davidk

unless something changed in the past year, plenty of people were camping in vehicles in the overnight parking lot last time I was there.

Trip: Chimney Rock - Rappel Chimney Date: 9/13/2012 Trip Report: After a hiatus in 2011 (I had to launch a career sometime...), Kevin and I got back together for yet another September alpine adventure. Plans were hatched, and we trained hard in anticipation. Kevin recently moved to Spokane to start grad school, so we decided to spend a week getting acquainted with the local cragging, head to the Selkirks for some alpine granite, and of course check out the Spokane social scene. On Wednesday we packed up and drove to Sand Point to obtain beta and groceries. We stopped by Mountain Essentials and chatted with Nick, who dispensed useful info and tasty IPA from the tap. The new model for gear shops? Another great resource in Sand Point was the map shop at the end of the block near Mountain Essentials. After a quick stop for a couple pitches at Laclede, we continued on to the maze of forest roads on the east side of Priest Lake. Feeling pretty confident that we were following the directions properly, we inadvertently found our way up a creek without a paddle. The logging road turned improbably steep, narrowed significantly, and was full of deep water bars. After stalling a couple times and attempting to back down, we decided to park (as level as possible), get some sleep, and extract ourselves in the morning. With little difficulty we got ourselves down the road. A friendly logger told us which turns to take, and soon we were at Horton Ridge trailhead. Breakfast of champions. The trail is in great shape and goes by quick. We made good time up to the saddle on Mt. Roothaan, and were greeted with our first views of Chimney Rock. After dropping into the basin and traversing a bit, we were at the base of the West Face. We launched up the classic "Rappel Chimney" route for a proper introduction. Easy ramps to a spacious ledge on the skyline. Kevin getting down to business on pitch 2. Pitch 3 is exposed and all fun. Beware the loose blocks at the top-left of the chimney mid-pitch. Another fantastic belay ledge. Pitch 4 follows the blocky ridge line to the summit. We rapped back to the first belay ledge, and set up a toprope for "Twin Cracks." Kevin and I agreed that this would make a great alternative to the first pitch of "Rappel Chimney." On the way out we scrambled up Mt. Roothaan to take in the scenery. Kevin set up the self-timer for this summit shot, and upon reviewing the result he started laughing and said "we definitely need to re-do that picture!" Still wearing pants: A fun day in the hills on some great rock. This trip definitely re-kindled the stoke for me to get back into the mountains after taking a year off. We were back in Spokane by early evening, and ready to wash away the dust. Kevin chose wisely and is renting in a college neighborhood. As the saying goes: we get older, but they stay the same age! Looking forward to keeping the tradition alive next year! Gear Notes: Double rack to 2", 60m rope, lots of runners to combat rope drag Approach Notes: We used the Horton Ridge approach, which comes in from the west. 1:30 car to crag, with plenty of first-timer lolly-gagging. Last mile of road is steep, rocky, loose, and has very deep water bars. Bring big wheels or plan on walking this section. Many of the road signs are knocked down or flat-out unreadable, thanks to some trigger-happy folks with buckshot and .45

Both of my trips there were in early September. Bugs were all gone, and so were the crowds - had Deep Lake to ourselves in 2010. But it does start getting cold and the weather gets more "animated." Expect temps overnight to be near or below freezing, cold wind, chilly morning starts, and frozen fingers if you're in the shade. We experienced everything from calm, blue-bird 60-degree days to thunderstorms and hail mid-route. In other words, it's the best time of year to go.

:tup: Outstanding TR. Brings back fond memories of the Winds.

I typically wear L-XL (closer to XL, but my thumbs are short). I choose XL for comfort and L for performance. I have sweaty hands. For 2 seasons (10-20 days each, some alpine): Rab Latoks, size Large - snug but perfect fit for leading, outstanding for cold leads, eVent keeps my hands drier than any other glove, they dry quickly between leads in my jacket, and have been quite durable. Gripe: the tacky palm, while great for grip on tools, can stick to screws and biners. In my experience, if you don't rappel with these gloves (duh) the sticky palm lasts. *My go-to glove for cold or wet leads. BD Punishers (previous version), size XL - good fit, but a little loose for leading. My hands sweat a lot in them. I've had good durability. *My go-to belay glove. BD Impulse, size XL - perfect fit, thin leather-only palm, high loft fleece back for insulation = warmth for mild days on hard leads, outstanding dexterity. Not waterproof, but adequate if kept in jacket and only used for leading. *My favorite lead glove. The Rab M14 is similar to the Impulse, I think. The M14 would probably be a sweet lead glove as well.

Had this last summer, but it has variations. It's typically a patella tracking issue, which can stem from a tight IT band, muscle imbalances, footfall/stride patterns, etc. Something causes the kneecap to miss-align when your knee bends, and the resulting grinding is felt as pain under the kneecap. The exact location and nature of the pain can help determine the underlying factors. I would stop running and logging serious vertical for now, ice it frequently, and see a physical therapist ASAP. Follow their plan aggressively to correct the issue. Mine came on gradually, and I tried to run and work through it, but it got so painful that I was limping and had serious trouble walking down a grade. Turned out to be a pattern of foot out-turn on my stride, and subsequent tweaking of the lower leg and knee, that was causing mine. But the root cause may have even been a muscle imbalance in my lower back. Aggressive PT solved the issue, and with some good taping I was able to start running again after 5-6 weeks.

sale pending

will only sell as a pair

Bump. Offers?

SOLD Bought these a couple months ago thinking I would continue to train on my system board even though I won't be getting on any ice this season. Well, that hasn't been happening, so I'm looking to unload them. Original model Quark Ergos, like-new condition, picks are sharp. From what the previous owner told me, they've only been on one ice climb. $220 firm, buyer pays shipping or we can arrange local pickup within a reasonable radius of Redmond, WA. I'm only home on weekends to meet for pickup or ship the tools, but I will be checking my PM's throughout the week.

There is little to no chance of getting shut down by snow or road conditions in Cody, but as was pointed out, it can get cold. As a solid WI4 leader, you can have a blast in Cody. Classics like Cabin Fever, Wyoming Wave, High on Boulder, Main Vein, Too Cold To Fire, Bozo's Revenge, Moratorium, and Mean Green, are right in your wheelhouse. Leading Cody 4's is a good stepping stone to 5's at other venues. As mentioned above, driving in the dark both ways in the valley is often part of the deal. Watch out for wildlife on the South Fork road!

Can't speak to Canmore, but having been to Cody a few times, I'll offer my 2 cents. Get a copy of the "Winter Dance" (by Joe Josephson/ First Ascent Press) guidebook if you don't already have it. It's out of print, but Northern Lights Mountaineering or Barrel Mountaineering in Bozeman have the remaining stock (hopefully). Cody has dozens of classic routes that form reliably and are well worth the trip. If you are proficient and fit, you can log serious mileage in Cody. Approaches range from less than 15 minutes to well over an hour, with the average for some of the common classics right around 45 minutes. Grades are full-value: more often humbling than ego-boosting. Cody is often called the "alpine simulator," and for good reason.

way to crush your early-season record in a big way. Looking forward to more TRs throughout the ice season!

boots sold. thanks

Quarks sold, Scarpa boots still available. Reasonable offers accepted...

sale pending on Quarks

It'll be a season or two before I climb ice again, so I'm offering up my trusty gear to others who will put it to good use. Cash and local meeting preferred (Seattle/Eastside areas), Paypal and shipping available at buyer's expense. PM if interested. Petzl Quark ice tools, $280 Two hammers, adze+extra bolts included, picks in great shape (I've only filed down one tooth so far), grip tape on shafts, spikes modified to accept direct clip-in for umbilicals, clipper leashes included. Scarpa Phantom Light ice boots, size 47, $100 Still in great shape after three seasons. Soles have tons of tread left, and the boots are still warm and waterproof (kept me dry last winter after sloshing through the South Fork Shoshone). Zippers are smooth and snag-free. I would keep them, but they never have fit my narrow feet good enough.

What sizes are you looking for in gloves and boots? Judging by your screen name, I'm guessing you're not interested in my size 13 Scarpa Phantom Lights...

Scenic: Deep Lake, WInd Rivers, WY Ice: John Frieh on the 4th pitch of "Mean Green," Cody, WY

East Temple Peak in the Winds?

There was a great article in one of the climbing mags (I think it was Climbing, but may have been R&I) within the last 12 months about MT's virtually unknown, but nevertheless stellar, rock climbing scene. I would suggest browsing the titles by First Ascent Press. They are now defunct, but the Bozeman climbing shops Northern Lights Mountaineering and Barrel Mountaineering own the left over stash of guidebooks. Give them a call and I'm sure they can point you in the right direction.

sold

sale pending on both items

Bump for reduced prices. Really am just trying to get these out of my closet, so any reasonable offers will be entertained.

REI Kilo Flash 40 degree summer bag, long (but it's only about 6'2" inside), left zip, great condition. Fill weight is 7.5 ounces of 700-fill down; I think the total weight is just over a pound. Includes: cotton storage sack, REI compression sack, and Sea to Summit Event compression sack. The latter is still serviceable, but the roll-closure flap/buckle is torn off, so I just stuff it, spin it like a bread bag, and compress. $35 InsulMat synthetic insulated inflatable mattress, standard length, mummy shape. 72"x20"x2.5", weighs about 1.5 pounds. Includes patch kit, but no stuff sack. No leaks, tears, or repairs, and valve works flawlessly. $20 Cash OK if local, otherwise Paypal and buyer pays shipping. PM if interested.