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Everything posted by TrogdortheBurninator
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Anybody have any favorite eastside campgrounds (developed or undeveloped) they'd like to recommend? Ideally something between say as far south as yakima and as far north as plain. Looking for car camping, not necessarily anywhere near climbing, although I wouldn't mind. Cheap and free sites preferred. Ideally someplace on a river with some fishing (even if mediocre). Privacy is good. We've spent quite a bit of time at the free site near salmon la sac and are looking for someplace new and maybe a bit further east given the weekends forecast. Any ideas (PM or post)? Thanks
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Anybody want to get out for a bit this afternoon. Index, aid or free. Or northbend if that is more your thing. I think I need to be back in seatle around 7.
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grammar
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True, true.... maybe someday that will happen... I wonder how much climbing I'd do if I lived in Marblemount...or Newhalem???????? probably not as much as the aount of meth you'd do.
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I think two
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According to teh interwebs, tuesday is trivia night at old pequliar
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My Saturday started nearly identical to Otto's, and I suspect they were the fellows following us around. Brass Balls (burly), S. Face Jello Tower (awesome), TR Damnation (burly), Midway Direct, Lunch, Classic Crack, Twin Crack, Deception Crack, Hornblower (TR).
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Best Place to Live in the World for Climbing
TrogdortheBurninator replied to TimL's topic in Climber's Board
Seems to me that canmore would be tough to beat with it's combo of ice, rock, alpine (rockies and bugaboos) and skiing. -
Best Place to Live--Alpine in Washington
TrogdortheBurninator replied to fowweezer's topic in Climber's Board
From UW 1. After work = Traffic. A flexible schedule can have you cragging in about an hour + approach (maybe a bit less). If you have to work until 5:00, expect 1.5 hours. 2. There is no reliable local ice climbing. For a few weeks a year you might have ice climbing within just over an hour at snoqualmie pass. Options increase a little if you drive 2.5-4 hours. Options increase a lot more if you drive 6+ hours to Lillooet B.C. Options get crazy if you drive 10+ hours to Canmore. 3. The good alpine rock and ice is basically spread from the Stuart Range (2+ hours east of seattle) north past the Canadian Boarder. Expect to drive a lot regardless of where you live if you plan to explore any significant portion of the state. -
I don't know, but Myspace dinosaur is
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does this belong in the new pirates forum or the penguin forum?
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this would be a sweet avatar gif:
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Pretty sure these bad mofos from cybertron caused the extinction of lame real dinosaurs
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[TR] Index LTW - Narrow Arrow Overhang 6/9/2007
TrogdortheBurninator replied to Jeff_T's topic in North Cascades
I was climbing next to you guys on city park. Nice talking with you and nice work on the climb. -
Sadly I'm not that original
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Infinite Bliss chopped- true or false?
TrogdortheBurninator replied to Mattski's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
Once you have approved of rap bolting, how do you discern whether a placement was absolutely necessary? Couldnt the authors of infinite bliss argue that they felt every bolt was absolutely necessary to maintain the level of safety that they desired (much as those on Prusik did). Couldnt the pitch have been advanced on aid or the bolt could have been drilled from hooks. Clearly this would be a purer ethic and anything else would be a compromise. hawkeye just addressed this, but I'll elaborate. Consider that the route on prusik is one of maybe a dozen routes and variations on the S. Face, while the route on garfield is only the 2nd route on it's massive face. Which line is more pure? Which line represents more of a variation? How do you decide how many bolts is too many? Routes in tuolomne are solely bolt protected, so you can lose the argument about linking protectable features. And you have already conceded that rap bolting is trad when standards are being pushed on an alpine face (a claim that even a sport climber like me knows is complete bullsh*t). What is the magic rap placed bolt spacing that must be maintained to gain your approval? If said bolts are placed on lead, how does that change your criteria? Funny thing is I don't doubt one bit that you walk the walk (your stories about leading on tensioned hooks and other "free pro :)" are absolutely classic and inspiring), but your talk is so hypocritical it is hard to take seriously. -
Infinite Bliss chopped- true or false?
TrogdortheBurninator replied to Mattski's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
Why is it so hard to realize that ethics are not black and white. I admire pure trad ethics, but I don't adhere to them and I suppose this makes me less of a climber. To make a point: I for example dont think pure sport routes belong in the stuart range or at washington pass. On the the other hand, JosephH approved of rap bolting on Prusik Peak, one of the most pristine peaks in WA (not a sport climb, but illustrative of my point). http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=24&Number=403612&Searchpage=1&Main=28773&Words=prusik+JosephH&topic=0&Search=true#Post403612 This rationale reeks of elitism. Who determines whether a climber has the requisite experience to make these decisions. I would have thought the answer was the FAist, but it sounds like unless the FAist climbs 5.13trad, that isnt true. IB follows a little climbed face on a little climbed low elevation peak on I-90. Personally it would have been nice to see the route make use of natural protection where available, but that is my personal ethic and I do not wish to impose it on others. Not trying to attack JH, merely point out that even the purist ethics have boundaries and it isn't fair to impose your own imperfect ethics on the community at large. [i'd imagine the gray area extends to pope and dwayner too as I recall pope not disapproving of some well thought rap placed bolts on a recent SEWS FA and I'd imagine even dwayner at the least approves of the practice of lead bolting to link features (this is speculative and I could very well be wrong in which case I admire your perfect ethics, honestly).] -
Somebody help her!!!!
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I cant believe no one is cropping this pic and using it as an avatar.
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So what kind of beer was it?
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[TR] Mt Rainier - Kautz Glacier Climb / Sunset Rid
TrogdortheBurninator replied to skykilo's topic in Mount Rainier NP
Excellent Ski and great TR. Thanks! -
Graffiti By Robert Smythe at Nevermind
TrogdortheBurninator replied to TrogdortheBurninator's topic in Climber's Board
Please say it ain't so!!Has steep street really changed?Please say it's not the cool starting moves to the first bolt.It was the same a week or so ago. A large block fell off 2 months ago. The start changed then. -
Are you suggesting they plow/maintin the road, or just remove the gate?
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This article says none known: http://www.climbingwashington.com/classics/never_never.htm
