TrogdortheBurninator

The Bone - the feature, not the route (some people seem to have a hard time with the not routes or peaks statement )

Bearhug is a good one. There really dont seem to be too many singular named features. I think subsequent FAists should start naming more features on their routes so we can have a more storied culture. More: The Dolphin Boving Roofs

where is the "Block of Doom"?

Reading about the Eiger, some of the key features (Death Bivouc, White Spider, etc) are so aptly named, that just their mention gets your imagination running and your adrenalin pumping. What are some of the classic named features/spots (not peaks/routes) in the cascades with similar power? Some that come to mind: In the mountains: Traverse of Angels Great Gendarme Lithuanian Lip Girth Pillar itself At the Crags: Split Pillar Ringing Flake Blue Crack ....

Awesome stuff. I'm hoping to get out there this summer myself. So how far is the drive to the north access, and how much hiking does it save?

It has nothing to do with difficulty. Bolt replacement is a wonderful service to the climbing community. Retrobolting of established, classic alpine routes in one of the most historic parts of the range should always be approached with great caution. When there is no history of incidents at that location, and the climbing is class 3-4 on a 5th class route, I dont think retroing is called for unless it was placed in a situation where it was necessary for client safety. The circumstances for this are rare and would IMO be something like getting caught in a freak storm on the summit and having the safety of that passage greatly compromised for the descent. Regardless, I think a handline would be a suitable option in this rare situation. Regarding DEB SEWS: I was unable to free the previously discussed DEB of SEWS, but I was actually a bit bummed about the triviality of the bolt ladder. Furthermore, the bolts on sews are placed far closer than any sport climb I have EVER climbed. How many new bolts were added after retroing. IIRC, Kearney's recap of the first ascent mentions a significant amount of drilling. Tooth and Claw hasn't been retroed (AFAIK), and represents a model for difficult climbing at WA Pass.

Given your perspective, I think the circumstances under which the bolt was placed are important. If the bolt were placed during a climb (under wintry conditions, etc) where it was necessary for a clients safety, it seems like a justifiable decision. However, if it was placed as a means of "preparing" the route for guided clients, that is, in my opinion, less acceptable. Guiding success and corresponding increased revenues are not IMO a valid justification for retrobolting. If a client is not ready for the traverse, that is a sign to turn around and return with more experience. I have no problem with the existence of the discussed bolt, but I question the motives for its placement.

Very sad. Condolences. Not that there is any reasonable way to alert hikers in a remote range like the winds, but keep this in mind for venues closer to home like index UTW.

Chances are slim, but you might get lucky at 8 mile or upper Johnny Creek. If those fall through there is free camping just across the bridge from bridge creek campground (left turn 100 yards up hill).

While not massively runout, there are attention grabbing bits of climbing on Dreamer in locations I would not want to fall. Certainly not R rated, but still a bit runout.

And I'm sure they pity you when they pass you on the first pitch while you are fiddling pro.

very, very cool

I'd be surprised if it could be seen anywhere from the highway. I think we got a brief glimpse of it from the abandoned access rd that forks off before the bridge on the cutthroat lake trail. Otherwise, I think it is pretty well hidden from the valley bottoms.

Some friends of mine were up there shortly after us, and they were able to find the trail. We just botched it.

I kinda thought the idea of the biner trick was so that you could have a retardedly skinny tag line (ie not one you would consider rapping on), whereas using something like techcord like colin does you would generally rap both strands and use the knot to ensure that the smaller diameter cord does not rappel too fast and slip. I have never used a super skinny tag line in any manner, so this is just my understanding.

For the folks that are climbing this route right now, are you guys just hoping for the best when crossing the slabs, or are you using an alternate approach?

Apparently Justin Sjong sent it a few weeks ago at 12+/13-. Must have been one of the most coveted free lines in WA. Surprised it didnt go sooner at that relatively modest by modern standards grade.

desperate times call for desperate measures

Ton's of fun! The crux pitch was on of the more mentally challenging leads I've done. Pulled off some portable holds down low and almost puked as I pulled onto the down sloping lichen covered lip at the top while climbing above two cams in marginal rock. A #4 BD stopper protects the start moves on the crux pitch surprisingly well (while the cam placed overhead in the corner adds some extra security).

Looks like a great couple of days. Was EMS mostly dry?

Brilliant climbing!

Wow, that is fast! What was the old record?

With colin's atc swap you dont need any tie offs. The autoblock serves that purpose until they start climbing again (you can give a comforting stopper knot if it makes you feel better on a hanging stance). For me it seems quite a bit less clustered and a bit faster than using tie offs and moving the atc from the anchor to your belay loop.

Very nice. For overall package, the NR is definitely hard to beat in IMO.

Nice, I think we watched you guys from the beach across the wenatchee yesterday. Looked warm up there. Maybe the breeze kept it manageable.