Skeezix

I'd like to answer MountaingirlBC's question about the difference between a National Park and a National Forest. Many people in our own country aren't clear about the difference, but it's a big difference. It has to do with management priorities. National Forest is managed for "multiple uses" such as recreation, logging, mining, etc. Some would characterize National Forest management as "multiple abuses," as National Forests often contain more roads, clearcuts, and other signs of heavy human impact. National Forest Rangers, however, have pretty cool uniforms. The National Forest is old school, at least compared to the National Park Service. Some of the most beautiful wild areas in the contiguous 48 states are on Forest Service land --most afforded a high level of protection as wilderness. National Parks include most of the most dramatically beautiful wild areas, such as Yosemite, Yellowstone, Grand Canyon, Grand Teton, Rainier, the North Cascades. We won't get into the "cannon ball" parks back east, never mind about those... National Parks generally enjoy a higher level of protection --at least the wild parks of the western U.S. The management priority of National Parks is to preserve the resource while providing for the enjoyment of the parks by visitors. This is a tricky balancing act that seeks to allow recreation while minimizing impact. Hunting is allowed in National Forests, but not in National Parks. National Forests are part of the Federal Department of Agriculture. Think crops ...of trees. National Parks, on the other hand, are managed by the Department of the Interior. I know this is probably pretty confusing to Canadians. But it's mostly true.

I had my identity stolen from computer records at Central Washington University after I took a summer course there. Some guy on the faculty harvested a bunch of ids off the computer, married the males with the females, made up offspring, and applied for social security for the kids. I received a letter from a prosecutor in Seattle because the schmuck got caught. No financial impact on me, but it certainly took me by surprise! I now own a shredder, but one can only do so much to protect oneself.

I like that picture. That guy kicks.

If the couloir is dicey you can scramble easy ledges to the left of the couloir. Very light rack for the ridge. Easy to protect.

You need a better log-in name. How about Elmo Fury?

Bob Nielsen and Jizz Bucket Dave

Zzzzzzzzzzz...

When I started climbing back in the 70s my image of climbers was that we were counterculture. Kind of like enlightened climbing hippies. There were certainly heroes like chouinard, but I didn't obsess on his hero image. I do remember feeling superior to anyone that wasn't a climber, though I tried not to show it. I definitely pick up a lot of that latter vibe on this site though. And I generally agree with Mike. And that Mox Peak thing was sick!

Woooohhhh, ohhhhhhh, the Israelites!

Ken Lay had George Bush on speed dial.

How about hiking up Snow Lakes Trail and in over the Lost World Plateau to approach the Mole from that side? Can anyone relate their experience with that area?

No you don't. Bass is the best. When I was in a band back in the day, I got to switch off and play bass in one set. Bass is really fun to play. We had one song that started out with a guitar intro over six bars, and the bass held off. I used to watch people in the audience, and when I got to drop in on the seventh bar with the bottom end, people would start twitching involuntarily, then they'd break out dancing. It was an autonomic response when that bottom end dropped into their belly. Deep groove, baby. There's nothing more satisfying than riding that at the controls of a Fender Jazz Bass. You dont suck in Cafe Sensitivo, cause playing bass , and you .

I own a custom Koa Scheerhorn Weissenborn-style acoustic lap steel guitar upon which I perform weak imitations of David Lindley and Ben Harper. I also play normal guitar, abnormal guitar, a little mandola here, a little djembe there. And I own an open-back banjo, but I can't play it, despite having the best intentions to learn clawhammer.

Now we're sprayin'!!

We might be posting a job at my high school on the Olympic Peninsula soon. What are you looking for? PM me...

Fred Beckey

ooh-ooh-ooh-ooh-ooh ah-aah-aah-aaaaagggh-aaaaaaaaggghhhhh

Oh...Lord of the Flies! Symbolism 101.

We're in. What are the shoes that kid in the top photo is wearing?

Class of '74. I did spend a day in Munich but not Dachau. I was teaching skiing at the Armed Forces Rec Center Garmish-Partenkirchen. I saw Phil Mahre win the Kandahar World Cup Giant Slalom there in '79. And Paali Sitonen win the Konigslauf 90K at Oberammergau. As U.S. Army skiers, our motto was "We ski to keep America free!"

Not sure what Ivan means by above the basin, but if you cross over Sharkfin Col and camp on the Boston Glacier you will be in a different xc zone for permitting. That would be feasible for you and your brother... but it makes for a very long first-day approach and means you have to carry over Forbidden or descend a north side route instead of the West Ridge. And Sharkfin Col is loose rock city. A non-permitted stealth camp in the Basin is a poor bet. Better to have a back-up plan to go climb elsewhere. If you arrive in Marblemount on a day other than Saturday, you greatly increase your odds of getting a permit for the basin. And Beckey for a guidebook...

Have a couple of kids. Take them climbing...!

Thanks...of course. I saw him at Weisbaden after the Army shipped me over to Germany. Ahhhh Garmisch!

Based on the terrain you've already covered and your description of ability and desire... I'd rule out Logan. It's a worthy climb but not a highlight. I'd recommend the following choices ("Mostly snow with a bit of rock/exposure towards the top"): 1. Forbidden Peak - climb the N Ridge or NW Face and descend the West Ridge (Or just go ahead and do the damn West Ridge - you'll love it). 2. Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys and the Southeast Corner of the Summit Pyramid (avoid the S Face of the Summit Pyramid...) 3. North Ridge of Baker ...or an easier route on Baker. Get the volcano experience under your belt without the relatively committing extra 4000' of Rainier. You're gonna have a great trip.

When I was in the Army in 1978 I lived in a Quonset Hut at Huckleberry Creek Mountain Training Center and guided grunts from Ft. Lewis on ski mountaineering treks into Grand Park in Mt. Rainier N.P. and slept in snow caves. The Army was fun back in the day. I don't remember who the president was then... I was 19 and living large in the Pac NW. Ahhh Adventure Training!