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Everything posted by Plaidman
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I wrote this up on my blog. Thought some here may be interested: Royal Robbins is one of my heroes of all time. Here he is again writing about adventure in the highest sense. The stories of his apprenticeship with the Rock Climbing Section of Sierra Club's Los Angeles Chapter are great, in that they show that great climbers are not hatched. They are taught. Some climbers have natural ability, which Royal Robbins had and has coming out his ears, but some skills need to be learned at the hand of others. Most climbers have to serve this apprenticeship and some like Royal, exceed the teachers that shared the craft of climbing freely with those in their charge. To survive your apprenticeship, move into the teacher's role, and then give liberally your knowledge to others, is what Royal Robbins has done and shares in this volume. The title of the book comes from the pages of the story of learning and adventure on Maniac's Face at Mt. Pacifico. Robbins writes, that on a climb of some difficulty he learned this lesson. "What if you climb as if you were going to make it, without any thought of failure?" He made up his mind that he that he would fail falling. What a gem in the art of climbing. He tells this better than I, on page 27. It's gems like this that I look for when reading about climbing. There are many more in this book. The free climb of the Open Book, Yosemite Point Buttress, and the climb of the Steck- Salathe' route on The Sentinel are some of my favorite stories ever. The accomplishment of free climbing a 5.9 problem in tennis shoes grips my attention. How Royal found that hole in the top of the chimney in The Narrows on The Sentinel has me dreaming that someday I could be there. It is still one of my goals and tops my list as the most sought after lead, even before getting up El Cap before my 50th birthday. I was told by an up and coming guide that if he should not be up there on The Sentinel, I had no business being there either. I'll keep working away and finish that dream someday. Royal Robbins also writes about some of the innovations that he had a hand in contributing to the climbing community, like the Yosemite Decimal System of grading rock climbing routes. Also figuring out some of the biggest walls ever done up to that time. The climb of The Northwest Face of Half Dome in 1957 was nothing but pure brilliance. As a result of this climb it changed the whole world of climbing. The big walls could be climbed as proven by the master and his partners. The narrative is riveting and getting to Thank God Ledge, when the author tells the tale, you can almost hear the relief from the pages. I loved this book. I thank the author for all he has done to inspire my generation to climb with style, and an ethic to think about preserving the rock for future generations. When you pick up this book, you will not be disappointed. I wasn't, I've read the it twice so far. Why is patience a virtue? Because not many people have it.
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They are all hard. That is a real mountain. If you are asking for the easiest route you may not want to try Rainier. And you may have no business being on it.
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Weight Loss Goals for This Spring
Plaidman replied to telemarker's topic in Fitness and Nutrition Forum
Seriously. I plan on losing 20 pounds by April 1st. I am working again as a carpenter building concrete forms and riding my bike about 9 to 10 miles. Eat less and eat good food. It should work. -
Weight Loss Goals for This Spring
Plaidman replied to telemarker's topic in Fitness and Nutrition Forum
I hear the giardia diet will shed some pounds real quick. Giadia Diet -
new invention for untying knot after whipper
Plaidman replied to markwebster's topic in The Gear Critic
Hmmm, I know it's olde school and grossly un-PC of me, but I don't really want you to check my knot, thanks. DITTO!! Now that's funny. Good one Joe! -
new invention for untying knot after whipper
Plaidman replied to markwebster's topic in The Gear Critic
pink likes this Me too. I like it a lot. All though I heard that John Gill got so strong that he ripped his bicep right off his frame and had to have surgery to re-attach it. I guess you can over do anything. 1987 Serious injury – Gill’s right biceps muscle was torn from the forearm bone in a freak bouldering accident. Quits real bouldering and returns to solitary climbs and scrambles for more than 10 years. -
new invention for untying knot after whipper
Plaidman replied to markwebster's topic in The Gear Critic
Outside is still there. I saw it today. But I was working. DAMN IT!! -
David? More like ghey-vid! sickie I love it. Can I use that: Ghey-vid Lama-a does a heinous thing with Red Bull.
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I give them all the time.
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Yeah sign me up. How about next weekend? I just started working again.
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http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Ice+clipper Or http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Ice+clipper That was fun. Do you have anymore John?
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Andy and Bax has some way cool wool pants that I like. They even have the mountaineering knickers if you want for about $30 Andy and Bax website
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You know how you reduce your carbon footprint? Wear smaller shoes. Or wear none at all.
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No I mean it. I want to see that slide show. Let's make it a party!
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Yes it is.
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Damn ice! That was some good fun. I guess we will have to wait till next year now. Thanks for posting up.
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Let's not even get into the X ratings. R.9x If you fail to make your point or win the argument, you die. It's like a death topic!
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What'cha mean that guy is already an animal. I want to see that Denali slide show of his. The story he was telling us was bad ass.
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[TR] Beasodden Rock - Jensen's Rectum (fa? III+, 5.8 C1) 1/16/2011
Plaidman replied to ivan's topic in Oregon Cascades
Go Steve Go! I am with ya 100%. Thanks for doing rap duty with me today. Slippery but fun. It may take a saw to get that broken branch at the bottom of the corner. It must have been a sizeable rock that fell to break the branch. -
No, it's better to glue on a piece of native rock you find at the base. Consider drilling it out and bolting it on to improve longevity. Then no one would even know, if you did it right.
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Plastic outside? Bad! Keep it inside where it belongs. I know you were kidding. It does get kinda ridiculous doesn't it.
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[TR] Beasodden Rock - Jensen's Rectum (fa? III+, 5.8 C1) 1/16/2011
Plaidman replied to ivan's topic in Oregon Cascades
One yeah vote here! Anchors are good. -
I went out this morning. Just got back. Decided to stay dry. The rain was coming down in sheets. And I forgot my rain pants. DAMN IT!
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I am headed out there tomorrow to do a rap session. Think I will stay dry. NOT!
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The gear rescue was.... Windy. Yes. Fun. Yes. Potential cluster f#$k. Absolutely! Thanks for taking all that cool video Steve. You are the man.
