TrogdortheBurninator

It was nice to meet you guys. Glad you made it up safely. I suppose we should thank you guys for giving us a reason to skip the runnels:) Mark's description is classic. FYI, the spin drift was natural and hit us too.

You hiked ith Billy Joel? Cool! What are you training for?

Cool! Looks like nice weather.

Trip: Dragontail - Triple Couloirs Date: 3/31/2007 Trip Report: On Friday evening Aaron, Mike, Justin and I left Bridge Creek, arriving at camp on the south end Colchuck Lake around 11:30. Saturday morning was a bit windy, but after a little extra sleep, things calmed down so we decided to check things out. We started up just behind a party of two. For some odd reason most of us entered the first couloir by climbing a short neve ramp up to some sloping sketchy rock. Justin, climbed the right side snow and found great conditions (recommended). After sketchy while scrambling rock, we finally made the first couloir and made reasonable time up to the runnels where the party ahead of us was just racking up. Things looked pretty good, but apparently conditions were thinner than they appeared. After waiting an hour or so, and knowing the 2nd pitch was supposed to be the crux, we decided to leave the other party at the runnel and take the 2nd option in selected climbs. As stated in the description, option 2 takes a left hand couloir almost exaclty one rope length past the start of the runnels. this is a faily narrow couloir, and it had phenomenal conditions. We simuled up to the highest left trending snow ramp (Aaron and Justin used the lower snow ramp, which had a previously established rappel point). After some sketchy dry tooling, we ended up above the top of the runnels, where we decided to rappel. A short ice step with great climbing in a narrow chimney slot brought us into the 2nd couloir which again had great generally great conditions. We continued simuling up to the base of the 2nd-3rd couloir runnel. The pitch started with a small ice step leading to some slightly runout and sketch climbing. The last couloir seemed really long, but still afforded good protection and generally enjoyable climbing. We continued this simul lead directly to the summit where we hung out for a while and enjoyed the views before heading down. Regarding the lower runnel pitches, maybe the other party will chime in. Apparently their leader took multiple falls (Aaron and Justing heard the screams and talked to them later) on the 2nd runnel pitch. They reported very thin conditions, so buyer beware. A few more parties were heading up there today, so maybe one of them will be able to report first hand on runnel conditions. Gear Notes: TCUs from blue to red #1 and 2 link cams Half set nuts 3 bugaboos 1 LA 5 slings 3 screamers 4 screws (only used 2 at one belay) 2 pickets A few more slings would have been nice when simuling, but we got by. Approach Notes: Road snow free for 3/4 of way. Snowshoes helpful on trail, but could probably be left behind if approaching/descending after conditions harden up. Lots of different tracks leading to lake, they all probably get there eventually.

Beat you to it earler. Maybe he's just helping out the ever growing list of users ignoring you

that is really scary. Really glad you made it through that Oly.

except that key chain biners are a lot lighter and cheaper

I was looking at the same things at home depot for my umbilicals. Like these http://www.hobbytool.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=360 100lbs-340lbs I think the weak point is that miniscule pin.

Seems like a poor choice for first lead. The crux has trick pro IIRC. Classic is the harder climb, but definitely the safer lead. Bomber gear the whole way.

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/520096/page/0/fpart/3

Those look like hardware store snaps. Rated to just a couple hundred #s IIRC. Scary!

Dont worry oly, the smut persists .

Id say ballard if you want to rent, Lake City if you want to buy. Lake city is getting better by the minute; they just tore out a few more blocks for more hip retail space. nwclassifieds.com (seattle times) has some listings not found on craigslist.

uhh, it was a quote

Unrelated, but on the same GNA page I found this story. Blanchards is good, but Vince Anderson's story is crazy! http://www.grivelnorthamerica.com/headlines.php?id=1

Well done! As far as I can tell, awkward corner is the correct finish to NYG. Reading the old reports I got the impression that the 5.7 cruise splits off at the moderate ramp that leads to the corner. Unless of course everyone else is super tough and thinks awkward corner is 5.7.

Glad to hear everyone is ok.

Looks like a great time.

the offwidth on EF Lexington seemed to require the requisite thrutching and awkwardenss to make it a classic. It is also in a pretty cool position.

Seriously, aside from ego driven machismo, why shouldnt Beacon have a topo. The crag itself is hardly secret. You (JH) constantly emphasize the need to reduce signs of previous passage on routes. Seems to me that by prohibiting sharing of information you increase the likelihood of people getting in over their heads and having to leave excess bail gear. Further, it increases the risk of serious injury, which can only serve to hurt access in the future.

Hi Chelle, your inbox is full. I'll take the HBs.

Just got back from the rockies on Wednesday. The warmth has continued. Avy danger is high. TR here if you want details: http://uw.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=19140 Pictures here: http://picasaweb.google.com/Jason.Killgore/ThisHouseOfSky

i usually wear softshell bottoms in all conditions. For winter/spring I have a pair of lightly insulated OR exos pants. For warmer days I have some schoeller dynamic (really light) moonstone pants and some cordura based OR pants. I only wear waterproof breathable pants for skiing/snowboarding.

Those are our ropes, it was pretty obvious when we got there that there would be some sloughing. Nothing too dangerous though. When the wall started sloughing we sat back for 20 minutes and let it do its thing. Regarding avy danger, this excerpt is from the MCR for the day before Farrgo climbed PC "There was a car parked at Polar Circus but today did not seem like the day to be up there. With "considerable hazard" in the alpine posted then the heavy wet snow combined with warm temperatures, I would avoid big terrain trap routes like Polar Circus and similar. Sean Isaac Assistant Alpine Guide " Avy danger was between Considerable and High the entire time we were up there.