MountainAsylum

Thanks for the replies guys. It looks like we're gonna give it a run during a non-peak time while we're there (along with a few other destinations). As far as the summit pyramid, I'll def heed your advice and have some rock pro in the case that it appears necessary. Does anyone has any idea about what the access is like for the Shannon Ridge Trail? or current conditions/snowline? I'd greatly appreciate any additonal info. thanks again, ~dan

whats up guys, I'm looking for a bit more detailed info on the Shuksan Summit Pyramid--that's a bit more informative than the general TR. Right now I'm waiting on some guidebooks in the mail, however, we would like to better plan ahead, aka, whether shuksan is a viable option or not for my trip partners and I. We're going to be in the Cascades from the Fourth to the 16th of July. (From NC) My main question concerning our potential shuksan attempt is: 1. Just how involved is the Summit pyramid around this time of year? (Address this to a seasonal climber with general trad and steep snow/glacier experience) Summits i did in 2004 in the cascades during a month long stint included Eldorado, Sahale and Dome, none of which involved any real rock, aside from perhaps a small scramble at the top.) I've gotten mixed messages about the summit pyramid from my reading...e.g. some people protecting it, others scrambling up without, then rapping down, others doing it all sans rope. I read one report which mentioned a sort of public fixed line being suspended from the top, and anothers saying there were 'no decent pro placement options on the chossy rock.' I know conditions vary due to snowmelt and occasional ice, has anyone been up there recently? I imagine the prime climbing season has been somewhat delayed due to the extra snowfall received this past year, and it things may still look like a typical June (which was when i was there in 2004) still well into July. If someone didn't mind, I'd appreciate an honest sum-up of what conditions YOU think a climber would face once at the base of the summit cone during the aforementioned provided time frame, and your general recommendation of how you would approach it (assuming good weather). Being out of season in terms of pure vertical climbing strength, the easier route the better. (From what i've heard, that would be the central gulley most ascend.) Class 4 rock? how exposed? and would you rope up/rap down for this final piece of the climb? Lastly, what part of the glacier ascent is so often referred to as 'hell's highway?' thanks in advance, dan

Cool, I'll definitely be looking into Shuksan via Fisher Chimneys. From what i've heard and looked at so far, it sounds exhilirating. Also, Forbidden seems to be a must-do as well. Just curious, how hard is it to get permits for these spots?? Thanks so much for the help so far. If I were looking for a definitive guide to Mt Shuksan via Fisher Chimneys Rt, where would you suggest I look. I've heard different opinions about which guidebooks to get. I know Beckey's book is a staple in the area, and someone else mentioned Jim Nelson's book. Should I just go ahead and get both, or would one suffice? If you care to see some pics from my trip that I mentioned above, please check them out here! http://www.putfile.com/ddgerman

The trip will most likely take place some time in mid July...although I wish we could do it earlier. I liked the conditions and enjoyed the amount of snow still around. Believe it or not, we never had to use crampons during this trip. I heard you guys have gotten more than average snowfall this year, is that true? So perhaps the same sort of conditions that I saw will exist into July. Thanks for the suggestions so far, I'm checking out Redoubt and Spickard, and definitely like the idea of retracing some familiar territory, only to actually gain the summits of the mountains that tempted me with all their might that summer...especially Forbidden, That mountain is just sick looking, and I want its summit. I have a gorgeous picture of Forbidden backed by a blood-red sky I'll see if I can post once I figure out how. Thanks for the suggestions so far guys, keep em' coming! dan

Hi, My brother and I (both in our mid 20's) will be heading out that way this summer for a couple weeks, most likely to the southern portion of the Park to hit a few peaks, possibly Forbidden or Logan. I'm looking for a few suggestions for fun climbs, e.g. mostly snow climbs with a bit of rock/exposure towards the top, but i'm okay with a few pitches of rock up to 5.7 or so. I traveled across a good bit of this area two summers ago over the span of a month (June) to get some fundamentals down, (glacier travel/rescue, routefinding, etc.) We started at Holden, checked out Lyman Lake/Glacier, approached Chiwawa Mtn, came back to pass over Cloudy Pass and then Suiattle Pass, back down to Miner's Cr. Then made our way to Downey Cr where the bridge was out. Got re-supplied, headed up to Itswoot ridge via Bachelor Cr. Hit Dome Peak, then came down Dana Glacier and passed by Spire pt, White Rock lakes and then across the S. Cascade Glacier, to make our way out by some nasty bushwhacking along the S. Fork to Mineral Park. Then we spent the rest of the time in the actual Park traversing the varied territory, crossing Inspiration and Eldorado Glaciers, and dropping down to Mt Torment and Boston Basins. During this, I summitted Eldorado Peak, which was a fun classic ridge at the top, and Sahale Mtn, which was a fun glacier/snow climb, w/ an interesting bergschrund crossing, and I'd say minimal 5th class at the top (at least for a short guy). Finally we exited via Boston Basin to the Cascade River Rd and returned to civilization. So, with that description of my experience, if I'm looking to boost my climbing experience/repertoire, what would be some ideal places to go, or suitable peaks to hit during our time there. (we've got roughly 10 days) My brother is quite experienced in rock, and also a bit of ice (Ben Nevis, Scotland--winter) So i feel with our combined skills, we should be able to tackle some more demanding peaks than the ones I mentioned above. We're from NC, and rarely get the chance to hit the 'Big Stuff,' so we'd like to get the most out of this trip. I'd greatly appreciate any help or recommendations from this board's collective experience. Thanks alot, dan