Plaidman

Started up Flying Dutchman. The crux was just getting on it. The rain came down in 20 gallon buckets. I tried to go straight up from my anchor to the right of the small tree. Tried to do a hook move on the slabs and the flake blew. Fell on a #2 micro nut. My belay anchor held. I tried some other tricks and then had to down climb and go up to the left. I put in another #2 mirco nut as my first piece. That is when Steve called me as I was trying to get the next piece in. I was shooting for the next tree. I had to put in another nut to get up to it. Then I was trying to do a stupid rope trick by trying to lasso the tree with my cordlett. I resolved that it would be better to make a free move and just get up there. That is when the windows of heaven opened as I was in the middle of the sketch move. Made it to the tree and after that it was easy. I made it past the first three fixed pins used a couple of hook moves to get to the rap anchor. I even used a cam hook. Sweet! Then I bailed off on the rap anchor to the left. Jugged my rope and cleaned the gear. I have a fixed line I will use to finish it later. It was raining so hard when I got back to my car I could barely see it. I borrowed a kayak paddle jacket from Ben. It keep the water from running down my arms but I was soaked with sweat. Fun time though.

I am going out to solo aid something in my new paddle jacket that I borrowed so I can try to stay dry. Call if any would like to join the slug fest. 503-706-5315 leave a message I will call u back

As performed by Emily my daughter. She is dancing the traditional ice dance to call the ice into the Columbia River Gorge. Ice Dance!

Think cold thoughts. I need more ice.

DAMN IT. CRAP. Now I am mad. Well maybe I was before. AHHHHHHHH!!!!! I was planning a trip that is now canceled. But seriously thanks for the recon!!

I am going back to Banks Lake weekend after next. Don't know where I am getting the money. It's so close to Christmas my wife is hording money to spend on the kids. I am a kid. I just need a little cash for gas. I'll camp and eat peanut butter sandwiches, freeze my ass off and have a great time. Seriously I have two people to go from PDX. I have one seat in my car for someone to pitch in on gas. This is all moot if the weather doesn't stay cold. Someone turn up the cold I am not done climbing. sickie sickie

I have heard that the decent off Leaning Tower can be a real booger when it is wet. Not fun for sure. Some of the guys from the Mountain Shop said it was heinous. May be the best place to ask is on SuperTopo.

It was starting to melt out on Dec 5th when we looked at it.

Here is a link to some video of The Cable and H2O2 Plaidman Video of The Cable - video credit Rick MacDonald Not touching down yet.

Rick stopped at the WI5+ move. Still a good lead up to that spot. Rick is a badass.

When the ice is really in Rick's BD Fusion ice tool tattoo starts glowing and my broken heart tat starts beating wildly.

I looked at this yesterday and it looked like it was melting out. Not as fat as in the photos above.

Here some pics from Banks Lake. H2O2 just north of the cable. Beau and Wayne Wallace climbed it on Sunday. Beau led it past where Rick stopped. Getting on the pillar was the crux. It goes at WI5+ My wife The Adventure Queen even got some top roping in. We offered to give her the rack so she could send it for us. She declined. Getting on the pillar was the crux. It goes at WI5+ We didn't get to go up to the top for the scary 5+ climbing. We went over to Devils Punch Bowl and found a safe spot on the Lower Falls. Trying to get the video of this last sequence edited. We had a blast. Banks Lake is fat and fun off the hook. Plaidman

No. He's real wet. Don't make me talk about it.

You should read my Windy Day at Beacon report at: Windy Day at Beacon on OregonLive.com

I may come out!

Rick, Larry, Ronda, and Plaidman just got back from Banks Lake. Trip report will be posted soon. This is the best pic from the whole weekend taken by Ronda. It was 18 degrees and Rick and I are HOT!!!

Did you set up that zip line G-spotter?

Especially is you have a rack of gear on you. Sink right to the bottom you will.

Thx Steve for posting that. That was an awesome day. After that I went down and belayed and followed Ben up the first pitch of Crest Jewel on Crown Point in the dark with headlamps. Flipping awesome season last year. just too short.

Here is a reconnaissance of Starvation Creek last year. Classic Plaidman nose hair video. Terrible quality. Plaidman at Starvation Creek

Scary and Fun Most of the years I could find pictures on Eastern Washington ice was all early season. We got Starvation Creek Falls done early season last year. Dec 12th 2009. It was all good. Mind you that the day after we finished Starvation Creek it was mostly gone, but it got really warm that day. Starvation is a sick climb. Three of us got to top out. The top of the falls there is an awesome belay. Two ropes to rap off to climbers right. We rapped with headlamps. It was way awesome. Starvation Creek TR We almost got the chop on Ainsworth Left though. I'm not going back on that one. Plaidman

G-spotter that last post was really helpful. Are you feeling O.K. I wasn't sure you had it in you to contribute in such a meaningful way.

DITTO! x10

How about the face of Table Mountain? I have stood on top on those detached pillars. It is straight down for 2000 ft.