ScaredSilly

Pretty humorous, though you might want to take an inclinometer with you as I doubt you would have been kicking steps in "hard alpine ice" on 60-65 degree slopes and if so ole Toby would have been hanging on the rope for all it was worth. From your pictures and description you were on the Old Chute and IIRC the slope going up it are at best 45-50 degrees with firm neve. The West Crater Rim starts further to the west on the other side of Crater Rock. That said when ya got back to T-line hopefully Toby bought ya a beer and sausage for getting him up there.

Wow!!! And I thought things were chummy at Teton but that certainly out does it.

I use the old Alpine Club books cause I am old and in the way and have yet to modernized ;-).

What ??? you missed the Little Brother, gotta start over :-). Other wise it sounds like you had a nice little jog in the woods. Cool!

Nice!!!!!!

A friend has one and uses it frequently. Seems to have good luck with it and using it for checking in. I guess the question is what do you want to use it for? Checking, emergencies, tracking your movement, etc. I have a PLB - though I have not yet registered it.

I have found Oct to often be a great month for poking around. However, the slopes will be very hard unless there has been some snow. You might consider something like the Sunshine Route on Hood. Definitely more of an adventure if you can team up with someone with glacier skills. I would suggest Cooper's Spur but one really needs to be on top of their skills to be in it in the fall lest they be in a fall.

Hey Jason, Sorry that time came. We had to do the same with our pup earlier this summer. Hard day for sure.

Shave so the icicles do not freeze to my face :-). Of course snot icicles are another story :-))).

Nice, great photos of my old stomping grounds.

Last summer we got started on average around 5:30. That worked for us old guys who like to enjoy a little nip and a cigar before turning in. Still got to the top of before many.

Ditto, the above is SOP for many, my self included. Of course it does help if the last person lets you know when they have taken the last piece out. Otherwise just solo.

Because one can inspect boots, crampons, tents, etc. pretty easily. But a rope is more difficult. Sure can see gross wear and tear but it is the unseen that is more difficult.

Normal, what da ya mean? Ever heard of shifting base lines? The FA of both Liberty and Ptarmigan Ridges were made in Sept. Oct ascents were not that unusual. Of course ya gotta be a old fart to about the opportunity for nice fall ascents.

To my knowledge no one will rent ropes or harnesses as they are soft goods and it is not possible to insure their reliability. Guide services supply these for their clients but then again they are responsible for pretty much everything.

Whoa, way cool shop. Called them up and they had it. Should have them by le weekend. Thanks Bill.

A shot in the dark. Some how I have managed to misplace one of the U-bolts used to mount my Rocket Box to my rack. Yakima went to a new mounting system so they were of no help. I am hoping that perhaps someone in their collection of rack parts might have one or two from a long gone box. Oddly enough I have the thumb wheels for the bolt. Yakima made two versions of the U-bolt narrow and wide. I need the narrow version which is about 2" square with about 1" of thread on each end. One bolt is needed would take two plus thumb wheels. Thanks.

I got a similar ticket once while parking on the state highway right-a-way. At the court house I asked the FS officer to produce the law that said the feds could cite some one when their vehicle was on STATE land. I also asked them about how under the fee program they could cite a vehicle when the program was to collect fees from people. Which then led to my next question, though my vehicle was there they had no proof that I was. Further, if I had been there they had no proof I was recreating. My friend's trick. He would take the envelop and put the receipt portion in his window. Not wanting to litter he would put the empty envelop into the drop box. See the person who collects the fees is not the LEO who tickets the vehicles. So the left does not what is happening on the right. To the OP send a USPS certified letter with explanation to the court. Hopefully they will toss it.

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1031002/Mt_Hood#Post1031002

Well Yankee did get one thing right most climbers are a bunch of degenerates :-))). However most are not degenerate morons - though some are. Needless to say Sobo your post was a very nice response.

Viento Blanco !!! Got to love that!!

Always interesting on DC. FWIW when passing a group it is no different that passing on the highway. When there is no passing lane the group being over taken maintains their speed. The faster group passes in such a manner that they do not cause harm to others. So in this case IHMO you were spot on - have the other group cut the trail switch back while your group continues on (and if needed slow just a bit to let them finish). Further, they should cut the switch back in such a way that if they screw up and fall they fall past your group and not into your group. The last point is very important. I rarely pass anyone going up as we are typically on other routes but on the way down we are usually on one of the standard routes. We always pass on the low side. Besides preventing the fall hazard it prevents our rope from getting in the other groups way - especially if we are moving fast and have slack in places.

There can be a melt pond at Observation Rock. Otherwise nothing above it that I have seen on Ptarmigan especially as the bivy is on the ridge. I have found melt water at 10k on the N. Mowich at that bivy (which is not a standard bivy). I guess one could bivy at Observation get water and haul it with them to the bivy on the ridge.

I love the Spray Park approach, done that 3 times now. Nice shots of the rock variation (we went left and did the chute). Bummer about the AMS and tossing yer cookies. That sucks. But can relate as once I got sick from food poisoning or something fortunately though once I got to Sherman. The walk out sucked. BTW Stubbies on Rainier???? HAHAHA the weight savings is lost by the practical usage.

Actually the East Rib is quite safe especially if one takes the cut off. It has about as much objective danger as some of the other Rainier routes that I have been on. For instance, for many years Curtis Ridge was considered to be a dangerous route. However, we found reasonable rock (by Rainier standards) and very good climbing. BTW I find the descent down the DC to have quite a bit of objective danger. And more people have been injured and killed on it than the Willis.