BirdDog

Try Dermatone. Get the stuff in the tin. Doesn't have a real high SPF, but will protect against cold and wind burn pretty well.

Interesting write up and analysis Dane. I've nerver gone for waterproof/breathable fabric on a down jacket or bag; because I've always been more concerned about my sweat getting them wet from the inside, rather than being worried about them getting wet from weather. Interesting point on the gaiters.

OMB - Sorry to be bearer of bad news - I have the exact same issue as you, along with a ganglion cycst. Went to the Doc a week ago, got an x-ray and the diagnosis is arthtitis and bone spurs. Doc says quite common is guys over 50 who have done lots of manual work; I was a carpenter for years. The cyst I have is pretty big, caused by fluid leaking from the FUBR'd joint; I'll probably have surgery. Doc says bone spurs probably causing most of the pain. Arthritis is only in one joint, not systemic, I guess that's good. Doc said to keep from doing movements that bend thumb towards wrist (like taking top of a jar) and probably be tolerable for some time. Rock climbing OK, except for thumb down jamming; which I always sucked at anyways; now I have a great excuse. Next time I do classic crack I'll aid the fucker! Good Luck!

I have BD Alpine Bod, old style. I was going to upgrade to a Couloir last summer; hung on one in the store and decided to keep my alpine bod. Couloir is lighter and much more compact, but I would not want to spend anytime hanging in one, pretty uncomfortable not to mention loss of circulation etc.. For sport - get a padded harness.

A sitting hip belay with gold line would turn most belayers into a screamer as the rope shredded the skin off their lower back.

Wow, I toally missed this thread. Dane - I watched the KOMO4 piece, thank you so much for being candid about this and bringing it to the forefront. I'm getting my two boys vacinated now! I've seen HPV in the news but never paid much attention, I am now. I wish you the very best in getting through this.

Mtguide - that was a great piece of writing; and spot on. In the '80s I drove long haul, racked up a lot miles across the south. I got some unbelievable tickets from those crooked ass southern cops. Thankfully I'm white so all I got was tickets, and all they got was cash. It would have been a hell of a lot worse if I was black.

I have a BD Speed 30 - love it. It's great for day trips, probably a bit small for overnight or bivys. It carries weight (alpine rack etc..) well.

Cross post from kids forum A pair of shaped K2's with Marker bindings 100cm; Linky to craigslist: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/2659901869.html

A pair of shaped K2's with Marker bindings 100cm; Linky to craigslist: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/2659901869.html

PM sent

sweet! awesome photos.

Another superbly written TR with a great set of photos that really capture the climb. Well done and congrats to all!

Well...not much I could add to Tom's excellent narrative here. This trip had it all; voratious bugs, awesome bivys, killer sunsets, a rather long brush fest, an alpine rock finish, and stunning views in a absolutely gorgeous area. Great write up Tom; you did a fantastic job of capturing the trip. Thanks. I'll add a few photos.

YES! Not to be missed, the highest point in North Cascades National Park. thanks, now it's on the top of my list!

nice! goode is definitely on my list. heard there is good bivy site on top - yes?

reading comprehension and semantics aside.... "beginner" and "solo" in the same sentance are or should be mutually exclusive. IMO a beginner should not be solo.

My kid found an iphone below Pan Paoint yesterday. He turned it in to the Ranger @ the visitors center.

I don't think I would shell out $400 for a shell jacket, but last year I won an OR Mentor Gore-Tex Pro Shell jacket. I just got back form two weeks in the Rockies where I wore it a lot in warm rainy conditions, both hiking and mountain biking. It worked superbly! Despite riding in 60-65deg rain, I never had any wetness on the inside. The Mentor has full side zips, so you can open the pit zips, or open all the way like a poncho. It has also done very well in N. Cascade weather. Weighs 14oz. Really nice piece of gear!

I don't have a gpx, my partner might. PM is you want some beta on getting up there, pretty simple route.

Nice guys. We spoke with at the base of Eldo before you set off for Klawatti.

Best of luck to you Sandy!

Trip: Eldorado - Eldo Glacier-East Ridge Date: 7/2/2011 Trip Report: We were shooting for Eldo/Klawatti together but Sunday's weather derailed Klawatti. Topped out on eldo about 7:30PM on Sat. Apart from some post holing at about 8500', snow conditions were great, no crampons needed. The Eldo glacier is very filled in on the east side, no open cracks. Woke Sunday to wind, sideways rain, and 20' of visability. Headed down in the rain. No north cascade trip would be complete without a fight fest with some face slapping slide alder, so we got a little off route in the bolder field and shwacked for 400'. Gear Notes: Took crampons, but didn't need 'em. Approach Notes: Snow starts 1/2 way up the first bolder garden, continuous from there. Moats beginning to form but are easy step across.

Trip: Torment-Forbidden Photo Beta - North Date: 7/2/2011 Trip Report: Here's a photo for anyone thinking about the north side of Torment/Forbidden; taken from Eldo. Snow conditions are good, a little soft in places but no crampons needed right now on Eldo.

we just scared to climb with kids who onsite 5.14