KirkW

Thanks for the vote of confidence Hugh. I think in the end the facts of the situation will speak for themselves. Just like many of Krakauers other stories. Not sure why you guys still find him credible. But I'm just retarded or a fag or something I'm sure. More Have fun in your sandbox.

Well, considering I'm hanging around here discussing this with morons like you, I might be.

Having read all of Krakauers books and much of the shit storm that they have incited I can say that, while I don't think these allegations should be discounted outright, I think Mortenson deserves better than he's getting. None of this has been proven and 60 minutes didn't exactly do a solid piece of journalism in regards to this story. Most of Krakauers books have been disputed and rightfully so. His account of what happened on Everest doesn't even come close to matching that of the other people he climbed with. Into the wild was full of so many fabrications and twistings of the truth I would consider it a work of fiction. You could start with reading the coroners report and comparing it to the story told by JK. The Tillman book was nothing but a ton of accusations with no real evidence to back them up. Not that I believe the official line either and obviously what happened was real, real shitty but again JK just made up whatever he needed, to fill in the blanks. For him to go after Mortenson because his ghost writer did the same thing is just retarded and makes him a bigger hypocrite than I could have imagined. The media is having a field day with this but when compared to how most charities and large non-profits are run the CAI is pretty lean with a higher than average percentage of money going to help people than most organizations like this. As stated earlier much of the money spent to fly him around wasn't to market his book. It was to raise more money for the CAI. Which it did. So what's the problem?

Another vote for Ramuta's. Sent him three pairs including some OLD trashed La Sportiva high tops that I had a sentimental attachment to. Yes, I waited way to long. Had a conversation with him when he got them and he said he would do his best. In the end he decided that he couldn't save them because the heel cup had disintegrated but he shipped em' back to me (didn't charge me for shipping)with an apology. Looking them over I realized that he really had tried to fix them and had obviously spent a little time on them all ready when he decided it wasn't worth it. Never charged me a penny for those attempted repairs and the other two pair came back better than they both were the day I bought them. This was my first and only experience with him but I will send every shoe I need resoled to Ramuta's for as long as he is in business. Agree with Rudy...don't mess around...just send them to Ramuta's

Yeah...I agree...having a map and compass and knowing how to use it might be a good idea. Maybe.

You mean like this?

You don't pay for military rescues. The military regards civilian rescues as training and would be flying regardless. I have personally checked these facts with acquaintances who fly with Whidby Island Navy SAR. You are correct in that these hours are logged as training and they would be consuming taxpayers money regardless but they are still consuming taxpayers money so it not accurate to say that we aren't paying for it. I feel a more important issue than the misspent coin is the risks that SAR personnel are exposed to when they have to go bail someone out. From the article it sounds as though the rescuers in this situation had no easy time getting to these dudes. I wouldn't feel good about someone risking their life to "save" me from being cold and scared. Hypothermic, starving, injured, days over due etc. would be one thing, but "lost" on route not far from camp a few hours after crawling into a snow cave? Seriously? It is winter climbing in Alaska afterall. SAR was about to go after them on foot when the weather broke and they were able touch down with one wheel on the ridge after dumping gear and people lower on the mountain. Probably good "training" for the military but not very good PR for the climbing community. Once the weather broke what was stopping these guys from walking down to their camp and hauling it out? What was going on to justify the helicopter heroics? I wish I could find more information about this rescue because I know there is good reason to with hold my criticisms of these two men personally. I don't know them and I don't know what went on but the facts as presented are worthy of discussion in my opinion. I think Bills point is that the more we look to government to solve these issues for us the more government is going to tell us what, when , where and how to climb. Which would only be fair if we start using SAR as a magic carpet to wisk us away from (rather minor in this case)consequences of making stupid choices in the hills. I'm not in favor of getting rid of SAR I just think that we as climbers have to view it as a last possible solution to the problems we create for ourselves in the mountains and premature use of a PLB that initiates an unneeded rescue should have a negative consequence. Maybe getting a public thrashing on the internet is enough?

I would personally be fine with getting rid of the entire military as it exists today. We should recall all of our National Guard and use them for what they were intended for. Ya know...as in guarding our nation instead of fighting wars for oil companies. We could bring home most of the rest of the military scattered across the globe too and in their place create an armed forces that is actually designed to protect the citizens of the united states instead of just making more money for all ready ridiculously filthy rich 1% that now controls them... but that is a little off topic I guess. Calling for a "rescue" because you are cold and had to sleep in a snow cave is like calling the fire department to your home to put out a fire you started on your own bbq and then decided you couldn't be bothered to close the lid on. When we look to techno gadgets to take the place of good skills and sound judgement, government intervention cannot be far behind, if for no other reason than the fact that insurance companies are sure to be involved and they will lobby whomever they need to stack the legal deck in their favor to insure the highest profit margin possible. No thanks, Id rather depend on my partner and my compass.

+1 The article in the link quotes the rescuers as describing them as "experienced" and not at all bumbling gumbies. It was however the first trip with their new battery powered insurance policy. They lost their way because of 4 ft of snow, dug a cave and activated their beacon. Nice! Risk free winter climbing in alaska. It's gonna be the next big thing.

...for your next alpine adventure? Waterproof jeans with integrated GPS as well as PLB enhanced cotton hoody are now required gear for anyone going above 7000 ft. Thank you for your compliance.

Pardon my ignorance but google turned up nothing and I've never heard of enchanted hooks before. What are they?

Several of my past posts beg to differ with this statement. Glad I'm not the only one making judgments about people without knowing them now! I hope you're OK with the idea that I might have a different opinion than you? Never was questioning Alex's ability to free solo ice either, but since you brought it up what grade of ice should I be capable of free soloing before I post in the newbies forum again? We tell newbies that it's a walk in the park and then flame them when they post a TR. HB, yes I'm acting like a child, I think the newbies forums are supposed to be free of this crap. Sorry. Anyway, hope you have fun on your trip whatever you end up doing. As others have said, read FOTH and practice before you climb. Climbing a volcano is pretty straight forward and I'm sure you're capable of it if you have the drive to do it. Most people are, but you'd be amazed at how utterly simple it is to screw it up. DO IT but don't underestimate it. My point earlier is that some of these guys on here have been doing this so long and are actually pretty incredible climbers who've forgotten more experience than I've had in my 5 years of climbing. Problem is that I think they have forgotten some of what it's like to be new to the sport. I moved to Oregon 6 years ago from the midwest having never been a climber,hiker or anything else outdoors. I knew less than nothing about mountains because most of what I thought I knew was wrong. Maybe you won't be as awestruck as I was but they were way more intimidating to me in person than they were in photos I'd looked at online. 6 years later I've climbed most of them in OR and a hand full of them in other states. If my fat dumb ass can accomplish this I have no doubts most people are capable of it. Just be safe and don't bite off more than you know you can chew.

Thank you for stating this with more tact than I posses. Wasn't trying to start a pissing match with the hardmen on this forum. Sorry to DPS, Alex and anyone else I might have offended by questioning your "wisdom."

The irony is staggering. So I'll take that to mean you stand by your previous suggestion that someone from the flatlands with no mountaineering experience should try to do Baker or Adams in a day?

So not trying to flame you here but maybe this is an indicator that you are getting yourself in over your head? If you don't have a clue and have to ask 5 pages of questions about climbing mount Adams, Baker or any of the other easier volcanoes then I might suggest picking a little different adventure for this trip. No Adams or Baker isn't really that difficult but it's pretty obvious at this point that it's a little more than you are prepared for. Climbing cannot be learned off the internet. You have to go out and do it. Mother nature doesn't give a shit about what kind of pack you have or what boots are on your feet. The single best resource you can bring with you is a calm rational outlook and a willingness to let the experience be what it is and not what you've made it out to be in your head. I think some of the people on this board are setting you up for a major disappointment when you actually get out here and find out what climbing volcanoes is all about. Several of the people offering you advice seem to really get off on giving free advice to noobs over the internet.Remember that free advice is worth exactly as much as you paid for it. It's fun to help new people get into the sport, but alot of the advice they are giving you is based on a boatload of assumptions that they are making about you. Nowhere in this thread has anyone asked you about your back ground or your skill set. I would NEVER suggest to a total noober from out of the area that trying to climb Baker in a day without a competent skilled partner or guide is a good idea. That's just fucking ridiculous! I must also disagree with the idea that Hood is a great "first" volcano for a complete noober from out of state. That might be the dumbest thing I've ever seen posted on this site. It is NOT a walkup as many would have you believe. It's not hard but just google "hood accident" and see what you find. Sorry to be a grouchy asshole but this thread made me cringe when I read it. Whatever you decide to do I hope it goes well and you have some fun!

I think you are onto something here. I wrapped my hiking poles with athletic tape about two years ago and it's still running strong. You'd be surprised at how burly that shit is. I only put on a single layer since I was only wanting to make them more grippy when I grabbed them below the handle but I'd imagine a couple three layers of athletic or "climbers" tape if you want to pay too much for it, would add a fair amount of insulation. Of course if it's really cold out you should just put on your gloves sooner. Posting this question to the ice climbers on the board might also generate a few more ideas. I'm sure Dane's got more than a few suggestions.

If you are referring to the route at Smith that goes by that name I might suggest checking the newer Smith Guide. Written by this dude named Watts or something. You might have heard of him?

That photo is CRAZY! How could something like that get past quality control?

Sweet! Can't wait to get on this thing.

I realize this is probably a long shot but... I'm looking for a gently used Misty Mountain Cadillac. The REI monthly special Mammut sport climbing harness purchased 6 years ago just ain't gettin it done anymore. I sure am gonna miss those flames on the waistbelt though. Would consider a couple of other light duty aid harnesses but am really hoping to find a Cadillac. Will need a size L as the new years resolution seems to have been forgotten all ready. PM or email fascistnation at gmail dot com. Thanks!

If by "good dr. flash amazing" you mean me...I was in high school and my first round of college. I was not out putting up epic routes at Beacon or Hamilton or anyplace else. Didn't start climbing until a couple years ago. I've got some photos of me from the 90's if anyone's interested in seeing them. I did get scared and pulled on a bolt hanger on a 5.8 this weekend in the Callahans though. Does that make me a bad person too?

Mostly in the early to mid 90's, then off and on since then. Then a friend and I did quite a few of the aid routes back in 03-05 when we where training for a harder aid route on the capitain. Alot of that was done in shitty weather just like Ivan. My socks still have not dried out Cheers Perhaps you will post photos and I'll have to apologize for this but... bullshit. How many fake screen names do you have?

Sorry dude but your rope is total shit at this point. You better send it to me so that I can destroy it for you.

So in other words you and your buddies are looking for a guide that will work for free? How about either not climbing the mountain until you got the skills or actually paying for a guide to drag your sorry ass up there?