ScaredSilly

For those who missed this: http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08s/newswire-alberta-wintry-house-anderson

As folks have said wander about but watch the weather. It can and will come up fast. Be prepared for a major blizzard and to be able to return to Paradise in a white out. Take and map and compass and know the way points in between - it ain't a straightline. The one hazard to watch out for are underground streams. People have fallen through and drowned. This is problem typically near the terminus of the snow fields.

I once had the opposite - got accused of stealing gear. The guy and his friends were real asses about it so I had fun with it. They demanded to see what was in my pack. I declined and politely said they could follow me back to my truck and record my license plate number and have the sheriff visit. The guy tried to grab me, which was a big no-no as touching someone in such a context is considered assault. In the end I did show them what was in my pack cause they threatened violence. But I did it very slowly and talked to them in tone one would a four year old (very slowly, explaining everything). When I got home I talked to the deputy who they had filed their report with the day before. His first comment was do you want to file charges, I said no just have a long talk with them. It used to be everyone knew each other so leaving packs at the base was not a big deal. Anymore I just carry my pack - it is just training.

20s-60s, party sunny between scattered snow showers, chance of horizontal sleet with low lying clouds. Winds 0-60 mph with reverse gusts up to 100 mph on the summit. Freezing levels from 6000k - 12000k rain showers possible at lower elevations.

Not really, just not easily impressed. Too many wannabe's out there trying to be the "first". To the point that most of the antics are uninspiring and boring.

Not so impressive - the euros have been ski hucking themselves off cliffs for quite some time now. I am actually surprised no one has done this before. And I surely would not say that this history or a first to ski base jump OFF of Hood, Mississippi head wall is at 7k so he started 4k low.

I have done this - the snowshoer is the crevasse poodle while the skier is the anchor. Otherwise it is not too much of hassle. That said it is better to have the same transport on the same rope as it is more efficient.

Gotta agree with Mark on the East Face of Denali. I had a nice conversation with Brad a few years ago when he learned I had been on the East Buttress a couple of times. When it came to the East Face I told Brad I thought it was nuts to go through the Traleika. There are better objectives out there. As for the trifecta - there have been many very strong climbers who have taken many seasons to get all three. Hell 95%+ of those coming up to the range who sign in for the Cassin never even step foot on the route. Probably the person who comes the closest that I can think of doing the trifecta is Michael Kennedy. Though he did solo the Cassin a couple of years after doing the Lowe-Kennedy and the Infinite Spur and of course did the route on Moonflower many years latter.

I spent three years at OSU. Even worked at the ODP while there (I understand that some of our schanigans are still in place twenty plus years later ;-). To be honest neither school is that close to any real climbing. Yeah there are the Columns in Eugene but you are going to be traveling to get to other cragging. Similarly for running up a peak - you are going be to driving for a couple of hours. I would just pick the school that best matches your educational plans. Then go to grad school, pick a good climbing town, and then take 8 years to get your degree. That worked for me. Oh yeah as for the school rivalries - who gives a flying fuuck, when comes to sports Oregon schools in general stink. Fuuck a duck, beat a beaver.

Send me a note - I am PNW transplant, been here 20 years now. Lots of good stuff here - and some BS that is best ignored which is not much different than any other place all depends on the flavor of koolaid you like to drink.

Very nice, just a little walk in the park ;-).

In what ways? I have read both White Winds and Hall of the Mtn King. So I would be interested in learning what brings this about. BTW I have two friends buried on Denali.

rbw1966, I am assuming you are talking about my ski traverse. We planed for four days but did it in three. Spent the first night down along the Minan River, the second by Minan Lake and then blasted over to Mirror Lake and out through the Lakes Basin in day. The last day was a long day but the skiing was so good we just could not stop.

Clam - good on ya. I grew up over there and one winter long ago we decided to ski across the range. We went from Moss Springs above Cove out to Wallowa Lake. Some where I have some great photos from the Minan - Mirror Lake pass with the hills all laid out. A great sight. There is some good ice up Hurricane Creek and other hidden unclimbed gems .

Leased federal land is rather interesting. Many (perhaps most) times the leasee has complete control over the land they are leasing. In the past ski resorts were unique in that they typically had control only during business operating hours. However, with the larger resorts mountain operations (grooming) often go throughout the night and start early in the morning (grooming and avalanche control). Many have asked for and received permission for control 24/7. (I had my hand in this here in Oootah). In some areas like Alta, UT they could be blasting not only with in the resorts but also for the roads and city. In those cases they do an inter-lodge. More than once the Alta marshall or Alta resorts has let me know that I had 10 minutes to either be out of the parking lot or in a building cause after that the marshall would be ticketing. In those cases I just drove down the road and skied else where. Not knowing all of the specifics I would ask for a meeting with the District Ranger and see what can be learned. If there blasting operations do have an impact on the BC access then there does need to some dialog.

I use them all the time for my feet. The ones I have are made by Gator in Salt Lake City. They are thin and lined. They stink after a few days of usage. I like the fact that they keep the sweat out of my wool socks which are heavy dachstein. I think the benefit comes more from multiple days out. However, you do need to let you feet dry lest you want trench foot. http://www.gator-sports.com/gator.swf

Beacons are sold

Yeah I doubt that the road will be open anytime soon. Last time it was out they only lost a few hundred yards this time it was much more. Any one know the status of the suspension bridge? I did not make it up there this year and usually use the bridge. Thinking about heading up there this winter again.

I remember being up high soloing a 20k peak. I crossed over a crevasse bridge only to have it collapse behind me. That ups the ante. When soloing glaciated peaks I tend to stick to ridges and avoid the crevasses - this is not always possible. I also like routes where retreat is straight forward. My one winter attempt on Rainier was the Willis Wall. After retreating and coming down the Carbon my partner and I repeatedly punched into cracks and at one point we both went into different cracks. So winter does not always mean safer in terms of breaking through. Folks have mentioned the Gib Ledges - did them years ago one spring but we descended the DC. For those who have done the Ledges in winter did you descend the same? I think probably the biggest factor is white conditions - whether summer or winter. Finding your ways around that bald dome in a whiteout sucks. I have done this several times. Not fun.

Joining the party late, but I spent 9 years in the PNW before moving Ooootah. Been here 20 years. Within a days drive I can be any where from Yosemite to back in the PNW. But most times I am within the state doing something stupid. Now that we have some snow I be doing dawn patrols, up 5am, skinning up, catching some pow, and be into work by 10am. Repeating as necessary. Yeah, SLC can be be a drag on the political side of things but like anywhere you have to pick your battles. They is a real good outdoor community here, lots of good folks. And if you miss the PNW flights are reasonable enough. In fact in the past 8 years I have been up on Rainier 4 times. Mike - look me up when you get settled. The ice is coming in and the pow is starting to stack up.

I would say they are true to size. I wear around a 8.5-9 street shoe. With a VBL sock and a really thick dachstein sock this makes shoe in the 10-11 range. The fit is much better than some other similar boots like my old One Sports which I had to wear 11.5. Scarpa Infernos were 11s.

PM Sent

Got two Mammut Baryvoxs $400 for both.

Aluminum or Carbon Fiber shafts? Here are some Carbon Fiber ones (price is a bit high as one should be able to get them for $200) http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/747212#Post747212

A while back I bought Bibler Eldo with the ground sheet and vestibule. Later I found a I Tent with 2 doors so I am using it instead. So I have a choice return it or pass on the killer deal that I got on it. I have not pulled out of the stuff sac - nor will I to take pictures as if I return it it needs to be as is. $500 cash takes it all. Used Vasque Ice 9000 Size 10.5 USA Great mtneering boot. These are the red versions. $100. Used Beal 60m Dry Rope - now retired probably 8 years old - I would use it for TRing or as a haul line now. $35. Used Chouinard Crack 'N Ups. #5 and #6 $60 for both. Mammut Barryvox Transceiver - $400 for both. (Sold as a pair only) Here is a nice review of them: http://www.wildsnow.com/articles/barryvox/barryvox_review.html Shipping at the buyers cost. All SWAG is in SLC will delivery locally for a beer.