Jump to content

miker

Members
  • Content count

    194
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About miker

  • Rank
    member
  • Birthday 10/17/1971

Converted

  • Occupation
    Engineer
  • Location
    Camas, WA
  1. Well done brave rockanouts!! Injuries notwithstanding, sounds like a proper spring break extravaganza.
  2. Good times. The only thing to damper my climbing adrenalin is the officer yelling down from the road. "You OK?? Thumbs up or down!!" Dude! I can't feel my thumbs, much less point them up or down while holding on two 2 ice axes. Thanks for worrying though.
  3. It was an honor and a privilege. My favorite moment was when I had my gri-gri tied into the death end tail of the rope during the rapel and the frission of light and noise in my brain when I saw that was amazing.
  4. Post climb gear sort extraordinaire. [img:left]http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/426847_3885821217800_1899635399_n.jpg[/img] I will try to get some pics uploaded to CC if the linked FB pics are an issue.
  5. Trip: Yosemite National Park - Lurking Fear, 5.7 C2F, Grade VI, El Capitan Date: 7/6/2012 Trip Report: Climbed Lurking Fear July 6-9th with Ivan and Tvashvarkena. July 2-Tvash arrives at my doorstep at 4AM. Luckily enough the youngest had just woken me up. We crashed for a couple more hours until we had light to pack up the car and jet for Yosemite. Arrived at Hardin Flats late that evening. July 3-Drove into the valley and hit Camp 4 to find Ivan who is sitting relaxing after being fed breakfast by the neighboring Romanians. Hump load up to base of Lurking Fear and cache water. Ivan had already fixed the first 2 pitches solo the day before. Rest in river and grab big pizza. [img:left]http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/534949_3885704094872_1246805295_n.jpg[/img] July 4-First hitch in the plans when we discover a bear has damaged some water bottles and destroyed most of Ivan's food. Ivan and I fix to pitch 4 while Tvash repairs Ivans bear shredded thermarest pad. Ivan hikes out to get more food and water.(unknown to us he also hiked out half of Tvash's food in a trash bag and throws it away...) July 5-Aborted launch attempt. We realize the load is too big for 5 days of water and food for 3 guys. We decide to fix to 6 and do 3 days on the wall with only a single portaledge to supplement existing ledges. Tvash and Ivan fix 5 and 6. I hike out the extra portaledge and some trash. Bags repacked for new plan. July 6-2:30 A.M Launch!! Climb to pitch 10, I finish 10 in the dark and swing over to the "OK" bivy ledge which I share with Tvash that night. Ivan wrestles with the Elder Gods or at least an unstable portaledge most of the night, losing the fight as far as I could tell by the cloud of goosedown in the air. [img:left]http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/382401_3885792217075_603090040_n.jpg[/img] [img:left]http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/582060_3885789817015_923523543_n.jpg[/img] [img:left]http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/552258_3885968181474_1337979923_n.jpg[/img] July 7-Climb to pitch 14 after caching extra rope and the portaledge at 10. Swapping leads with Ivan as Tvash plays bag monkey. Ok bivy for the 3 of us on a natural ledge. [img:left]http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/295466_3885795177149_1774689779_n.jpg[/img] [img:left]http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/532457_3885803497357_877255521_n.jpg[/img] July 8-3 pitches to Thanksgiving Ledge and after an hour or two of relaxing we finish to the top of pitch 19 and hang out up on the shoulder of El Capitan before going back down to the ledge. July 9-7 hours to rap to the ground down the route. I was the advance scout, zipping down a single fixed line to set up the next anchor before the double ropes were pulled and setup again. Saved on crowds at the anchors. Out of the woods and into the river before we run to the Pines campsite we had reserved. Route comments- Excellent route with mostly straightforward aid. First time I have finished an El Cap route. We closed down El Capitan as it was mid to high 80's on the ground and no one seemed to be climbing on the big stone but our small crew Lurking in the shadows for the first half of each day. A party of three does add to the complexity, ropes, haul weight etc, but having a third to manage the bag while the leader shortfixed when possible was fairly efficient. I seemed to get the majority of the hooking pitches as well as the Grand Traverse(still waiting for a good picture of this) Tvash got the 80 foot of consistent 4-5 inch crack and quickly learned how to run it out. Thanksgiving Ledge is amazing and allowed us to to actually take off our harnesses for a while. After a rest day we decided to go climb in Tuolomne to avoid the heat. West Crack on DAFF was fun, I have not done that in 11 years, but you have never heard so much whining from a group of hardmen. My feet hurt! So tired! blah blah blah. We all agreed that it was time to go home and headed out. Stopping at some amazing natural hot springs in Cali to soak out some of the soreness. [img:left]http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/375739_3885808377479_1951792517_n.jpg[/img] [img:left]http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/168867_3885809177499_1322147763_n.jpg[/img] [img:left]http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/531298_3885813177599_2010710065_n.jpg[/img] [img:left]http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/487210_3885815697662_1607420715_n.jpg[/img] What to climb next? Zodiac? Nose? Aquarian? Gear Notes: Used small cams extensively, especially blue/yellow offset. Did not use beaks as topo mentioned. Also found the distance from the lowest rap anchor was just barely 60m, making it impossible to haul on a single static rope from the ground without having to pass a knot. And pitches 18 and 19 can not and should not be linked as a single pitch to the bolts. It is at least 250 ft. Approach Notes: Long with fixed ropes, but nothing impossible.
  6. Well Sheeit!! Sounds like you manned up. Probably shoulda just climbed....
  7. Sweet ramblings there ivan. Wish I coulda been there.
  8. I am all over this! If Ivan goes first I know I can fit... Looks like much fun had by all.
  9. Bump? Heading for the Valley, see ya'll later. Forecast is for 75 and beautiful on Monday...
  10. OK, I will be in the valley Oct 16-19(North Pines) and am hoping to get up something reasonably long and proud for my 40th birthday(Monday October 17). My possible list of climbs to celebrate my 40th birthday includes from easier to harder: Royal Arches to North Dome (I have climbed arches) Snake Dike (Did the approach hike, but couldn't find route) East Buttress of Middle Cathedral (never been on it) A one or two day aid route if weather is an issue.(Have done 1/3 of the Nose and Leaning Tower and South Face of WA Column.) I am open to other ideas and will obviously reassess based on weather limitations. I am not necessarily looking for a ropegun, but would want a competent Yosemite climber, preferably 40 or over to set the proper "old school" feel. I may have a couple friends along, but most are busy in October. Drop me a message if you might be interested in hooking up. Miker
  11. You guys are rock stars!! Way to hold your shit together through it all.
  12. Kiss my Discovery Pass

    Well time to go volunteer for some trail work and get me a discovery pass. I like the Washington Trails Association-Volunteer organization for trail maintenance. Isn't this what the Discovery Pass should pay for? Sigh
  13. Most excellent adventures!! I can't believe you did not invite me...oh yeah, you did, I suck.
  14. I can't believe I had never climbed that. Fun stuff even when I wandered the wrong way on the crusty rock and scared myself. Feels sorta like raping the rock when you monkey up those spikes. Via Ferratta!!
×