Plaidman

I just read this report. I think I am going to skip this weekend right over to some rock climbing..... Issued by The National Weather Service Portland, OR 1:07 pm PDT, Fri., May. 8, 2009 100 PM PDT FRIDAY MAY 8 2009 ... HIGH BACK COUNTRY AVALANCHE DANGER EXPECTED THIS WEEKEND IN MT HOOD AREA... A series of strong spring storms this week have deposited a significant amount of new snow to the mountains of the Pacific Northwest. Two strong cold frontal passages and additional precipitation with upper trough passages have deposited about 2 to 4 feet of new snow above about 6000 feet in the Mt Hood area and south Washington Cascades. There were also very strong southwest to westerly crest level winds with the snowfall building cornices along ridges and depositing wind slab layers on lee slopes. This new snow should become very susceptible to the destabilizing affects of warming and sunshine anticipated through the weekend. Freezing levels should climb to about 7000 feet Saturday and over 8000 feet Sunday with significant sunshine. This weather should cause natural or triggered avalanches to be likely in steeper terrain throughout the region, but especially higher elevations and on the volcanoes where the greatest recent snow has likely been received. Some of these slides may be large and potentially dangerous entraining significant volumes of snow as they descend. Slides beginning in higher terrain may travel long distances reaching valley bottoms and depositing significant debris. We cannot emphasize too strongly the increased danger these conditions pose through Saturday and Sunday. We are urging potential backcountry travelers to avoid traveling in or near avalanche terrain until the recent snow has either slide or settled and stabilized over the coming days.

After reading this post I won't be going up this weekend. Re_Question_re_Mt_Hood_Conditions cascadeclimbers.com http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/880583/Re_Question_re_Mt_Hood_Conditi#Post880583

Thanks for the beta. It is as I thought. Two screws and a couple of pickets suck it up and go. Snice sounds interesting.

I've been trying to get the same info on the Pearly Gates and how thy are shaping up this year. No one has been forthcoming with any beta. The long range forecast was better today for the weekend. My partner from Colorado and I tried the week before last and got blowen off. We make it about 100 yards from the lodge at 6000 ft. with 40 to 50 mile and hour winds and gusts much stronger. We chose to turn back. We will try again. Avalanche Danger is reported to be bad after tonight. Hopefully it will lessen by the weekend. It is raining like hell here in Portland and the snow level is at 5000 ft. This is as of 5/4 evening. I may be willing to make a go on Sat. night into Sunday.

I was wondering the same thing. I was wondering how the Pearly Gates were shaping up or whether it was advisable this year. Planning on doing the Old Chute if The Gates are closed.

Ivan Check out the access issues http://www.washingtonclimbers.org/Current/Town.htm Adam and I were going to get on Town Crier Now I am crying. Plaidman

Went out to the Rat Cave today and rocked the far left route. It took me about 45 mins. All bolts but had to get in the top step of my aiders and make a hook move as I am only 5 foot 6 inches with little stubby arms. Good fun. All over hanging and reachy. Plaidman

After much practice on smaller aid projects I will see how long it take me to aid on a similar crack. Right now it looks like it would take me about 4 hours to do the first pitch. So it looks like I will need much more time in the aiders before I fire off on something that long. Or I will have to second and clean it. I would rather lead it though. So I will practice, practice, practice. Plaidman

Thanks. That will help with calculating how long it will take to git er done.

The real question is how long is the first pitch. Thanks for all the other info. It will be very helpful. Now to talk my climbing partner into doing it with me. Plaidman

Looking for more beta on the West Face Route on the Monkey Face at Smith Rock. How long is the first Pitch? It looks close to 150 feet. That is the pitch I want. The rest seems like it is doable. What are the conditions of the bolts? Bringing the cheater stick just in case. Plaidman

Jim and I were going to rap the route last week. He told me it as 9 raps and they wander a bit. Maybe we can get it done on Sunday. I am willing to part-take of any and all adventures on that side of Beacon. Love that rock. Damn the birds. Plaidman

Count me in. Just been trying to do the solo aid trip and it is heinous. I just haven't been willing to put a partner through my learning curve. Which is rather steep. I need to get the aid thing down. The only way is to practice. So I am willing and ready to get after it. Plaidman

Good one Dave. Plaidman

Go 1/4 mile west of rest area. We got up behind the detached pillar. We call it the Cave Route. It was awesome. The pillar was about 8 feet across. We did not top out. Rapped off a V thread. High adventure. The pillar was killer Wahoooo!!! Plaidman

Just got back from Mist Falls. It is fat. Lowered off my first two V threads. Now that's the sh*t. WhaHoo!!! I will post pics as soon as I get them developed. Plaidman

On the way to Mist Falls. Wahoo!! Plaidman

Nice pic. That's what we looked like after we climbed on Saturday. See you out there tomorrow. I got the fever too. Can't sleep. Plaidman

Trip: Mist Falls line on 12/20 - Left of Center first pitch Date: 12/21/2008 Trip Report: Got it done. Left of center at Mist Falls 12/20 No falls. 9 screws. 80 ft. Sure would like to get the photos that were taken by the other climbers that were there. They got some pics of us stemming between the ice pillars.

Ivan - Ben and I are going out tomorrow. We are going exploring to see what trouble we can get into. Scott/Plaidman

Mist Falls is in. I climbed it on 12/16. Today(12/20)I led the left of center route. Right up the bulge. First ground up lead this season. I top roped it on the 16th. And then Sport led it. So it was a red point I guess. Can you call it an on sight since the ice is different everyday? Set 9 screws. Most were long. Ground out one on the rock. Ouch. The chandeliers up top were not too bad. The right side there was a lot of ice fall but none from the top. Even though the wind was Nukeing. All of 40 mile an hour wind gusts. Were were able to top rope the ice pillars just to right of us. Stemming between the two. It was awesome. No falls. I am so amped I won't sleep for a week. Plaidman

Some of my gear was found. The backpack and a few things. Not much. Very bummed out. Should be happy to get anything. The gear was found on the Springwater Corridor near 39th and Johnson Creek Blvd.

Some of my gear was found. The backpack and a few things. Not much. Very bummed out. Should be happy to get anything. The gear was found on the Springwater Corridor near 39th and Johnson Creek Blvd.

Near S.E. 39th and Nehalem Parked on the street in a quiet neighborhood.

It happened near 39th ave and Woodstock. Really closer to Reed Collage.