-
Posts
416 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Everything posted by BirdDog
-
vantage toilet (at least as of June 20th..)
BirdDog replied to cosmicdebris's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
As if climbers don't do the same??? They also seem to have no problem leaving their metallic "poop" every few feet on any convenient piece of rock. (I may have missed a few.) You are fucking nuts! -
PM sent.
-
[TR] Canadian Rockies Melange - 6/11/2012
BirdDog replied to Pete_H's topic in British Columbia/Canada
Nice! I drove the parkway with my kids last year, nice to see the different perspective in your pics. -
Thanks Monty, that clarifies it.
-
Isn't that what a Kiwi Coil does, leaves extra coils ready for use? A Kiwi coil ties into the end of the rope, then coils part of the rope in between the climbers. Once you untie the coil, there are no extra coils past your tie in point (the rope end) to drop into a crevasse of create a haul system. OK, I'll but that. I always thought a kiwi coil was tying in short and wrapping remaining rope in coils around your head/neck/shoulders/pack/etc.. What is that called? Tying in short?
-
Isn't that what a Kiwi Coil does, leaves extra coils ready for use?
-
30m is probably considered std. for a 3 person team; however for a 2 person team I think it's a bit short because of the length you need for rescue coils.
-
[TR] Mt. Shuksan - Circumnavigation 5/26/2012
BirdDog replied to JasonG's topic in the *freshiezone*
Beautiful! Nice work. -
Way to get out there even if your partner bailed!
-
A single 30m is a bit short for two person roped glacier travel as it doesn't leave much rope for rescue coils. I have pair of 30's that work well. You can tie in short one one, and have the other available for rescue. They also work well as twins for alpine rock, or single for running belays on snow. Don't use a twin rope as a single on rock; not rated for that and easily cut. They belay and rap fine as twins, a bit stretchy but not a problem.
-
Keeping your knees safe when mountaineering
BirdDog replied to TheNumberNine's topic in Climber's Board
Lots of other good advice here. I had my ACL reconstructed 17 years ago, and I'm always conscious of hyper-extending it. On descents/plunge stepping I always keep my knees bent a little, and lean back slightly; this keeps me from hyper-extending the knee should I post hole. -
Trango Alp is an uninsulated, 3/4 shank boot without a toe welt; so you would have to use at least semi-automatic crampons (straps on the toe). The Trango Extreme is somewhat insulated, and has a full shank, with toe and heel welt, so you can use fully automatic crampons (crampons that have toe bail and heel piece.) The Extremes are much stiffer, so they climb steep snow or ice better, but don't walk as well. The Alps, walk better and would easier to climb alpine rock with. What do you plan on climbing? Do you have crampons? If you have full autos, they won't work on the Trangos. Summer hikes/scrambles/climbs - Alps. More vertical stuff or in colder environs - Extremes. If you can only afford one boot and plan on some volcanos, go for the extremes; although Trangos will work in most summer conditions. If you plan on alpine climbs to say 9000' with some longer approaches, get the Trangos. Go to Pro Mountian Sports, Jim stocks both and will give you the full run down. OK, I just saw the title of the thread. You asked about Extrems vs. Prime, not Prime vs. Alps; so add this. I have a pair of Primes, walk OK, OK for alpine climbing, clumsy on rock. Not too warm either. Primes are really an ice boot. I'd say go with Extremes for general alpine stuff.
-
Nice. Great pics and stellar weather.
-
If you use wands to mark your cache, make sure it's really buried well cause the ravens are nortorious for digging up food caches like a pack of St. Bernards on steroids.
-
HOR - thanks for great analysis. I wish you the very best in recovery. As someone who has been busted up a few times (climbing, motorcycles, etc...) I will say this: there will be times you will think you will never heal, and then one day you will realize wow I really made progress. Hang in there, you will heal up fine. Best of luck!
-
Taking a helmet is never a bad idea! Just not a lot of rock fall hazard on the Emmons as compared to DC route.
-
Lot's of good advice here. I'd definitely have at least one screw with me on a two person team; it can be a life saver if one of you drops in a crevasse. Would skip the helmet on the Emmons as well. Good luck!
-
I haven't persoannly witnessed any gear pulling at Vantage; however many of the cracks have a reverse taper, meaning they get bigger towards the inside of the crack. If your cam walks it may get into a part of the crack that is larger than the cams range and fail if fallen on.
-
Not much public land around Satus Pass area. Everything to the north is Yakima Reservation, a lot of private property to the south. You'd be better off looking up Hwy 12/410 area, or Yakima Canyon/Manastash.
-
I headed up to Stevens on Sunday with my kids to ski inbounds. We got there about 10AM, and were turned back due to all parking full. On the way up the sun was definitely breaking through the clouds. I don't know what the sun was doing at the time of the slide.
-
[TR] Mt. Shuksan - skiers left - curtis glacier 2/15/2012
BirdDog replied to danhelmstadter's topic in the *freshiezone*
wow, nice! When you say the summit pyamid gulley, are you talking about the south side? How did get to the Curits, Hell's Hiway? Beautiful pics. -
I have a very narrow heel, and LaSportivas work well for me. When you ask about Sportive evo gtx, which model do you mean; the Trango Extreme EVO or Trango S. The Trango S and Trango ALP are both 3/4 shank, so they won't be rigid. Trango Extreme I believe have full shanks.
-
What would you like to see most in a climbing gym?
BirdDog replied to ontheedge's topic in Climber's Board
...vote for a kids play area? The whole thing is a kids play area. What we need is a full service bar!