TrogdortheBurninator

Nice! Looks like a wonderful trip.

Originally, I thought your last photo was taken at the crux, but now I see that the right hand wall isnt actually there.

Nice work! This is a climb that kind of grew on me now that it has been a year since we climbed it. At first I only remembered the sketchy bits, but now those are gone from memory and I mostly remember the fun bits and the good adventure. Rock quality is actually very good in the section where those pictures are taken.

reading comp again kevbone

Is the approach supposed to come close to Terror creek? If not, I wonder if we didnt actually pass the trail as per the NF Terror beta in Nelson. Does anyone know if the terror approach is also flagged in orange tape? The thing that makes me think we were sort of in the right area is that where we gained the heather bench at 5200' was actually very close to the heavily worn descent trail we temporarily followed (~1 treed buttress south)on our way back.

1) The camp is wonderful, two streams and a small tarn 2) Since we never found the real trail, I'm not certain, but if the stream bed we followed is an indication, I'd think not. There are a few small streams and bigger streams on the lower approach (before steepness), and you could fill up at terror creek shortly before heading up hill. You will find a nice waterfall to fill up at right after you reach the top of the steep bit. 3) We saw only one fixed anchor (3 rusty old pins) on the E. Ridge proper, plus two more slung blocks down lower. You could probably get by fine, but you may have to leave some gear. With two ropes the W. Ridge/S. Face descent wouldn't be too bad I think, but you'd need to get a little lucky. With one rope (60m) you could repeat our beta and do fine also I think. Just don't skip any stations on the W Ridge, head for the block with lots of slings on the S. Face, rap to the W. Side of the block and find the overhanging Station partway down. Rap to the large ledge where the angle lessens and traverse west to an anchor. Rap down to the 3rd class section. Build anchor and belay or just scramble down and westward to an equalized anchor between two horns (one red cord, one faded webbing). Rap into gully below and look east for station. Rap down to big block (double length mammut sling, would be more secure if replaced with long cord). Rap down to dirty gully and scramble/belay back to glacier (possible steep snow, schrund, crevasses).

The news report I just read said the rope was cut by the impact of the ice block. Sincere condolences to the friends and family of the deceased climber. "The force of the ice was so great it broke the rope and knocked the Abbotsford man into the crevasse." http://www.canada.com/vancouversun/news/story.html?id=84d41e6f-1d44-498b-b8d1-6bab2eca7248&k=73990

That challenger glacier pic is beautiful! Great job!

We knew the other crack was there, but the one we climbed looked way too good to pass up. Regarding the trail, I think we picked it up again on the way down after descending almost to where we had started up on friday. To connect the possible trail to where we started up we had to cross some big fallen trees and significant devils club, so it is no wonder we didnt find it on the way up. It wasn't so much that the route was chossy as it was that it was sometimes chossy looking/feeling on very steep moves. Probably solid enough if you are used to the type of terrain, but quite frightening for us. BTW, I think the route is Grade II-III in Beckey

Trip: Inspiration - East Ridge Date: 7/8/2007 Trip Report: Mike (Colt45) and I climbed the E. Ridge of Inspiration over the weekend. According to the rangers, no one had been up in the area recently. Seems as though quite a bit of damage and overgrowth occured on the Goodell trail. Things were pretty straight forward from the parking area to about 2100ft, only a few overgrown spots. After that, where the trail is supposed to go steeply upwards, we found ourselves pretty much lost. From the last piece of orange surveyors tape near a large boulder, we spent about 2 hours looking for a continuation of the trail. Finally we resolved to just head upward. Things started out reasonably well in a dried stream bed, but soon we were forced into vertical tree climbing and other shenanigans. 3000 ft later we finally reached the snow covered heather bench and picked up a remnant of the trail. Traversing eventually brought us to the base of a gully that seemed to lead up to 6200'. When we reached 6200', we looked out and saw a promient notch a 6200' one ridge over. Rather than descend, we decided to rappel our ridge to minimize elevation loss. (FYI, the Kearney description is specific about crossing the first ridge at 5700', the nelson description doesnt mention the first ridge). Finally we were on track and we reached the notch and were treated to a view of the finest campsite I've ever had the pleasure of using. The next morning we woke early and headed out towards inspration. We gained the route via some moderate ice just to the right of the furthest right snow tongue in the following picture. Enjoyable 5.7 climbing lead to a third class ramp system that we follwed up and right. Next Mike lead up and left of a large snow patch via loose terrain. Eventually more looseness and generally sketchy climbing brought us to the ridgecrest. The crest of the ridge involved two steep pitches. The first was a 5.8 lieback flake that unfortunately ended too soon and required steep climbing via detached blocks to reach a great loose ledge. The next pitch starts with a spectacular wide hand crack which can be exited rightward via an improbable traverse to gain another crack system which unfortunately has more of the requisite loose blocks and holds. Mike made a damn fine lead of this psuedo gem. (This pitch is supposedly 5.9, but it felt a bit harder to me while following). Beyond this pitch the rock quality increases quite a bit, and the climbing becomes very enjoyable. A nondescript and fun 5.6 pitch leads from up the N. Face with spotty pro to the base of the flase summit block. Next Mike led a breathtaking traverse around the south side of the block. 5.7 climbing with 1000' of air under your feet as soon as you turn the corner. The rest of the ridge connecting the false summit to the true summit was easier, but just as spectacular. This photo does not do the ridge justice. In places you walk on a perfectly flat 2ft wide sidewalk with big exposure all around you. After summitting we quicly started a series of single rope rappels down the W. Ridge. Rap anchors then abruptly ended, forcing a bit of convoluted scrambling to reach the next set of anchors. After exlporing all of our options, we chose an anchor over the S. Face that happened to have the most slings. Mike rapped down, but had to place directionals to reach the next anchor. I rapped down a slightly different direction and was able to reach the uncomfortable overhanging station with only minor shenanigans (if you rap from this anchor, rap off the west side of the block). This rap lead to a ledge that was easily traversed to another good anchor (2 nuts). After this rap we didn't see an more stations, so again we started roped scrambling. I looked all over, initially only seeing another anchor out of reach below in a muddy gully, but eventually I spotted a manky old anchor up above. I scrambled up to it, noted it's mankyness, then belayed mike over. We were able to place another anchor with a red cordalette directly above. We then rapped into the gully and another rap do a large boulder where we place a double length sling as a rappel anchor. After this rap we were finally down and only a sketchy steep snow traverse above a crevasse stood between us and the long walk back to camp. Descending today we were able to find the proper trail at the bench at 5200', but it abruptly disappeared at 4700', forcing us into another long bushwhack. Finally we found the trail again at 2100', where we were able to make the long hike out. All in all a pretty full on adventure that seemed to test us in every aspect (approach, climb, descent, deproach). The climbing itself was very on and off, but when it was on, it was awesome. Gear Notes: 1x red c3, Camalots 0.4-2, #2 link cam, set nuts 2x #3 camalots (2nd not used because mike was able to walk his single #3 through the wide section) Approach Notes: Many trees down on lower trail. Usually the most logical direction is correct. No idea where the real trail to go up to the bench starts. We may have encountered it on our descent, underneath logs and devils club. Hopefully more traffic will make more clear. On the upper traverse cross the first ridge at a large bench at 5700', then aim for the notch at 6200'.

How were the festivities? Would have loved to have been there.

Phenomenal route. My 3rd attempt (first with good weather). A far more consitent line than outerspace, with comparable quality highlight pitches. Only the aesthetics of the OS headwall are tops IMHO. Dreamer = best 5.9 crag route in the state

you certainly can if you are comfortable on steep awkward offwidths. In the offwidth there is a 2x4 and 1-2 bolts. The #6 friend/camalot allows you to walk yourself on TR. You dont need a #5 friend/c4. Great route. One of the best I've done at WA Pass.

If anything like last weekend, it will be full by tonight, and stay full all weekend. You can always camp at the kayak camp on 8 mile rd, just past bridge creek campground, but don't expect much solitude. I posted a thread last week that garnered a few more tips on free campgrounds around LW among other places.

Snowboarding and internet poker (when it was legal) are two things I am/was genuinely pretty decent at. I'm an average climber and as much as it pains me, probably a below average flyfisherman. In the past I also dabbled in skateboarding and mountain biking, but not much anymore.

That bouldering photo is sweet!!

i'll be there right around 7. it is a fun bar. definitely not hipster, but the have pool and darts and nice bartenders.

Lake City Bar and Grill!!!!!!!!!!!

BTW, dinobots dominate the killing scale. Not even robot unicorn stands a chance.

joT1oc8-VEI

you might consider these (garmont vetta plus). A bit lighter than trango S and a fair bit more compact. I have em and like them so far. More boot-approach shoe hybrid than trail runner, but I think that is a good thing.

That route on salish looks awesome. I have wanted to check it out ever since Chris showed pics of it at the picnic two years ago. Roan wall also looks really good. Sounds like a great link up.

I've heard of the tieton camping, but only ever camped in the pull out on the river.