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Edlinger

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Everything posted by Edlinger

  1. Very nice pictures. Looks like fun!
  2. What was the quote about putting lipstick on a pig? After talking to a few of my lowly belay slaves who are closet members, as of March 2011, the current reality is just the opposite. They are dying for new blood and simply aren't getting any and the ones they are getting are real hum dingers. You've also gotta love the top rope on the 8 foot wall with crash pads!
  3. 1.) To ignore the hundreds of Hyalite ice TR's each year. 2.) To quit soloing hard rock routes.
  4. Awesome pictures! A lot of the Petzl guys are of the opinion that Norway has the best accessible waterfall ice in the world. Great TR.
  5. Leashes are aid.
  6. Nice blog/ website you've made Kurt!
  7. I like the mid shin length for a lot of stuff (slightly longer than knickers). You can see your feet on extreme rock, but you won't catch an edge or crampon, and won't die of hypothermia. The girls think they look dumb at the crags though so I prefer to wear them in the summer alpine. Another nice blog website!
  8. No argument here with the choss comments. The trad climbing all pretty much sucks and the newer bolted areas are pretty uninteresting. Some of the newer cave routes have some cool climbing though. Despite the choss, I do find my myself at Vantage a lot in the spring with my posse of beautiful women when we are all trying to get some desperately needed sun and tan our backs and thighs. Nothing like catching rays in early April on a mellow 5.10 bolted column. West side weather sucks for nine months of the year and Vantage is more fun than the local tanning bed.
  9. Post some pictures! Did you take a winger? I've actually never climbed that rig. It'll look good from the road but will be spraying from the base. As for the Millennium walls, I would have to agree with you Laurel, they are so short that they've never been worth the walk and I am surprised they were put in the ice guidebook as "routes" in my opinion. If you made an attempt on the Drip in these conditions, bottoms up. Post some pictures.
  10. Is this for real?
  11. Gotta love being able to go bare hands and rock shoes.
  12. I think I recognize mr. blue gaiters and orange tools. He hikes routes.. often solo.
  13. Mr. Chaser... just lay low on the posting on cc.com for a few ice seasons. You have some ambition which will pay off in time. As for your your above list and how it pertains to the performance of the Grivel tool... I've climbed all the routes you list with only my Charlet walking axe solo (except for the rap wall bolted sport routes which are two tool affairs). Just relax and read what some of the more experienced folks have to say.
  14. I have a close relative that lives about 20 minutes from the crag. I was thinking about checking it out. Is it as bad as some of my friends have said? I heard it totally sucks and has some really soft ratings (coming from a 5.14 climber) I know. Anyone care to chime in? I'll probably check it out for myself regardless.
  15. Did you make it to muir?
  16. Sadly both the SR 900 and the Exit 38 rigs suck really bad for mixed training and aren't even worth the drive from even Seattle.
  17. How will we know if our resumes that we'd put on our applications are good enough?
  18. Kukuzka1, Good points except for one factual error. The line that the Infinite Bliss Bolts go up was climbed clean before the power drill put it's hundreds of holes in (well the line is about 80% the same- using the excuse that it was a different line is a cop out). The Mt.Index Sport route may be going up virgin territory and thus is a whole different ball game. I'm now for this index route if it is done well.
  19. The "lost" exit 38 cave you speak of seeps 11 months of the year many years. If you've found it dry as of the last few years, have some short term fun and if you find yourself or your buddies drilling away, although it can be difficult to find, please use stainless hangers, stainless bolts, stainless chains, and stainless screwlinks so you aren't just leaving trash behind that will have to be erased later.
  20. This could be really cool if done well. Their is a lot of big steep featured real estate up on that aspect of the mountain. Hopefully it isn't being done by a certain individual that has created a lot of controversy for his drilling on long routes in many parts of the cascades.
  21. Most of the folks I know only (including myself) "rope solo" on the alpine big rigs. I'm sure he was sussing ze' moves on TR solo. To Josh_HC please edit your post and remove the new route info. I am told we have a gentlemen's agreement with the land managers to not report any new route activity in the greater Mount SI proper or WW2 areas. If we publish (online or in print) we will lose access. Some of my buddies have done lines on the large walls of Mount Si and WW2 and have told me this. I have not opened any routes personally at WW2. Remember land mangers read this site. Thanks.
  22. Mods move this "Yard Sale" section.
  23. Da WOOF! It's awesome.
  24. Big internet retailers like backcountry.com etc, really hurt local shops. I could walk out my front door and have at least 15 places that I could buy a pair of rock shoes and an ice screw (other than REI) within a 45 minute drive. Now that number is down to 7 or so (excluding REI).
  25. Thanks for the info!
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