the performance of the membrane will be greatly affected by the outer layer of the glove. Common construction is fleece+insulation lining inside PTFE membrane glove inside the outer leather/softshell/nylon. It's just like with a rain jacket: the breathability of the membrane will be cut in half (minimum) if the outer shell fabric wets out. This is why it is important to maintain a DWR on the outer fabric. If your glove shells get soaking wet, then a breathable membrane inside won't be able to move much moisture, and your gloves will get wet on the inside from sweat. My old BD Patrol gloves would get soaked from sweat after a day of skiing: BDdry liner inside mostly leather shells. But my BD Punishers stay a lot drier: BDdry inside breathable softshell outers. But with both, I could probably stick my hand in a bucket of cold water and not feel it rushing in.

Feathered Friends has the Prime

Rab Latok for leading moderates or in cold conditions. $55 from 2nd Ascent last year (call them now to get a pair - they get a limited shipment and sell out) BD Punisher for really cold leading, and general belaying/rapping (got these on closeout last year, haven't actually climbed on them yet.) ***Favorite glove for ice:*** BD Impulse. Thin leather palm, softshell back with hi-loft fleece lining, padded/articulated fingers, long cuff with velcro. Best fitting glove I've ever worn, and my favorite to bust out for a hard lead. Supreme dexterity, and warm enough - just treat the palms liberally with snoseal. This glove is part of BD's ski glove line, so not many climbers use it. Their new Arc glove looks awesome, and will probably end up being one of the top gloves on the market for leading ice. I tried a pair on, and they're pretty sweet.

The Trango Evo S will end up feeling too soft, and when you tighten the binding on your hybrid Sabretooths to prevent them from slipping on harder ice and mixed, the toe cap on your boots might collapse. This is uncomfortable and cold. I started ice climbing in Scarpa Charmoz boots (equivalent to the Trango S), and they worked, but after climbing in a rigid, insulated ice boot (Scarpa Phantom Light), the difference is clear. From the Sportiva line, the Trango Prime, Trango Extreme, or Batura Evo are much more suited to ice and mixed.

Great TR Kevin, thanks for doing the writeup. Maybe we can beat last year's Oct. 10th record...

3 months 'till ice season!!!

If you own a Subaru and live anywhere close to Kirkland, I highly recommend All Wheel Drive Auto for service. I recently started taking my beloved Subi to AWD Auto after my neighbor suggested them, and I couldn't be happier with their service and friendliness. Example: I needed a new driver's side window switch module. Went in one morning last week, and the guy said "sure thing, I can have it here by 3pm." I got a call at 2:40 and the part was in. I picked it up, and they came out to my car and showed me how to remove my door panel so I could install it myself. This week, after leaving Stone Gardens via the potholed mess that is their back parking lot, I started hearing a loud metallic rattling under my car. Went back to AWD Auto today, where they looked at my car immediately. In under an hour they had tightened up the exhaust heat shields and investigated a couple other noises it was making, and cleared the engine codes that had lit-up my check engine light. All while I chatted with the front desk employee about his modified Outback and Subaru off-roading adventures. Then the mechanic handed me the keys, and they told me the service was complementary*. Next time I need to drop some major $$$ on repairs, I'm going back to All Wheel Drive Auto . *results might not be typical, but these guys are truly helpful and will treat you and your car right. No BS, no hard sell, no sleaze.

Marmot Resole Service has done a great job on two pair of Mythos for me, and turn around was 1-2 weeks each time. You can print the form off their website and ship to Berkeley

Nice shot - brocken spectres are rad, and a pretty rare sight

Wow, impressive!

works just fine for me

Bingo

Shoveling out the penguin shit and holding the other end of the measuring tape are both "helping with scientific tasks" and those are the kinds of helping you will be doing. The scientists will do all the fun stuff (like shooting laser beams, opening dimensional portals, and blowing stuff up) themselves. I didn't figure the assisting would be difficult, it just seems to me that if you hire someone to ensure group logistics run smoothly and to keep people safe, that you would leave them to those vital tasks and not have them cleaning the glassware. It would be like hiring a guide and then asking them to do your math homework while they were supposed to be belaying you. G-Spotter makes some excellent points. Because the "guiding work" involved is not particularly taxing, the guide ends up serving as the camp bitch: lead, organize, pack, fix, and generally "assist". Which sure as hell would involve more digging than you've ever imagined. Only those with strong backs and strong will need apply. And this position would definitely involve extended deployments with remote camps. Time=money in Antarctica, maybe more so than anywhere else. I've done six weeks down there as a science field assistant. Had one day off during that time, and have never worked harder in my life, nor lived so primitively for so long . Coolest thing I've ever done though.

I second this recommendation - Kurt's info is as good a place to start as any. Quick, easy answers aren't common on this board

I started climbing ice with Sabertooths, and they work great. Have used them in the alpine, and again they worked great. But if they were my only crampon, I'd have to replace them too often for my budget if I wanted to keep them sharp (mine aren't the stainless ones, if that matters). So I started looking for a pair of Cyborgs, and landed a pair of last years at a price that couldn't be beat. Now I can thrash the Cyborgs at the crags on mixed and ice, file the front points with impunity, and replace the four points when the time comes for only minor $$. And I still have my Sabertooths fresh and ready for mountain routes. Now, if only I had the cash to do the BD Neve-Sabertooth hybrid crampon...

Thanks! Mean Green was really hooked out, but it was super fun to just cruise on the first 3 pitches. Kinda nice after having to earn EVERY stick on Cabin Fever.

Troy's new HD Wide Hero helmet cam turned out to be a pretty neat toy. Here's the result of my first video editing foray: [video:vimeo]9709118 This was such a great trip - sooo much mileage on super classic Cody routes. Thanks to my outstanding partners

good thing you guys moved fast, otherwise you would have needed a custom 2-man sleeping bag

No. They go on sale for 20% off at least twice a year at REI though.

Heat shrink tubing isn't very grippy at all, and worse, it's very expensive. I have had good luck with quick-fix plumber's tape (or "rapid-seal" tape, whatever they're calling it these days). It's a self-adhesive, thin rubber tape that bonds to itself over time to create a solid grip that can't unravel. The $9.00 roll that I got from McLendons was enough to do a double rap on the full-length of my Quark shafts. From experimenting, I found that a double rap is necessary, because the single rap is very thin and will end up tearing under its tension (you stretch the tape as you apply it).