TrogdortheBurninator

does this belong in the new pirates forum or the penguin forum?

this would be a sweet avatar gif:

Pretty sure these bad mofos from cybertron caused the extinction of lame real dinosaurs

I was climbing next to you guys on city park. Nice talking with you and nice work on the climb.

Sadly I'm not that original

Once you have approved of rap bolting, how do you discern whether a placement was absolutely necessary? Couldnt the authors of infinite bliss argue that they felt every bolt was absolutely necessary to maintain the level of safety that they desired (much as those on Prusik did). Couldnt the pitch have been advanced on aid or the bolt could have been drilled from hooks. Clearly this would be a purer ethic and anything else would be a compromise. hawkeye just addressed this, but I'll elaborate. Consider that the route on prusik is one of maybe a dozen routes and variations on the S. Face, while the route on garfield is only the 2nd route on it's massive face. Which line is more pure? Which line represents more of a variation? How do you decide how many bolts is too many? Routes in tuolomne are solely bolt protected, so you can lose the argument about linking protectable features. And you have already conceded that rap bolting is trad when standards are being pushed on an alpine face (a claim that even a sport climber like me knows is complete bullsh*t). What is the magic rap placed bolt spacing that must be maintained to gain your approval? If said bolts are placed on lead, how does that change your criteria? Funny thing is I don't doubt one bit that you walk the walk (your stories about leading on tensioned hooks and other "free pro :)" are absolutely classic and inspiring), but your talk is so hypocritical it is hard to take seriously.

Why is it so hard to realize that ethics are not black and white. I admire pure trad ethics, but I don't adhere to them and I suppose this makes me less of a climber. To make a point: I for example dont think pure sport routes belong in the stuart range or at washington pass. On the the other hand, JosephH approved of rap bolting on Prusik Peak, one of the most pristine peaks in WA (not a sport climb, but illustrative of my point). http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=24&Number=403612&Searchpage=1&Main=28773&Words=prusik+JosephH&topic=0&Search=true#Post403612 This rationale reeks of elitism. Who determines whether a climber has the requisite experience to make these decisions. I would have thought the answer was the FAist, but it sounds like unless the FAist climbs 5.13trad, that isnt true. IB follows a little climbed face on a little climbed low elevation peak on I-90. Personally it would have been nice to see the route make use of natural protection where available, but that is my personal ethic and I do not wish to impose it on others. Not trying to attack JH, merely point out that even the purist ethics have boundaries and it isn't fair to impose your own imperfect ethics on the community at large. [i'd imagine the gray area extends to pope and dwayner too as I recall pope not disapproving of some well thought rap placed bolts on a recent SEWS FA and I'd imagine even dwayner at the least approves of the practice of lead bolting to link features (this is speculative and I could very well be wrong in which case I admire your perfect ethics, honestly).]

Somebody help her!!!!

I cant believe no one is cropping this pic and using it as an avatar.

So what kind of beer was it?

Excellent Ski and great TR. Thanks!

Please say it ain't so!!Has steep street really changed?Please say it's not the cool starting moves to the first bolt.It was the same a week or so ago. A large block fell off 2 months ago. The start changed then.

Are you suggesting they plow/maintin the road, or just remove the gate?

This article says none known: http://www.climbingwashington.com/classics/never_never.htm

Driving west on 45th, just before crossing under 99, someone's roadside rockery reads the tag "BEAR SNATCH". Can't help but laugh every time I see it.

RE Steepstreet: The new start is pretty cool. The undercling is bomber and fun. The move out left after clipping felt a bit harder than I remember though, as you can no longer get a good right foot.

Outstanding!! As someone uninformed on the history of this face, I did some googling and found this nice write up: http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/article_blanchard-robson.htm# Sounds like they absolutely crushed previous times on the face!

That was the same one I found, but I figured it was also possible this Robert Smythe was the offspring of another non-Robert Smythe.

Glad to hear the back held together! Sounds like another fine day in darrington.

Note to self: don't fuck with the Muffster, especially since i have a bullseye on my helmet. And a schlong whip! Spending weekend in leavenworth with whole family. Hopefully squeezing in a fair bit of climbing.

Climbing at Nevermind (exit 38) tuesday, I was angered to see graffiti on the wall. If anyone knows the fuckers that did this, please march there asses back up there with some acetone and sand paper and whatever else it takes to clean this garbage. These were clearly climbers from the nature of their quotes. I got the picture from my friends cell phone, and there should be one more photo/name to come. I googled/dexonlined robert smythe and only found an attorney in kent not sure if this is the culprit (i suspect not, but who knows).

speaking of seagull poo http://seattlepi.nwsource.com/national/1120AP_ODD_Tainted_Salad_Dressing.html?source=mypi

This looks safe: http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/thefishfreesolo/

So chuck, does that give you two more climbing days this year?