davidk

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I am starting my search early for a roommate to take over a room in my apartment in June. Quick details: Phinney Ridge neighborhood 2br, 1ba, daylight basement apartment (tall ceilings though) laundry in unit, lots of storage including closet w/bike hooks, kitchen 1 off-street parking spot, plenty of free street parking single tenant above, landlord (homeowner) lives across street $895+utilities split 2 ways = $500 or less/month each month-to-month lease ...pretty sweet digs, and a great deal for the location! The scoop: My roommate will be moving out in June, so I am looking to fill the second bedroom. If you are interested, or know someone who might be, contact me directly via email: kiehl.d.f@gmail.com. At that point, we can talk about you, me, and other pertinent details.

Hyalite: Lots of moderates, lots of single pitch, lots of good toprope routes. Approaches as short as 10 min., but fresh snow can multiply approach times if you have to break trail. A beginner friendly area. Cody: Longer routes, full-value grades, no toproping. Longer approaches- most are 45 min. or longer, but there generally isn't much snow. Less beginner friendly. Expect full days for the big routes. Presumably you already have (or will be getting) the Winter Dance guide book.

+1 for the Outback, as well as AWD Auto in Kirkland. I have been very pleased with them. I have owned a '97 Outback wagon since spring 2008. Bought with 164k, now at 200k, hoping to get at least 280-300k. I have a 5-speed manual, standard 2.5L H4. Major service it has required: timing belt, ac compressor+receiver, brakes, cruise control module. Other than that, it has just needed stuff replaced as is wears out, such as rear hatch struts, tires, plugs/wires, cracked front drive axle, window switches. I got a great deal on mine, but have bought it 3 times since in maintenance. Still worth it IMO. As far as your requirements, I had similar criteria when shopping for a car (which happens to be my first car). So far my Outback has fit the bill well. Adequate power, but a turbo would be better and more fun. I can still get up to 85mph to pass easily enough, and am fine with downshifting to hold speed over mountain passes. Clearance is great - I've never had a problem on dirt roads, and can make it up the Hyalite East Fork road without much hassle in snow. The only time I have put on chains was in Seattle last week, and I have put in a lot of snow miles (with just good all season tires). I'm 6'3" and can sleep diagonally in the back quite comfortably, but I fit exactly and use a mummy shaped pad. I recently built a plywood platform with a pullout extension so that I can sleep me+a lady in the back with the hatch open. Always plenty of room for gear. Gas mileage: 16-24mpg, highway at 75mph full of gear is usually 22mpg. And thats a "sporty" driving style. The manuals run at slightly higher rpms than the automatics due to lower gearing. I have driven a friend's Forester with an automatic, and I much prefer the manual. With an automatic they can feel underpowered, but it's really an overdrive issue. I think the 2.5L is adequate power, but a turbo would be nice. They were only available for the 2005-2009 model years, and are rare. The new 3.6L Outbacks are supposed to drive great. The Outbacks are very tough cars, and the engineering behind the Subaru AWD system is solid and proven over many decades. Bottom line: there are other cars that can do better at certain tasks, but for one car, all seasons, all uses, the Outbacks are the best option.

Velcro= not waterproof TIZIP= waterproof. If my Phantom Lites had a velcro closure, the multiple times I have punched through frozen streams on an approach would have meant walking straight back to the car with cold toes and no climbing for the day.

I have the original model Phantom Lites like Fern, but haven't had any issues with my TIZIP zipper after ~two dozen days on ice. (But now I'm a little worried...) I just zip carefully and deliberately, and never have a problem. Dane, I've been using step-in Cyborgs on my Phantom Lites and have the same issues with the toe piece shifting off-center. I just adjust mine for a super tight fit, which requires some extra grunt to put on, but can never get them lined up for that perfect fit. I agree with you that the lower profile toes on boot soles are advantageous, so a "Scarpa toe-bail" from BD or Petzel would be welcome.

Thanks for sharing! What a stunning place. Can't wait for part 2...

As Coldfinger pointed out, when putting a belay jacket on over shell layers it can be easy to get the puffy wet from the inside out. I've had multiple instances when after a wet ice pitch I have pulled on my synthetic parka over my wet or iced-up shell. Most lining fabrics are not water resistant (or not to the extent) like the shell fabric, so any moisture on your shell can quickly enter the insulation. Not an issue with synthetic insulation. I am also a fan of the safety/redundancy afforded by carrying a down sleeping bag and a synthetic puffy.

Long shot, but anyone have a pair they want to unload?

I think one of the primary functions of the spike on the new pommel is to make "quieter" placements in ice, ie. after you sink the pick and weight the tool so the pommel rests against the ice, the bottom of the tool has increased resistance to swinging side-to-side.

sale pending

It's important to remember that the BDdry membrane (and most glove waterproofing systems) are liners, and therefore the performance of the membrane will be greatly affected by the outer layer of the glove. Common construction is fleece+insulation lining inside PTFE membrane glove inside the outer leather/softshell/nylon. It's just like with a rain jacket: the breathability of the membrane will be cut in half (minimum) if the outer shell fabric wets out. This is why it is important to maintain a DWR on the outer fabric. If your glove shells get soaking wet, then a breathable membrane inside won't be able to move much moisture, and your gloves will get wet on the inside from sweat. My old BD Patrol gloves would get soaked from sweat after a day of skiing: BDdry liner inside mostly leather shells. But my BD Punishers stay a lot drier: BDdry inside breathable softshell outers. But with both, I could probably stick my hand in a bucket of cold water and not feel it rushing in.

Bump. Any takers at $160?

All sold, thanks. Size small Fritschi Diamir brakes, fits up to 82mm wide ski. $10 BD Machine Skis. These are bitchin' on firm snow: very stiff and tight-turning. 182cm, 126-79-110mm. Bases in excellent condition (just a couple tiny nicks, 1mm or less), some scratches and scuffing on the topsheets and tips/tails, but look great. Sharp edges. Skied less than 10 days total. Drilled for size XL Fritschi Explores (bindings not included). BD Ascension skins included, used only 3 times. Asking $160 obo. Send me a PM if interested.

Feathered Friends has the Prime

still available, now for only $150

Rab Latok for leading moderates or in cold conditions. $55 from 2nd Ascent last year (call them now to get a pair - they get a limited shipment and sell out) BD Punisher for really cold leading, and general belaying/rapping (got these on closeout last year, haven't actually climbed on them yet.) ***Favorite glove for ice:*** BD Impulse. Thin leather palm, softshell back with hi-loft fleece lining, padded/articulated fingers, long cuff with velcro. Best fitting glove I've ever worn, and my favorite to bust out for a hard lead. Supreme dexterity, and warm enough - just treat the palms liberally with snoseal. This glove is part of BD's ski glove line, so not many climbers use it. Their new Arc glove looks awesome, and will probably end up being one of the top gloves on the market for leading ice. I tried a pair on, and they're pretty sweet.

The Trango Evo S will end up feeling too soft, and when you tighten the binding on your hybrid Sabretooths to prevent them from slipping on harder ice and mixed, the toe cap on your boots might collapse. This is uncomfortable and cold. I started ice climbing in Scarpa Charmoz boots (equivalent to the Trango S), and they worked, but after climbing in a rigid, insulated ice boot (Scarpa Phantom Light), the difference is clear. From the Sportiva line, the Trango Prime, Trango Extreme, or Batura Evo are much more suited to ice and mixed.

bump

bump, price dropped to $170

That's actually the first pitch pillar of Bobo Like in minimum of grade 4 condition, and Kevin placed 3 screws because pulling the topout was tough and the ice wasn't great on the pillar. What's "sick" is you making uninformed comments. But I digress, because this is the Yard Sale, not Spray.

Need to sell my size XL DAS Parka. This is the previous model that used Polarguard 3D insulation, and is two seasons old. Lightly used and in excellent condition - could pass as new if it weren't for a small pinhole in the front torso (repaired immediately with nylon tape and Seam Grip). Stuff sack included. Asking $170 obo, shipping available at buyer's expense. Get ready for winter!

still available, price reduced to $180 obo

Great TR Kevin, thanks for doing the writeup. Maybe we can beat last year's Oct. 10th record...

bump, still available!