TrogdortheBurninator

On that particular 5.9 route, the crux, for me, was right where shown on the topo. Just replacing the one bolt before the first anchor, and one bolt at the first anchor would make the route safe and fun. It is a good route, and not sustained.

Those leepers definitely add some excitement to that silent running pitch. Seemed there was a lot more lichen on the 6-7th pitches than the lower route. Are some people turning around when they see the manky orange bolts? I think the other route we did was the 5.9 on the left side of your great arch topo (http://www.seanet.com/~mattp/Darr/pdf/3south.pdf). Fun climbing, but all on button heads. Those button heads look pretty good, but I still wasnt looking to fall. What do you make of those things? I was quite happy to find a massive new bolt at the 2nd anchor.

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The 4th pitch on NW corner is way easier than that the flare on Prusik.

Looks like the best kind of failure!

ML, those are some great looking alpine lake trout!

The description for that chimney sure makes it sound like a potentially awesome winter climb. Anyone ever been in there in the cold months?

Where is Bunny Death Bivouac? That sounds awesome.

Library Ledge

The Bone - the feature, not the route (some people seem to have a hard time with the not routes or peaks statement )

Bearhug is a good one. There really dont seem to be too many singular named features. I think subsequent FAists should start naming more features on their routes so we can have a more storied culture. More: The Dolphin Boving Roofs

where is the "Block of Doom"?

Reading about the Eiger, some of the key features (Death Bivouc, White Spider, etc) are so aptly named, that just their mention gets your imagination running and your adrenalin pumping. What are some of the classic named features/spots (not peaks/routes) in the cascades with similar power? Some that come to mind: In the mountains: Traverse of Angels Great Gendarme Lithuanian Lip Girth Pillar itself At the Crags: Split Pillar Ringing Flake Blue Crack ....

Awesome stuff. I'm hoping to get out there this summer myself. So how far is the drive to the north access, and how much hiking does it save?

It has nothing to do with difficulty. Bolt replacement is a wonderful service to the climbing community. Retrobolting of established, classic alpine routes in one of the most historic parts of the range should always be approached with great caution. When there is no history of incidents at that location, and the climbing is class 3-4 on a 5th class route, I dont think retroing is called for unless it was placed in a situation where it was necessary for client safety. The circumstances for this are rare and would IMO be something like getting caught in a freak storm on the summit and having the safety of that passage greatly compromised for the descent. Regardless, I think a handline would be a suitable option in this rare situation. Regarding DEB SEWS: I was unable to free the previously discussed DEB of SEWS, but I was actually a bit bummed about the triviality of the bolt ladder. Furthermore, the bolts on sews are placed far closer than any sport climb I have EVER climbed. How many new bolts were added after retroing. IIRC, Kearney's recap of the first ascent mentions a significant amount of drilling. Tooth and Claw hasn't been retroed (AFAIK), and represents a model for difficult climbing at WA Pass.

Given your perspective, I think the circumstances under which the bolt was placed are important. If the bolt were placed during a climb (under wintry conditions, etc) where it was necessary for a clients safety, it seems like a justifiable decision. However, if it was placed as a means of "preparing" the route for guided clients, that is, in my opinion, less acceptable. Guiding success and corresponding increased revenues are not IMO a valid justification for retrobolting. If a client is not ready for the traverse, that is a sign to turn around and return with more experience. I have no problem with the existence of the discussed bolt, but I question the motives for its placement.

Very sad. Condolences. Not that there is any reasonable way to alert hikers in a remote range like the winds, but keep this in mind for venues closer to home like index UTW.

Chances are slim, but you might get lucky at 8 mile or upper Johnny Creek. If those fall through there is free camping just across the bridge from bridge creek campground (left turn 100 yards up hill).

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While not massively runout, there are attention grabbing bits of climbing on Dreamer in locations I would not want to fall. Certainly not R rated, but still a bit runout.

And I'm sure they pity you when they pass you on the first pitch while you are fiddling pro.

very, very cool

I'd be surprised if it could be seen anywhere from the highway. I think we got a brief glimpse of it from the abandoned access rd that forks off before the bridge on the cutthroat lake trail. Otherwise, I think it is pretty well hidden from the valley bottoms.

Some friends of mine were up there shortly after us, and they were able to find the trail. We just botched it.

I kinda thought the idea of the biner trick was so that you could have a retardedly skinny tag line (ie not one you would consider rapping on), whereas using something like techcord like colin does you would generally rap both strands and use the knot to ensure that the smaller diameter cord does not rappel too fast and slip. I have never used a super skinny tag line in any manner, so this is just my understanding.