Edlinger

Actually, most of the climbing is not in Frenchman Coulee, but on the walls of Echo Basin. True about the echo basin fact. And to chip in-if you are going by town names, the crags are actually closer to Vantage as a crow flies (via the river) than to George or any other town so you are correct if you call the area "Vantage". Keep doing so.

How about Nason?

Anyone else find the ads funny or at least ironic?

Hugh was sodomized by a full size Nalgene.

Wow- I'll steer clear of that rig! Their are a lot of really gross crack/trad routes at Vantage.

Beal makes a device like you show. Cold-yes Delicate- yes hang dry- yes Anything besides plain water or rope wash soap- no

Nice job guys! Keep posting TR's. No armchair quarterbacking from me. How did the Polish Route look on Colfax?

I'm with Alpinfox on this one. and on a sidenote.... NW hikers are the biggest wankers on the planet. Their exploits in the hills aren't even worthy of an internet discussion group. Well at least they can thank the us climbers for our approach routes to get to our mountians and routes. It gives the NW hikers their ideas, trails, trips, dreams, and personal Everests. Climbers have given them everything from the ultralight movement to thinking outside the box.

That Burke clown is quite a wanker.

Cool action shots!

Not the be a jerk but those numbers are laughable for any of the Mt. Kent "ice routes". All the Abiel peak routes ice and mixed routes are almost as much of a joke.

I was doing a climb recently where some previous climber had left a single bail biner on one of the bolts. I proceeded to clip the single biner and I finished the route. When I was lowered, my belayer replied that it was unsafe. I called horseshit. When I started climbed, sewn quickdraws weren't as common as they are now. We would often clip a single biner or two chained biners to a bolt. Or, if we wanted to shorten out near groundfall distance by nearly a foot on a runout slab or lowball bolted problem, we'd use a single biner. Has anyone ever seen this system fail in real life? I never have. I know it is not as safe as regular draw but come on. Anybody remember that "smith biner" with a half twist? How about the pre-sewn draw that had one side fixed and the other side you had clipped to your harness for a "clip and go" I think it was made by Cassin?

Sweet! Those are some awesome pictures! I've been making the drive from Seattle to Lillooet for 15 years now but have never sampled the Seton Lake climbs. I have a ski boat with a Johnson 100 horse outboard. Would I be crazy to tow it up to B.C.'s Little Nugget- or are the climbs that good?

Go for it! I remember when Colin was a wee kid and you guys are on the same wavelength. I've been sponsored before and sadly, climbing sponsorship in the climbing world sometimes simply means free rock shoes. I thought I heard that Sharma is the highest paid rock climber in the world and he makes around 20K with no benefits or medical but he gets free flights in addition.

Would anyone have any interest in a Seattle Pub Club this Thursday, March 19th? It would be an excuse for family guys and gals to sneak out of the house and gym rats to stop for a cold pint on the way home from the climbing gym. Someplace not crowded so we could get a big table or tables if a lot of people show. It seemed like the trend of the older pub clubs was Ballard, Phinney, or Wallingford. The Sloop in Ballard is close for all the Stone Gardens folks. A newish (or at least reinvented) bar called The Copper Gate in Ballard is about five or so blocks north of the Sloop. It is pretty awesome and the Copper Gate has Carlsberg for all the ice climbers! As some of the best all time trip reports have shown, you'll meet partners for your next near death climb or ski!!!

I would have to agree. If you are placing 15 screws -even equalized on a pitch, you have no business being on the pitch. My mentor who was a top ice climber of the early 80's said that the same would apply for having to place more than 8 screws on a pitch. Granted the screws go in much easier now. Good to hear from you Dale. We've got a few newer mixed alpine routes that you might like back here in the Cascades.

I'd think that you shouldn't be liable for this? --------------- Alpinist was always a lame magazine in my book. They proclaimed at the start that they'd never have ads and thus have to charge an arm and a leg. The last few issues had as many ads as a Comso and the writing wasn't that great. Rock and Ice is churning out a pretty good product right now with seasoned staffers and great writing.

I'm thinking of heading in to this route with my skis. Was the route skied with one rappel or was it two several years ago?

Classic!

Starting at the bottom of the food chain (and coolness chain) and working up...(scale from 1-100) 100. Mountaineers Organization (leaders and instructors- all branches) 99. Mountaineers Organization members and students 98. Search and Rescue 97. Mountain Rescue 96. NOLS 95. Outward Bound 94. Harry Potter fan clubs

If this thread is about "crotchety old men" and their rock climbing..... I'm getting some second hand information through the grapevine, but I'm told that Mr.Pope is not only perhaps younger than everyone on this thread but has also climbed at a higher rock grade than everyone on the thread (Edlinger excluded).

For once I would have to agree with Kev.

I only have about two hours on Friday (tomorrow) morning before an appointment and want to sneak in a workout. Anyone interested in doing lead routes at the Seattle Vertical World tomorrow morning when they open at 10am? I won't short rope you. I made this post because the gym is a ghost town in the morning during the summer and I'm not a fan of bouldering. I'm heading out climbing now, so I won't be back to my computer. I'll be at the gym at 10am wearing a blue T-shirt. Show up if you are game.

Most folks will tell you (myself included) that the best solos are right after relationships end. I solo a lot more waterfall ice than rock these days but I've soloed up to 11a.