KirkW

Why does RuMR still have an account here? He most certainly should have been banned yesterday for his previous post and instead of apologizing he continues with the barag for cursing and personal insults. I thought this kind of thing wasn't going to be tolerated around here? Even in spray. How do I get on this list of protected CC members? I want to be able to post personal attacks on here too.

JRay, We parked at the Pamelia lake TH. (don't forget your permit) The only rock we encountered had an easterly exposure on the crest of the ridge. I didn't have to do any digging to find the rock but much digging and hacking with the tools went on to clear a path over one of the three bulges we climbed directly on the crest. I'm sure that everything we climbed is now melted out. The West face or "Standard" route up the Pinnacle was completely covered in snow and rime. NO rock showing through anywhere and the rime seemed to be decomposing quickly. We soloed the lower easy ramps on the N side of the W face and climbed one mixed pitch directly up the crest of the ridge to the summit finding pro mostly with small rock gear. I place only one picket on the summit pitch but I think pickets would have worked too if you were willing to take the time to set them properly. Leave the screws at home. I was really nervous about climbing the Pinnacle as I'd heard so many horror stories but in the end it turned out to actually be pretty mellow (that day) and LOTS of fun. Don't have any idea what the recent weather is going to do to these conditions but I doubt they are going to be kind. I would also recommend being prepared to downclimb the summit pinnacle unless things have changed dramatically up there. Rapping off was out of the question without resorting to a significant amount of shenanigans. Have fun!

Mr. RuMR whom I've never met: Have you read the new site guidelines about conduct and personal attacks? Time to reassess your behavior and learn to address alternative perspectives in a civil manner. Moderators...please send him packing! Or do the rules not apply to RuMR? Just looking for a clarification so I know who is allowed to personally attack people on this website and who isn't. I don't always agree with Raindawg but he does have the right to express his opinion as much as the next person. Regardless of whether or not he's good friends with the mods.

Thanks!

Anyone been into the crater recently? Wondering if 9 and 11 o'clock are still full of snow (I'm assuming they are) and how close we can get with the truck.

Trip: Mt. Jefferson - West Rib Date: 6/24/2011 Trip Report: We decided to take advantage of what looked to be a nice drop in the freezing level on Thursday night and go take a peek at the West Rib of Jefferson. We didn't have high hopes of summiting but we were both itching to get out and decided we'd at least get up on the Rib and see how things were. Adam (thanks for all the photos) figured he'd at least get a couple good shots of the upper mountain and a nice ski down. The clouds kept the sun and temps at bay for most of the approach and as promised the weather cooled substantially by the time we set up camp just above treeline. We got to watch a spectacular sunset and tried to get a little sleep. We left camp around 2:30 on firm snow. Things got better and more solid the higher we went but the rime formations we encountered lower on the rib were not confidence inspiring. Looking down the route at our camp lost in the clouds far below us. Sunrise caught us still enjoying the climbing and the view well below the summit pinnacle. We got to the base of the pinnacle around 7:30 and made our way up the easy snow chutes on the northern side of the west face to gain the crest of the north ridge. Not being impressed with the condition of the rime on the west face I was happy to find a little exposed rock on the east side of the crest mixed with what looked like solid enough snow and only one short section of rime leading up towards the summit. To my surprise the rock I encountered seemed quite solid and ate what little rock pro I had. There was however, no ice anywhere near Mt. Jefferson that was interested in taking any of the screws I carried up there. The crux of the ridge was having to excavate a path through a small rimey cornice that had formed directly over a smooth boulder on the east face but it really wasn't too bad. I cautiously crawled up over the final bulge on the ridge and walked onto the summit at around 8:45 somewhat astonished to be where I was. It was a little later than we had hoped to be up there so we wasted no time in getting on with things. Leaving the pro in place Adam made quick work of the ridge and joined me on the summit. He quickly snapped one of the best hero shots I've ever seen... ...and downclimbed the route reclipping the pro. The downclimbing went better than I was fearing and we were both soon back at the belay, admiring the North Ridge and planning a future trip. On the way down, we paused a moment, to check out the Traverse I've heard so much about. The snow on the traverse looked fine but the rime hanging directly above it would have given me a bit of a pause, considering the rate at which it seemed to be melting all ready and it wasn't even in the sun yet. The amount of chandelier ice falling off of the Pinnacle was tremendous and by the time we were out of it's fall line we were both noticing an increase in the size of the ice chunks hurling by on a regular basis. The decent of the Rib went well enough but eventually the sun caught up with us and made for a slushy trudge down the final slopes for me but provided Adam with some excellent corn on the lower portion of the Rib where he had stashed his skis on the way up. We took our time getting out and paused for a while at the Milk Creek crossing to enjoy the excellent view as well as a couple of cold beverages we had stashed in the snow on the way in. Overall this turned out to be one of the finest volcano climbs I've done. A super fun route with a solid partner and perfect weather. After all the asskickings Adam and I've had from the Oregon Cascades It's nice to have it all come together once in a while. Gear Notes: Never having been up there and not really knowing what we'd encounter we brought the kitchen sink. 60m of dental floss. Couple small hexes, couple small tricams, a lost arrow, and a nut. 3 screws and 3 pickets (ridiculous...I know). Way too much cordage, slings and webbing. Good training I guess. I pretty much sewed up the parts of the ridge that scared me with a lost arrow, the nut, everyone's favorite tricam and a single picket. It ended up being just a couple meters shy of 60. Trying to rappel off would have been a stupid, dangerous and time consuming adventure. We both had one standard axe and a second technical hammer and found them quite useful on most of the route and indispensable on the one roped pitch. I almost took two technical tools and that would have been a big mistake. Flotation was really nice to have in the afternoons but we could have lived without it. at Milk Creek! Approach Notes: We pondered our options for quite awhile before deciding on how to gain the ridge at Milk Creek. In the end we opted to follow the north fork to the finger of snow that we could see. This was based on beta I found on CC and contrary to Oregon High. We found a blazed path on the north side of the gully complete with cairns and flagging tape. Seriously.

Fair enough. Don't remember those being there but they are far enough away that I probably didn't notice them or pay any attention. Might have been there for years for all I know. If that is indeed where they are then I would find it hard to say that someone has retro bolted SS. Are these the bolts that the OP is talking about?

Who's angry? sickie sickie

No jefe, It is a big deal to some of us when dbags retrobolt classic EASY trad lines. Not sure if this constitutes a squeeze job as they were not there a couple months ago and I haven't seen it. Just because you don't seem to give a shit if every single chunk of stone in Oregon gets bolts doesn't mean the rest of the climbing community feels the same way about it. Your "It's no big deal" attitude is bullshit.

Two cold, dehydrated, hungry, exhausted and, by that time, frightened climbers dragging 200+ lbs of non responsive climbing partner off Lib Ridge at 13,500 in 50 mph winds? How's about we wait to second guess until at least a couple of facts about this come out? Yeah...it's been a pretty grim year so far. Be careful out there.

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Thanks! Weather allowing we're gonna give it another go this week.

Nicely done! Thanks for the pics of the bowling alley. Looks like we missed out on a good time. I gotta get me some of those ski things you were using. How was the traverse?

Wow...$21.75 and hr plus I'd get 1099'd on it. Sounds like a super good deal (for you). I'm assuming I'd have to bring all my own tools and provide a truck. Do I get to pay for nails and debris disposal too? I love how remodel work has now become the domain of the "handyman". Fast and cheap. Just like walmart.

East slopes are still pretty loaded with snow and the conditions on the ridge were highly varied. First photo taken just before sunrise and the snow was all ready starting to soften up. The second was taken a couple hours later just in front of the camels hump. We weren't moving fast enough but conditions on the west side still seemed good, but everything seemed pretty good...until the sun hit it. We bailed and made an interesting and hasty decent off the south ridge. Off the mountain and wading through slush with snow shoes by midmorning. We left at midnight and still didn't get to the traverse early enough. Maybe next time.

Got a question about Mt Hood and unable to find the answer using the Search Function? Post 'em up here and someone will, without a doubt, be more than happy to answer it for you. Please keep this thread SPRAY FREE no matter how silly the question might seem to you. If we all play nice we might even be able to get the mods to make us our very own Hood forum! Be safe out there!

I think you should post this in the partners forum for starters. Perhaps then watch the partners forum and contact one of the dozens of other people that share your exact same dilemma?

better luck here?

I drove to within 200 yards of the junction with 2160 last saturday. The first 1/4 mile of trail was mostly snow free. It's gonna melt out fast. Get some. If you head out there post up if you check out 2149 past the turn off for the south ridge. Curious about access to corigan lake th.

Could we please get a list of people that it's OK to flame outside of spray and who is on the mods "protected" list? Telling someone to mind their own business when they spray about how they disapprove of others choices in the mountains is not allowed, while flaming the shit out of Kevbone for asking a valid CLIMBING RELATED question is fine? What gives? I'm having trouble understanding what the rules of this site are. Did I not get a memo?

Thanks for the public service announcement Joe. Where can I send donations to help you in your crusade to make sure all climbers on hood are wearing the proper attire? You wouldn't happen to know where I can get a helmet with a built in solar powered PLB? Integrated video camera would be sweet! I could get footage of all the people on hood that I'm better than. I've got a hood climb coming up in August and I've read I should have both. Safety first!

\ Can I borrow your drill? (take it easy Paul, I'm just kidding)

I think freeing chossy A2 is more your cup of tea but I'd be happy terrified to give the offwidth a shot if I can borrow a couple of your bigger cams. We'll have to get on it this fall. I was thinking hexes for Chopper anyway Mark cause the idea of falling on a cam wedged behind that flake makes me pee myself a little bit. Of course I'm assuming Chopper is the kind of route that falling on at all would be a very bad idea.

That's why I was having trouble seeing the detached flake in the photo and wondering why it didn't look like I remembered it looking. Maybe I should be over trolling the hood threads instead of looking for beta on shit I'm not gonna climb. Thanks for clearing that up for me. I'll make sure I get the right photo off my climbing partners camera next time. Have you done either of them or know if they get climbed much? Just curious how often that flake gets tugged on. I'm sure I'll puss out once I get up there but sounds like some of that other stuff is worth looking into. Desiderata sounds like fun and it even ends with an off width move or two. Perfect! I also noticed (kinda hard to miss it) D.A.R. Crack and despite Watt's description I want to go take a closer look at it. How bad is the rock?

5.8 line on Staender ridge. Looks fun and Watts gave it three stars in the old book but I'm easily frightened and not interested in cashing in my chips yet. The giant detached flake that you can't really see that well in this photo looked way worse in person than it does to me now. I'm trying to talk myself out of hiking up there again and any discouragement would be appreciated. Any other worthwhile, easyish trad lines up that way that I shouldn't miss if I actually am stupid enough to take my gear for a walk again? Wondering specifically about Staender ridge and the other rarely visited rocks that are close by.