ScaredSilly

Having been on the wall in early March we found very reasonable conditions as it had been a low snow year. What stopped us was high winds (viento blanco). You will spend more time on the approach than the climb. For us the biggest objective danger were the cracks. I can not remember the last time I fell into so many. At one point my partner and I both went in - albeit different cracks. After we bailed and got back down to the moraine the whole central face blew out.

Been there done that in much worse conditions. In fact, we did it as well 11 others in a 2 hour period. 9 of us holed up until conditions cleared - a group of 4 that split into two groups did not. Which resulted in a huge rescue.

Ugly links but ... http://www.fs.usda.gov/wps/portal/fsinternet/!ut/p/c4/04_SB8K8xLLM9MSSzPy8xBz9CP0os3gjAwhwtDDw9_AI8zPyhQoY6BdkOyoCAGixyPg!/?ss=110606&navtype=BROWSEBYSUBJECT&cid=stelprdb5191108&navid=120000000000000&pnavid=null&position=Not%20Yet%20Determined.Html&ttype=detail&pname=Mt.%20Hood%20National%20Forest-%20Alerts%20&%20Notices http://www.fs.usda.gov/wps/portal/fsinternet/!ut/p/c4/04_SB8K8xLLM9MSSzPy8xBz9CP0os3gjAwhwtDDw9_AI8zPyhQoY6BdkOyoCAGixyPg!/?ss=110606&navtype=BROWSEBYSUBJECT&cid=FSE_003828&navid=170120000000000&pnavid=170000000000000&position=BROWSEBYSUBJECT&ttype=detail&pname=Mt.%2520Hood%2520National%2520Forest-%2520Offices

When two pursuits are in conflict it is typically the new less established one that gets eliminated. Especially, when in this case where it has the great potential for mayhem to not only themselves but others. Most people doing swings, free falls, etc. have little to zero knowledge of the dynamics involved. First, it is a few climbers, next thing ya know it is some some kids with their mom's clothes line. I remember one of the first accidents with a bridge swing. The guy and ~4 others were going to swing together then drop into the water and be picked up by boat. He figured that because each weighed less than 200 lbs that 1250 lbs test cable would be good enough. The video shows the cable going ping right after the cable was fully loaded. Broken bodies and IIRC a death occurred. Not too mention a lawsuit.

~8.5-9mm x 40-60m is fairly typical for me for "mountaineering" routes.

This post should really be in access forum as well: http://www.ktvz.com/news/28500142/detail.html I hope the swinger has some personal liability insurance as they are probably going to need it.

Nice, but I do not see any mixed climbing. Just wandering between some crappy frozen in place volcanic rock :-).

Previous discussion ... http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/999961/1000_fine_for_out_of_bounds_sk#Post999961

I have a storm and a spot. Both are great lights. Much better than the mfg offerings.

You should contact WDFW and send them your picture. It might be very helpful if can be id as a griz. Which is does look like.

It is typically the sheriff (or if in a National Park the incident commander??) who will make the decision on whether a person is cited, which will then as part of conviction will require restitution of the rescue costs. I do believe there are few counties that can charge directly for a rescue. It is rarely done even went it should be

Similar avalanche in the Alps but with severe consequences: http://www.cnn.com/2011/WORLD/europe/06/26/france.alps.bodies/index.html?hpt=hp_bn2

Yes, sounds like they holed him up in the shrund before continuing on. The last report posted is not very encouraging.

More on CNN: http://www.cnn.com/2011/US/06/14/missing.climber/index.html?hpt=hp_t2

Finding gas will not be a problem. Snell's is probably the most frequented shop. Bring both your tools, leave the long ax at home. Instead bring a ski pole. One of the most popular excursions is the Chéré Couloir on Mt. Blanc Du Tacul. A nice little WI3 that now a days gets the shit beat out it. But if you want to do the Triple Cols it is a nice little warm up / acclimatization route. In fact, that is what I did, climbed the Chéré one morning after riding the telépherique up, relax that afternoon and when took a walk over to Mont Blanc the next morning.

Fly to Geneve take a shuttle bus to Cham. Leaves from the airport and dumps you off where you want in Cham. For a partner, goto the guides office and put a note in the book. I soloed the triple cols route years ago in late June and found the route not technically hard just a long day up high. The alps did not have much snow this winter and the spring was warm. As such, cracks and shrunds are open.

Thanks for the link on the weather station. Air if you are jonsing to get on Adams check out the west side. The Pinnacle Headway is a nice route. We did it last year from the Riley Trail. And it has reasonable access.

Dogs are fine, keep them on a leash and keep them quiet. May can be great or it can be the shits. Right now probably the shits as it has been very rainy in this part of the hood. As for routes, move around. Bread loaves can be very crowded.

Looks like a really bad case of genital warts with a bit of rash thrown in. Hope you brought good protection.

People have been climbing Hood and the rest of the Cascade peaks sans helmets way longer than you or the rest of us on this here spray forum could wipe yer azz. Get over it. BTW Not saying that it ain't a good idea but it is a choice. Unless someone is in immediate danger it is best to walk away with yer trap shut. If the person appears to be a beginner the best approach is to ask a question about what their up to. But even then it might not be taken well.

Interesting statement from REI. Very well crafted. What I suspect is that this case may be the first to test WA's law in this area (a private label and who is ultimately responsible). As such, the insurance company which will be the one who will ultimately pay are the ones pushing the issue. This case, IMHO seems no different that someone who sues Boeing over a plane crash. Boeing subs out many many parts. Boeing takes the hit and then goes after the sub. REI will probably have to do the same. Unfortunate, especially given that Monika has since died.

Uh, which mountain? There is more than one in Cascades.

An economy is fine, as said drive slow, use the berm, and watch out for hookers (they like to pull a trick once in a while).

If a local library wants them - consider donating them. I did that with my rag collection.

Many of guides are multi lingual but you will probably have a hard time finding some until you get there. Your best is to wait until you get there. As for Cham, drop into Snell's Sports as they probably have the best selection in town. Oh and if you rent a car, do not leave anything in them (not even in the boot), especially around the Calanques. Useless you want to have deal with it getting stollen.