TrogdortheBurninator

I almost caught a dozen fat rainbows, but because my knots suck I only caught 5.

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It isnt the fall that shocks the system, it is the stopping.

Thanks JH!

The road is rideable to within maybe 1/2 mile of the TH with only a few short mandatory walking stretches. I'd imagine it will be mostly clear very soon. They still havent touched the landslide yet, so it could be a while before they get the gate open.

I have the vetta's but havent put them through the ringer yet. Seem like nice light boots so far.

I dont know about tents actually shrinking, although metal poles have way higher thermal expansion coefficients than tent fabrics, so if it were colder, the poles would be less snug. If it really shrank, I suppose you could just take a hack saw and shorten the pole sections.

Hardly the climb we were hoping for, but not a bad consolation.

The ice is still fat. THe approach is just a little bit longer:

THanks Dan, did it seem like the kind of thing that would go with proper conditions (less snow or more ice), or was it basically a dead end.

i.e straight up in this photo instead of branching left at the hidden fork.

On the NE couloir (not NBC) on colchuck, has anyone climbed the right hand finish (looks like rocky mixed ground) instead of the more standard lefthand finish? Everyone I know that has climbed the route has done the left finish. Right finish looks cool and direct.

To maximaize my acclimitization, I utilized a series 4 of fixed camps leading up to the meadow below the haystack. The haystack was climbed via the traditional route, however with the assistance of a bolt ladder. Although seige tactics were used on si, mail box will be pure alpine style. It will blow your mind and uncage your soul!

Newsflash: I onsighted Mt. Si as a warm up on my first attempt. Up next a new route on mail box peak.

Why do people constantly confuse legality with ethics. Rap bolting in a wilderness area is a legal issue (with power drills). Rap bolting in the mountains is an ethical issue. People seem to constantly throw out the whole wilderness area argument regarding IB, but I don't see how that is an issue that should carry much weight with climbers (except maybe in the context of access concerns). I respect a decision to dislike all forms of rap bolting, but to use the wilderness area argument sounds like you are digging pretty hard for an excuse.

It is only 5.9 to the first anchor. It is a little stiff through that wide hand crack, but not too bad. Maybe 9+. The business is the thin hands crack above the chimney. Rated 10a, but felt harder to me.

Aside from downtown, which is super easy via 15th, those are mostlyshitty commutes. Edmonds would be manageable. Expect frequent hour plus commutes to Bellevue, redmond, kirkland unless you work very flexible hours.

When are they available?

thought that was against the rules...? If you are referring to my shot of Bear's Breast, it is a reflection in a lake, hence the streaking. The only PS was contrast and a crop.

So how far up did you guys get? Didnt look like much ice was on it.

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when we were there last week, we built the rap anchor after the ramp in your pic above (pin,nut,sling, red webbing). Aaron and justin took the lower ramp and found an anchor already in place. Perhaps the lower ramp is the more heavily travelled option, thus explaining the death blocks. Last week everything was frozen solid, so loose blocks werent much of an issue.

that isnt the point i was trying to make. IMagine it isnt a hanging belay. ... Fine replace belaying off your harness with autoblocking off the anchor.