jonah

Noticing that this post has gone off topic a bit, I thought I would interject. I and numerous other people worked with organizations, including the Access Fund and Washington Climbers Coalition, for years to get the Newhalem agreement finalized and to get new routes reopened. The National Park Service has been a wonderful partner in this, and helped, along with the Washington Trails Association, the Wilderness Society and the Vertical World Climbing Team, build a new trail to a new wall last year (just up the road from the existing wall). Thanks for respecting the agreement and helping keep the wall clear of fixed lines. But please keep in mind that most of the routes pre-dated the agreement - going back to camouflage hangers with paint (if that's what I understood your post to mean) at this point would likely cause more access trouble and resource impacts than simply leaving them as they are. The rangers that do climb there are very cool and understand this. Great to hear people are getting out there to "Ryan's Wall", and make sure to check out the new wall to the east and put up some good new routes! Tons of potential.

We are in discussions with the landowner, Patricia Murphy, about purchasing the property for climbers. I spoke with her on Monday (4/6) and discussed some details of a possible purchase. There are issues to be worked out, but as it stands, it looks like buying Index is a real possibility. We have a good relationship with Pat - she is a very nice lady and has no problem with climbers or climbing, per se, but is concerned only because miners told her they would not purchase the land for quarrying as long as climbers are there. Based on recent discussions, we are very hopeful that we will be able to negotiate a reasonable sale. But heads up, climbers and Index lovers: to make this happen we're all going to have to chip in. If we all throw in the cost of a few days at the gym and beers afterward, we can buy the best crag in the western U.S. (in my opinion) and preserve it as a climbers' haven in perpetuity! I will update as discussions progress.

I should add that the moratorium on new bouldering problems being cleaned IS STILL IN PLACE.

Portions of the Newhalem area are officially open once again to new route development! The NPS, Washington Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund recently finalized an agreement lifting the voluntary moratorium on new route development in certain areas. This means that the main area and the large buttress just to the east, as well the Diablo Crag, are open for new routes. Part of the agreement is that climbers maintain low impact techniques, especially only cleaning as much moss as is necessary for the route to go, and camouflaging hangers. The WCC will post the final signed agreement on its website soon, and I will write up a full, detailed explanation of the agreement, too. But that is the gist of it. Go put up some new routes!!! This has been a long time coming, and we owe a lot of thanks to existing NPS personnel and some of the new administration who recently arrived and were able to look at this issue through new eyes. They really facilitated reaching this agreement. We have a great working relationship with the NPS up there right now, so let's do everything we can to maintain it. Knowing some of those rangers as I do, I bet we'll be seeing them out at the Newhalem crags this season, so say hi and thanks.

About the moratorium on new routes - keep an eye on the Washington Climbers Coalition and Access Fund websites for an official announcement. It's going to be an exciting season.

Hey, Wayne! Haven't talked to you in forever, but I had to respond to this post, being from Wisco originally. GO PACK!

I climbed at one called "The Shop" when I lived in Chicago. Best gym I ever climbed in, and the best group of people, too. You had to be invited as a guest and would pay about $5 per visit to help with rent, utilities, new holds, etc., but after some number of months, the rest of the members would vote to let you become a member. Then you get a key and could go whenever you wanted. Membership was based purely on whether you got along with everyone else in there. Very supportive place, and everyone was climbing REALLY hard outside as a result of that training and atmosphere.

Regardless of your political beliefs, I think any discussion with our congressional representatives about these road repair costs should include a reminder that we have spent an average of $237,000,000 per DAY on the Iraq war since it began. Considering that Congress voted for that, it strains their credibility to claim that the money just isn't available and Washington citizens should have to fight amongst ourselves to get $6M in a whole year for badly needed road repairs.

Just so ya know, stainless probably won't last 20 years on sea cliffs. I suppose you could get a few good years out of em, but it's not certain. Talk to Sam Lightner about corrosion issues, or the Petzl rep. Worst case scenario (Thailand, different rock - way worse corrosion issues) stainless bolts and hangers can break under working loads after a couple months. Pretty freaky. Just something to think about when investing in a route next to salt water.

Why hasn't anybody posted about this? Anyone know anything about it?

Best sportclimbing in Washington - as far as potential, anyway - the online guide will get you set up just fine.

I have some thoughts about who may have done it, but it would be nice if that person came forward and owned up. Bolting and chopping is not helpful at all, from an access perspective. It makes us all look like we are not cohesive and simply bicker amongst ourselves. Then, when we want to work with landowners on access issues, it is harder to claim that we represent a unified group of climbers, and harder to get landowners to negotiate at all. I understand the history behind Japanese Gardens and the rationale for removing the bolts. But the fact is, the lower portion remains one of the few moderate routes at LTW. That is important because it allows a group of climbers to enjoy Index that otherwise may never go there. While I am not condoning "dumbing down" routes, Index needs supporters in the community. It can get supporters by having more people climb there (which means having some moderate climbs available). Without people like that, there will be fewer people to do the necessary work of maintenance, cleanup, etc. (witness the total lack of today's better Index climbers who showed up to the cleanup last weekend). What's even more important is that enough people love Index and climb there that if there is ever a threat to access, there will be enough of a community to rally and protect it. That won't happen if we have to rely on the handful of dedicated bad asses who climb there regularly (this isn't a criticism - a lot of you are my good friends), because, frankly, they generally can't be counted on to volunteer their time for access issues, they mostly don't have any money for necessary fundraising, and most importantly, there just aren't enough of them to make a big enough constituency that governmental agencies will care about what they have to say. I would like to hear from the chopper and come to some kind of consensus on this, but I support replacing the anchors. Please note that the above statements are only my personal views and don't necessarily represent the views of any organizations I may be affiliated with or represent.

I'll be there bouldering with my 9 month old daughter. See if she can do her first v0. I figure she only has 14 years in which she can realistically climb her age, so she better get on it. She's a horrible spotter, though.

The Park Service is conducting public meetings to get input about its new management plan affecting the Ross Lake National Recreation Area. Currently, there is a voluntary moratorium on new climbing in the area, because of the Highway 20 washout a few years back. The Ross Lake area holds some great climbs, and has the potential to be one of the best climbing areas in Western Washington, if we are allowed to start putting up routes again. Come to the meeting Thursday, October 26 at the Mountaineers in Seattle and let the Park Service know any management plan should include continued climbing access and allowances for new routes. See the Park Service's flyer below for details. September 28, 2006 For Immediate Release Contact: Charles Beall, Acting Chief Interpreter, 360-856-5700 x.365 PARK SUPERINTENDENT REQUESTS PUBLIC INVOLVEMENT FOR FUTURE OF ROSS LAKE NATIONAL RECREATION AREA Superintendent Bill Paleck announced that the National Park Service, together with its visitors, neighbors, and partners, is beginning the process of crafting a vision for the future of Ross Lake National Recreation Area (NRA). This vision will be contained within the form of an updated General Management Plan (GMP) for Ross Lake NRA. The GMP will be a broad-based plan that articulates and charts a course of action for Ross Lake NRA?s management for the next fifteen to twenty years. Ross Lake NRA is the most accessible part of the North Cascades National Park Service Complex. Ross Lake NRA protects 118,000 acres, is the corridor for scenic Washington State Route 20, the North Cascades Highway, and includes three reservoirs: Ross Lake, Diablo Lake, and Gorge Lake -- water gateways to more remote areas. Ringed by mountains, most of this area is designated wilderness and offers many outdoor recreation opportunities along the upper reaches of the Skagit River, and between the north and south units of North Cascades National Park. The National Park Service strives to protect Ross Lake NRA?s diverse resources and to provide today?s visitors and future generations with the opportunity to enjoy those resources. ?To succeed,? says Mr. Paleck, ?we must first have a vision for the future and then plan and act to ensure that our vision is achieved. We are reaching out for the public?s help and ideas as we develop an updated GMP for Ross Lake NRA.? In October 2006, the National Park Service is hosting seven workshops in the local North Cascades area, British Columbia, and Seattle. At these workshops, the public will learn more about the general management planning process and be encouraged to share ideas, concerns, and thoughts about Ross Lake NRA. These public workshops are the first step in a three year process to develop the updated General Management Plan, and the public?s ideas are an essential component to the planning process. Workshops are scheduled as follows: Tuesday, October 17 Concrete, Washington 6:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m. Concrete Senior Center 45821 Railroad Street Wednesday, October 18 Marblemount, Washington 6:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m. Marblemount Community Club 60099 State Route 20 Thursday, October 19 Sedro-Woolley, Washington 6:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m. North Cascades National Park Service Complex Headquarters 810 State Route 20 Monday, October 23 Bellingham, Washington 6:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m. Bellingham Senior Center 16315 Halleck Street Tuesday, October 24 Surrey, British Columbia 6:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m. Hosted by the Skagit Environmental Endowment Commission Surrey Community Services 9815 140th Street Wednesday, October 25 Chilliwack, British Columbia 6:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m. Hosted by the Skagit Environmental Endowment Commission Chilliwack Arts Council Lounge 45899 Henderson Avenue Thursday, October 26 Seattle, Washington 6:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m. Seattle Mountaineers Olympus Room 300 Third Street West The public is also encouraged to visit http://parkplanning.nps.gov/rola to learn more about the Ross Lake National Recreation Area General Management Plan, to submit comments, and to sign up for the General Management Plan mailing list. The public can also call 360-856-5700, email noca_superintendent@nps.gov, or write: Bill Paleck, Superintendent North Cascades National Park Service Complex 810 State Route 20 Sedro-Woolley, WA 98284

I have no idea why certain posters here seem so up in arms. All I was doing was posting a notice of potential access threats. I did not ask for anyone's time or money. You have no idea what efforts I have made to bring the road back to its original condition. Your assumptions that I am trying to force the landowner to take on that expense are wrong. I did not go on a tirade about logging. I did not criticize the timber company. I expressly stated it is their land and that they have a right to log it. I want to continue to have a good relationship with the landowner, and should have realized that might be threatened by posting ANYTHING on this site because of the incredibly strange reactions and ranting of certain posters. I would appreciate it if the moderator could please move this to spray or delete it entirely. Thanks.