TrogdortheBurninator

THanks Dan, did it seem like the kind of thing that would go with proper conditions (less snow or more ice), or was it basically a dead end.

i.e straight up in this photo instead of branching left at the hidden fork.

On the NE couloir (not NBC) on colchuck, has anyone climbed the right hand finish (looks like rocky mixed ground) instead of the more standard lefthand finish? Everyone I know that has climbed the route has done the left finish. Right finish looks cool and direct.

To maximaize my acclimitization, I utilized a series 4 of fixed camps leading up to the meadow below the haystack. The haystack was climbed via the traditional route, however with the assistance of a bolt ladder. Although seige tactics were used on si, mail box will be pure alpine style. It will blow your mind and uncage your soul!

Newsflash: I onsighted Mt. Si as a warm up on my first attempt. Up next a new route on mail box peak.

Why do people constantly confuse legality with ethics. Rap bolting in a wilderness area is a legal issue (with power drills). Rap bolting in the mountains is an ethical issue. People seem to constantly throw out the whole wilderness area argument regarding IB, but I don't see how that is an issue that should carry much weight with climbers (except maybe in the context of access concerns). I respect a decision to dislike all forms of rap bolting, but to use the wilderness area argument sounds like you are digging pretty hard for an excuse.

It is only 5.9 to the first anchor. It is a little stiff through that wide hand crack, but not too bad. Maybe 9+. The business is the thin hands crack above the chimney. Rated 10a, but felt harder to me.

Aside from downtown, which is super easy via 15th, those are mostlyshitty commutes. Edmonds would be manageable. Expect frequent hour plus commutes to Bellevue, redmond, kirkland unless you work very flexible hours.

When are they available?

thought that was against the rules...? If you are referring to my shot of Bear's Breast, it is a reflection in a lake, hence the streaking. The only PS was contrast and a crop.

So how far up did you guys get? Didnt look like much ice was on it.

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when we were there last week, we built the rap anchor after the ramp in your pic above (pin,nut,sling, red webbing). Aaron and justin took the lower ramp and found an anchor already in place. Perhaps the lower ramp is the more heavily travelled option, thus explaining the death blocks. Last week everything was frozen solid, so loose blocks werent much of an issue.

that isnt the point i was trying to make. IMagine it isnt a hanging belay. ... Fine replace belaying off your harness with autoblocking off the anchor.

Are you looking for rock or alpine routes?

Blake, If you belay 150# directly off your harness, then the weight on the anchor (or your harness if things arent tight) is 150#. If the rope goes through a directional, you have 150# on one side of the biner (from the climber), but also you must be placing an equal load on the belayer side of the biner (otherwise things wouldnt be in equilibrium). So, that 150# climber places a 300# load on the directional.

FYI, the highway will still be closed for ~ 1 more month. I'd imagine there is a lot of snow on the routes still. You could probably climb some steep sunny stuff if you were inclined to put forth the effort. You could also climb that coulouir on SEWS>

I thought you'd appreciate that one arch. My wife and I took a guided float trip on the yakima. That fish was taken on around a 14 chernobyl ant with a green body. My wife actually had the biggest fish of the day. About as long as the one pictured, but maybe 30% fatter. The one pictured was the prettiest though.

Looks like great conditions. Nice TR>

My Saturday involved about a dozen of these. It was good.

It was in all last spring and summer.

So tempting! Stupid work. Have fun

Cascade Alpine Guide, Challenge of the N Cascades. Both by FWB.

Nice work. Looks fun. Were there still good sticks on the route, or mostly drytooling?