KirkW

total sick gnarness

Way more snow and ice on that summit block than when we were out there a few weeks before. The summit block was spicy but still very doable with only one standard axe and no pons. Looks like you might have had a little more fun with those conditions!

So I've looked through the various threads here and at a few other sites but I can't seem to find a consensus anywhere on who the best re-soler in the area is. I'd prefer to stay local (willamette valley) but if I have to ship em a ways that's fine too...as long as it's done right. Any recommendations?

http://www.adn.com/2010/05/19/1286141/attitude-sickness-halted-denali.html That's it...mandatory MLU, PLB, Cell and Sat. phone AND rescue insurance. I wonder if that insurance covers being a whiny little bitch?

Steve, I completely agree with you here. Sorry Rob that you don't want us talking about this and sorry if it hurts anyone's feelings but it sounds to me like someone fucked up. Original story was that TWO properly placed cams failed leading to a grounder. Looks to me like this is more a case of a belayer dropping the leader. I'm not trying to flame these two but if that's the story then this "two pieces popped but the one at my knees held and I only took a 30 ft whipper"!?!? story is just something to cover up a bruised ego. No one wants to admit to something like this and I'd really like to hear the story from the horse's mouth but don't get all pissy that we're asking questions about this story because it just doesn't add up. Sounds like she fucking dropped him. Nuff said. If they have something to add I would love to hear it. If you don't want it scrutinized then I might suggest not posting it on CC.

That thing get run over by a car or did you drop it a few thousand feet?

I immediately thought the same thing myself. Not making any judgments here but as I'm fairly new to trad I'm curious to hear more about this. How could a fall onto a piece at your knees on the 2nd pitch result in a ground fall if the belayer holds the fall? Something doesn't make sense. The forces on the other two pieces that popped were basically TR falls? Sorry if rehashing this bothers anyone I'm just curious and I hope everyone involved recovers quickly!

I think I've heard that campfire story before and was asking for verification of it because I didn't believe before and I don't believe now that Metolius would admit such a thing even if it were true. I'm a sissy and I place gear damn near as often as I can get it. If every third piece is gonna fail on me I need a much, much bigger rack.

I agree. Would you mind enlightening us where you heard that Metolious stated that it's product would fail 30% of the time when used properly? If this is true I'm taking up golf.

The Big Lebowski is a funny movie. Am I wrong? no offense intended

[video:youtube]

Of all the advice in this thread I think this is the best and most appropriate course of action. Eiger Sanction is the one to watch to become a true hardman though. If you thought you were ready you wouldn't be here asking if other people think you're ready. Listen to that voice in your head. It will keep you alive. Memorizing freedom of the hills and reading TRs until 3 in the morning doesn't constitute experience. Of course you knew all of this all ready.

...but I was out early this morning and I chopped 'em all.

Sweet...I made it into a plaidman article! Thanks for letting us play through on First Kiss. Sorry if we were climbing up your ass on the first two pitches. We were kinda on a mission that day. Glad you and your wife didn't epic out there when the deluge started. We bailed off the monkey and saw you guys on the last pitch. Didn't look like you were having any fun but by the sounds of it you and your wife made the best of it. Nice work! Mike appreciated the advice about the belay device too. Crazy fawker is pulling 10c trad but didn't know his belay device worked that way! Youth is wasted on the young.

The best way to keep a new crag secret is post it on the internet and then act secretive when people ask you about it.

Are you reminding me of this rule or needtoclimb? My whole point was that he was being a dick and should take his judgmental attitude someplace other than the climbing partners forum. But thanks for the reminder

He didn't say he wouldn't climb with anyone that is straight he just posted that he's looking for a gay/bi climber. Why the flaming? I'm sure he wants to climb with others of the same sexual orientation only because he's tired of listening to the typical gay bashing, homophobic, macho bullshit. I can't blame him for not wanting to be insulted and feeling like he's being judged constantly. It takes a lot of courage to post what he did since society likes to judge him for the way he was born. Good on him for having the balls to post in this forum. No reason to be a fucking asshole to him.

No.I meant ft. I heard it from this guy coming down the pearly gates and as you can clearly see...he's a professional. Sorry to post this photo again but it gets funnier every time I look at it.

Yet you failed to recommend a shovel, probe, beacon, and avilung. Amateur. You don't need any of that shit when you got a tauntaun. Don't you know anything? All of them are guaranteed to find you in an avalanche within 5 minutes or your money back. I guess your not one of the cool kids that can afford the expensive beasts. As far as carrying O2...yeah I'd say that's a good idea considering I've heard that you can get AMS at anything above 3000 ft. Of course carrying everything up may require a second pack tauntaun. I guess if you got the cash and don't mind springing for a second one you might as well. Just to be on the safe side.

Don't mention it. I'm a fountain of stellar beta on Mt Hood. Ask any time. Although I should probably mention at this point that I've never summited. I've tried twice but it was cold and windy so I turned around. I've read every TR on summit post that mentions hood though so I consider myself an expert. Have fun out there.

Temperament of all you youngins? Sorry I like bomber anchors Gandolf. Please explain to the class how the OPs picture is a good idea for a top rope anchor that's gonna be yarded on all day by a group of flailing nooblets? Oh and your chockstone looks bomber to me. Somewhat different scenario though considering you weren't teaching a class at the time and your rock actually looks to be IN the crack. Fucking Furyans. Defiant to the end.

Bump because Mt Hood is kinda big and scary and stuff.

Yes...you will most certainly be needing a rope in the old chute. At least a 70m 11mm or something similar. 6 or 7 friends to attach to the rope at widely spaced intervals with lots of slack in between. At least 5 pickets, a full rack of screws and three ice tools (just in case you drop one). Don't forget the MLU, the PLB, the GPS and last but not least your cell phone so you can call for rescue if you get benighted above the palmer and the batteries in your PLB and MLU are dead frozen and you can't find your way down in the dark. Bivy gear is a must but I'm assuming you all ready know this. Of course the hip thing to do right now is just sleep in your tauntaun but that does tend to clog the pores of your gortex and diminish it's efficiency at repelling water. I guess you'll have to make the call. Good luck... the conditions should be perfect right now.

I don't have anything to say I just thought that Oregon could use one more thread about Mt Hood.