Edlinger

Sadly, you are between a rock and hard place. Bluewater ropes suck worse than any other brand made and.... the Mammut brand 10.2mm choice is much too thick for climbing at one's limit.

The Frost draws are awesome. They are hard for tourists to see also. The only drawback is that they aren't the easy on the hands when grabing for projecting.

Lowering Cons: Definitely harder on the gear than rapping. Hard on ropes Isn't as safe on routes with heinous edges. Lowering Pros: Many of the obscure routes we climb at see so few people that they would take a long long time to wear out from lowering. If the route is seeing 15 or less ascents a year, lower away.. this happens to be QUITE a few routes in this state You will not get up the harder routes lugging rappell devices, locking biners, extra draws and or daisy chains and such clipped to your harness- so lower away. Extra shit clipped to your harness will also throw off your balance. Many of the routes I climb are too steep to rap and clean (although many have fixed draws year round) If you chose to rap, please do so quickly. A lot of the groups at areas like smith in April and May that are on my wife's warmup climbs take 20-30ish minutes to set up a rappell for Pete's sakes. Bear in mind that very few sport climb a lot on this site and many of those that have posted on this thread have never led out of sport caves where rapping to clean is nearly impossible. On the last three routes I have opened, I have left fixed biners at the bottom of my chains. At smith I've seen locals tape the leaver biners so profusely to the chain that they'd be impossible to steal without a knife and a lot of work. We all have plenty of old ovals, we should donate them to our favorites. Route openers take note.

n oooobie

As long as you avoid Infinite Bliss, Condomorphine Addiction, and many of the lower entablature routes at Vantage below and west of the Sunshine Wall, you'll be OK and have a good trip.

Skiable...... or 4th class?

I remember being on a couple of Mexican Vacations and seeing the full line of Rolex Replica watches for sale for around 70 bucks. My brother wants one for his birthday. Does anyone know of anyplace in Washington that sells them? - Seattle's Chinatown? A friend told me that 99% of the the interenet sites selling them are identity theft/credit card no.# fronts. I've already checked craigslist and and ebay. Which Rolex did Rheinhold Messner Endorse after his climbing feats became mainstream news?

Who hacked the Infinite Bliss Thread? ---aka "Drilling in Wilderness Thread" by Dwayner about how absurd the silly the route "Infinite Bliss" is. The thread is malfunctioning (not locked). I smell a rat.

WI6 R rated?

Lucky G., come on man. You've lost some hardman points with that statement. (but you've put in some nice routes yourself, and I'd love to check out your Olympia area. I'll tell you about a small old still secret area near Lacey that I used to climb at lot when I was a teen in the 80's.) Tvash is right, this 2-3 year dialogue at gyms, on the net, around campfires, and on long car rides about the shitshow route Infinite Bliss has done a lot for public awareness.

Does this party involve booze? You know a keg was once hauled to the top of Godzilla. I can't make it but it would be cool to have a winter cc.com party out at the lower wall lot sometime with a massive bonfire.

Thanks Dane for the info. Depending on the warmth, that could be a great boot for trips!

That is perhaps the funniest thing I've ever seen on cascadeclimbers.com!!!! .

I'll make a couple of big purchases in their soon rather than an internet order.

Fossil Rock- it doesn't seep like the world wall and the air temps are much warmer than north bend or index.

The perception that internet sprayers are not putting up routes or climbing at the very highest standards being done in the cascades is simply a falacy. Even if Infinite Bliss never gets cleaned up (rap retro-bolts removed), I'm sure that the dialogue about this route and several other trash piles that have been done by the same route developer will trickle over to the developers of such routes. Perhaps the dialogue has already spread. All I want is for anyone that ever rap bolts with a gas or battery drill to think about the line for a few minutes before they drill away. Think about the clips, the falls, the rests, the wildnerness zones, the history, the style of other adjacent climbs and for the record I sport climb and open new sport routes a ton. Yes it is true, some of the folks that are good friends of mine that have put up the many of routes at rock areas like Vantage and exit 38 don't really care about this issue, but that is not the point. The saddest part of this thread is that it doesn't say "Infinite Bliss" in the title and thus will get little internet traffic.

Circuit grading rocks. The classic 2 hr. outing on the BLOCS (while at least indoors in this rainy climate here). A gym manager from Colorado once told me that if you want to make bigger profits, cater to boulderers at your gym and put REALLLLLLY soft "V" grades including a lot of giveaways on the bigger numbers and the shirtless meatheads with horrible footwork will throw themselves at the problems and bring all their friends. Not the scene that I like.

Sadly this may not hold true in the future. It is my understanding that the developers of Infinite Bliss have historically not taken constructive feedback from others(even sport climbers) in regards to their route development choices.... whether at the the high routes OR at some of our local sport crags. Ultimately, we all want the same things out of climbing. Only by working together and listening to even the minority voices, can we create routest for climbers of all styles to enjoy. This dialogue is totally different than the trad vs. sport panels of the 80's. This is about route quality. Yes a lot of us are getting our panties in a bunch, but if even one young climber reads all this banter about how Infinite Bliss should not ever be spoken of let alone climbed again, perhaps someday 10 years from now when they buy their first power drill (I love mine) they will put in great routes at the sport crag AND great adventure routes in the remote reaches of the Cascades.

Here is the commandment from on high. If you've ever climbed Infinite Bliss, don't tell anyone that you did so (ever again). Do not dare attempt to write it on any kind of climbing resume'. Strike the name, route, bolts, and all records from your memory banks. If you and I are casually climbing together and you try to brag about your weekend on Infinite Bliss to me, I will rebuke you harshly. If you climb it in the future, the climbing Gods will put a hex on your climbing. I'm so tired of this sh@# that this summer I will put up a route to the immediate left. The name I'll give my route will make you never mention the name "Infinite Bliss" again. Sure the route will take a few years to clean up but it will eventually be worth it.

[quote=Pete_All the public slideshows I've seen are pretty low-key local affairs in which the climber / presenter is essentially doing the show as a favor to the community and maybe the local climbing shop. Even if the presenter mentions the companies name at the end of the show I would hardly call the show a "commercial" affair. Well said.

No problem on that one dude. It has like one move of true 5.10a YDS at most. Anyone know the status of the bolts? Is it true they are cleaned up? The bolted version was for cowardly wankers.

I thought I heard that all the bolts were removed this past fall?

Just rock climbed in a T-shirt at my secret crag- having to chalk every fifth move. Dang it is warm!

Just checking back on cascadeclimbers. A partner was found for the 13th. Look for Edlingerrrr's posts right away next time if you want to go to the most reliable secret five month ice stash close to Seattle.

Rock or ice climbing tomorrow anyone? It was 43F at Vantage today and it is supposed to be the same tomorrow. Anyone want to put on the rock shoes and climb at sunshine or Powerhouse wall at Vantage? If ice climbing is your game, I know of a crag that is 1 hour from Seattle that gets a grand total of 20 minutes of sun at this date and is in fat right now. (It is over 4,500 in elevation). It is in from Thanksgiving to April Fools every single year. Prefer to meet in Seattle or at an i-90 corridor park and ride.