John Frieh

Great pics Fairweather; thanks. Love that place

Not very. Go extra early... as the route gets sun the slab heats up

Bump.

pm on some of the alpinists

I've used an alpinist (older design) from Nunatak. 20 degrees; 25 ounces; zipperless. A little warm for summer in the cascades but perfect for winter in the cascades or spring in Alaska on route. Made in Washington (Twisp!) and worth every penny IMO

Right on; I've spent a number of days the past two years letting the snow pack heal itself in the Wrangell St Elias. A very humbling place for sure. I met some dudes this year that crossed a good portion of the Bagley using kites in combo with their skis... sounded like a rad trip.

AAC Pub Club this Thursday at Basecamp Brewing. 7pm. First round is on the club

Come out to the next ACC Oregon Section pub club; first round is on the club http://americanalpineclub.org/p/oregon They usually post events on their Facebook page

Sorry for hijack; great TR Steph DNB is one of the best routes in the Cascades IMO. To me it felt a lot like Stuart North Ridge (awesome position, aesthetic line, etc) but a little more wild. For sure don't expect as clean as CNR but do expect a great climb. Kearney's topo makes it seem bigger than it is; I remember belaying 12 pitches but that was with some simul climbing. The 10b move is maybe two moves (?) and easier for tall people so no reason to sweat it. Car to car is impressive and will require some luck onsighting the approach. I'd say better to play it safe and give yourself a day to get in and a day to climb the route and hike out. I've been into Bear 3x and each time I got lost in a different spot on the approach in or out.

Had some friends try over 4th of July weekend; pocket glacier had not slid.

I will again be partnering with the Mazamas this fall to offer a course on how to train for Alpine Climbing. There is an information session this Wednesday July 10th where you can ask any and all questions you might have regarding the course. Details: http://www.mazamas.org/your/adventure/starts-here/C636/

Yes it is! Don't rule out flying in. Get your hands on Puryear's book and check out some of the moderates off the Pika glacier like Lost Marsupial on The Throne. Watching the weather can make a quick weekend in and out a possibility. Chugach is a great recommendation also but a long drive if you're going to be in Fairbanks. I'd try and climb there while I was in ANC. PM wfinley on this page for some good routes and good beta

Westman gave me this beta in an email after he climbed it with Colin:

http://www.likeclockwork.tv/

BLM land is free and extremely close to the climbing. It's in the guidebook

Good times for sure. BIG thanks to all the people and sponsors for all the hard work to pull together such a great event! Looking forward to next year!

Helicopter approaches to the base of the route don't count as real climbing and you know it. Gargle butt gravy ass eyez! POT KETTLE! baa

Are you really the same windshirt kid everyone was picking on 10 years ago, nolse? In the flesh. Only I still climb and everyone else got fat and took up skiing.

I would make it a priority to figure out what your insurance does or doesn't cover. Even if you have to pay out of pocket seeing a PT or sports doc now will save you years of pain and suffering in future as well as likely not being able to do what you were hoping to do in your 30s. Find a local college where students are completing hours towards their accreditation for reduced rates. I'd also consider switching to swimming or something

Nice work dude

Rock quality improves as you travel south IMO. Old guard is chill and good quality. Terry and I climbed a number of 4th/low 5th class peaks near Dome on this trip: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=377413 and we were able to climb most of them with minimal rock rack. Elephants head (also near Dome) has a few 5.8ish routes on them (by Nelson if memory serves me right) that look great but can't say I climbed them. If you do the alternate exit out to Stehekin you'll go under gunsight which has a few high quality rock routes.

:tup:

Looks like attempt on unclimbed line on Dickey, Escalator on Johnson to the summit, Harvard on Huntington to the summit and attempt on Moonflower on Hunter...? Great video guys!

Cause Arcteryx jackets cost like 500 bucks. Or Patagonia. And both those companies have warranties that now are better than REI

Sure if you buy from a big box like REI that cares more about how many memberships the employee sells over their product knowledge then yes you stand a good chance of buying some shitty boots. But if you buy from a local box where the employee is out in the same conditions climbing the same mountains you are then no it wont happen.