Plaidman

I thought I would do it as clean as possible. Just to see if I could. Fun, ya know. Just a different kind of fun.

EVEN I know what blue blockers are. They were sunglasses from the 80's. Very popular. You should get a pair.

I watched several of my offset brass nuts crumble the rock. That kind of speeded up my next placement. Wanted to get the next one in before that one blew.

You sawed-off arrows? Couldn't these be Cn placements of some sort? NO! I wanted to do a pinless ascent and minimized the nailing where I could. It is a nailing route.

Those aiders are the most awesome. Really stable. I used a lot of iron in that crack. Knife blade bugaboos, peckers, long dong lost arrow, another lost arrow piton, several sawed off last arrows, tricams, 3 alians, lots off off set nuts, small brassies, baby angles. 34 pieces of gear. You should have seen the nest of body weight pieces at the top of the pitch. Well not the top. The top I got to in my effort. I was at least 5 1/2 to 6 hours on it. I didn't even leave the ledge until 12:45 p.m. Damn winter. Not enough sun.

Thanks man. That video is awesome. Fun time!

Wind or no wind we just need to do it!

Wind report for 1/10/2011 and 1/11/2011 were suppose to be 60 to 70 at cascade locks and near 100 at crown point. I am trying verify that information. It was windy for sure.

It is supposed to be stellar. I would go for some of that. I would even belay for ya. Owe ya man. I am still amped!

Nice! Thanks Steve!

Had to go out to rescue my gear off Psychic Wound. After trying to get to the top of the second pitch we had to bail. I down aided and then fell about 20 ft. when some of my body weight placements got tired. Soft catch by Steve, but set him and the porta-ledge for a ride. He lowered me off from that point. We pulled the rope and went back today to rap and clean the route. 34 pieces is what I cleaned. I was only 20 ft. from the anchor. DAMN IT! We rapped in successfully, and I cleaned the gear from the anchor I built off two bolts and a tri-cam. I had to pendulum over to my line but was able to pull it off. WOW is was windy today. We beat the storm and got back to the car and sorted gear. We finished sorting just as the snow started to fall in the parking lot. What a fun trip!

The video of Mark Twight's is off the hook. Mark Twight Video

That's weird Dane. I was just reading your blog and flipped back to CC.com and here was your post with what I just read. Good stuff! I thought I was having deja vu.

Right on John!

I may be there on Monday.

Looks like Jim has got the new hoodie. I will be out this week. Had the kid this weekend. Sorry I missed the fun.

I went and bought one too! I love it. So versatile. It is a blaclava, hat, and great warm layer. It does sheds rain but is not water proof. It's perfect for me. My wife wants one too. It really is a great deal.

You should just call into work climbing,(sick). Tell them it's contagious.

I just got a hand me down pair of foot fangs that my partner is letting me use. I was having really difficulties with my feet kicking out. He says that it is just not keeping my heels down. I thought maybe sharpening the front points would help. I inspected them and found they were a lot duller than they looked. It looks like he's been kicking rocks with em. So I have one set sharpened and working on the other now with a hand file. I am sure that it will make a huge difference. I will be testing them on the ice next week. Keep those heels down DAMN IT!!!

Cleaning up the assholeness is going to take a lot of work. It may be beyond you. Love ya man HAAAAAA HAAA

Have you climbed it? It was really just an off the cuff comment right after the climb.

Thanks Bill. That was a really fun day. I love that place. And it was better than sex! Don't tell my wife though. She did climb it and thought it was fun but not better than sex. Glad there is no poison oak up at Coethedral. Wankers though I thought was worthy when the west end of the gorge is wet. I just want to climb those cracks.

That's it. I am moving east!

I am all about valor! Yeah, but, do you even know what discretion means? Yeah I know what it means. I am trying to be discreet about it though.

I am all about valor!