Edlinger

Great post and food for thought. Acceptable risk means something very different in America than it does in Europe.Even though I think the punch bowl would be the most perfect teaching flow that always forms, I consider it far to dangerous to be on rope teaching a noob to ice climb. One would be under the death cicles far to many minutes. Time in the line of fire is everything in our game. :brew:Anyone want to race me car to car on the punchbowl? Could it go in under four minutes if you run from the car with your crampons on?

I haven't seen much of their stuff, but it doesn't seem to be geared to technical alpinism/climbing/ice-mixed etc as much as some of the other brands of clothing available. Interestingly enough, I heard from another climber that some of the climbers that First Ascent has chosen to feature in their ads have never done a "first ascent" in their entire climbing careers. Perhaps keeping it simply "Eddie Bauer" would have been in order.

We are off to a great ice season. What a great day! I've heard from others climbers of at least two other years that those flows have seen ascents.

One of my climbing partners was guiding Cho Oyu a number of years ago. One morning het went to one of the other tents to wake a client, and the guy was dead in his sleeping bag. He was an older wealthy client who had died in his sleep.

These guys would definitely remove the bolts on Infinite Bliss on Mt.Garfield

Any wall put in for local teens to learn to climb is awesome! my only rants are... *It was touted as the largest outdoor wall in WA, when in fact I believe it is even smaller than Camp Long in west Seattle. 150K might have been a bit high? *The holds are bolted on with a wrench that will make them easy to steal. Some meth-head will sell them on ebay. * The wall is way, way easy to climb. Even not using the modular bolted on holds, the arch goes at a weekend warrior grade. * North Bend gets over 100" of annual precip some years. The wall should perhaps have been steep enough on one side to keep it dry. Sadly, now the entire structure will only be climbable about 50 days a year due to rain. I was out once on a rainy day and every aspect seeped water to the point that it was unclimbable. * Sawdust isn't good for absorbing the energy of falls. * The wall is within 1200 yards of one of the best cliffs in Washington that stays dry 365 days a year. * The money spent on this wall would have been enough to save Index and with the extra money enough to ensure the access fund could keep every other WA crag open for the next decade or build a climber's hostel up Icicle Canyon as has been talked about for years. Although on a positive note, just like North Bend, Chamonix has an outdoor artifical wall right below amazing stuff and everyone loves the wall (including myself)!

Dudes, it ain't even fall yet by the calendar. It is still much to hot for hard rock climbing! Quality pictures though.

I've heard a lot of behind the scenes drama about north bend guides of past, present, and future. I've certainly heard through the grapevine about some bad blood over some of the guides and future guides to be done. (All my info is third hand though). What makes the whole thing so interesing is that the north bend guides are the cash cows of the guidebooks in Washington.

Who are the featured slideshow folks?

Mods, move this advert. to the Gear Shops Forum.

Usually this theory backfires vide Hidden Forest Cave near Bend. Only if you negotiate legit legal agreement will ensure the future of the area. And having no people to support this always ensures the other side wins. It happened before and it will happen again. Yes, that was a sad deal. I will agree with your logic on this crag also Bob.

Have we reduced the art and grace of moving over stone to simply numbers? What of the passion for the movement and high places- no matter 5.14..... or a lowly 5.10?

Went in about a week ago. Not much left. Clothes sizes pretty much for Andre' the giant and midgets. Very little gear of any worth.

I can't make it but thanks!

Josh, pm me in September. I'll take you out. When I was your age, I was mentored by some of the best Alpinists anywhere putting up some the world's cutting edge routes even though I had no clue. If you are into playing on a computer, forget NW hikers. They walk around in the woods and occasionaly scramble or traverse above treeline. Our range has a tradition of producing climbers that can hang with the Euros on the high peaks and you don't get there if you start climbing at age 35.

Try Comet Falls up by Mt. Rainier or Drury Falls out of Leavenworth(The Cascades biggest baddest waterfall).

Must have been put in by one of the branches of the Mountaineers Club. I've personally watched veteran Mountaineer Club Leaders install rap anchors in some pretty silly spots to get themselves down from a climb.

From mr. sexNW:..... "We spoke with an RMI guide that confirmed the injured man did lose some teeth, but other than that there were apparently no further serious injuries to him." My two cents: Yikes, the guy must have gotten really tweaked if they had to do an emergency airlift out! There are plenty of folks to carry the guy's pack down to the parking lot. And either the RMI guide was pulling your leg, trying to downplay the accident for business or professional reasons when you told you that the climber wasn't really that bad, or the chopper should never have been called. And Mountainsloth, I would have to agree, the Conga Lines up on that mountain are a nightmare.

Go to Zekes. It hasn't rained for 25 days. Normally, that entire cliff sadly usualy seeps water 359 days a year and is mostly not worth it. We've had some unusually amazing weather for almost a month!

Safe runnout if you slip.

Gotta have a 70m for many rock climbing sport areas these days. As a sidenote, if you frequently pass parties on multipitch routes, the 70m is really nice! Has anyone ever seen a rope break or get cut in a fall ever? -Not me. I've cut an 9.8m and an 11m with an ice axe in mountain emergencies. The 11m only withstood two more blows. John Harlin was jugging an 8mm cord that had been hanging in the elements for a while. Helmets at the sport crags are only for newbies and vetrans climbing easy routes- (5.11a and under). If you are climbing at a higher level, the routes are steeper, plus you fall all the time and know how to fall.

I really enjoyed your photos. Eldorado has seen a lot of traffic lately!

Busy on Eldorado!

Page Pros: Consistent batch quality of rubbers and thickness Local Cheapest anywhere-$28 for a half sole plus tax Thin soles for the sensitivity needed for hard climbing Fast Cons: Bad glue I personally don't like the horizontal finishing grind I have seen some bad jobs (and some really good ones) Ramuta: pros: Always excellent consistent amazing workmanship! Great glue I personally like the vertical finishing grind cons: You have to ship them and wait a while. The soles are thicker than even Sportiva puts on their beginner shoes, thus you can't feel the stone while on hard routes for almost three weeks until they wear down. And RuMr, you should have been climbing on Kendos instead. (even for edging routes)