John Frieh

There was an article in Rock and Ice or climbing about a year ago giving updated info regarding the cirque. I believe the article focused on two uncompleted routes on the vampire spires... I have it somewhere and could dig it up for you if want... let me know.

For those of us who care (if you don't STFU) we agree on the dates but what can and can't happen during this period? Approach?

Agreed but does the approach also have to be completed within that time period? What about the climb itself? So far I have only heard one person say that the climber must be on the summit after the first day of winter.

Then how is claiming a first ski (and the kids seem to be interested in reporting if it was alpine, tele or snowboard) descent any different than a first winter ascent? Seems you are interested in those...

Access where? Biles are ILLEGAL in most climbing areas (enchantments, etc). Biles are great avy triggers too. I always love watching the kids high point in that gulley above the hair pin turn east of WA pass... natural selection real time.

I'm with you winter: he started the route before Dec 21st and furthermore he wasn’t on the summit after Dec 21st. I ask the question as a good example would be this coming weekend: good weather so one could start skiing into the Pickets Sat and not start climbing until Monday. Would that count if one summited something? Or what if someone started up Liberty Ridge on Sat and didn't top out until Monday. Would that count? Or what if someone approached to the top of the Carbon and didn't get onto the ridge proper until Monday. Would that count if they topped out? Discuss.

8 seconds!

Thanks Alex! Isn't the horse camp approximately 8 miles from the TH? I can't find a map...

I was reading the story and it got me wondering... What qualifies as a calendar winter ascent? Not starting the approach until the first day of winter? Starting the approach before the first day of winter but not starting the route until the first day of winter (example: ski to the base and then sit and wait for the first day of winter before starting)? Starting the route prior to the first day of winter but not summiting until the first day of winter (example: climb Liberty Ridge over 3 days and on the third day which also happens to be the first day of winter summit and descend)? What is the definition of a proper calendar winter ascent?

just got it... not an anthology but damn if this doesn't cover like 20 12"

Bump. Any updates? Also: does anyone know where the road gets closed at "full winter conditions"? I heard 8 miles from the TH from someone... truth?

Bump. Any update? Info? Also: does anyone know where the road gets closed at "full winter conditions"? Isn't it right past snow creek parking lot?

Horsethief. If it would help I could loan you my guidebook for OR.

I'll buy them both; you name the price. Check your pms.

Yeah... at least 4 people from pdxkayaker lost their boat this weekend... one crazy weekend in the water.

Skiing: yes but take your rock skis and check avy conditions on the approach/route. Climing: depends on route... which one you hoping for?

Disclaimer: Though these are goals I know I won’t get all of these done due to a number of reasons including but not limited to the fact that I don’t have a committed partner for a bunch of these… if you see something you like or have something on your to do list that seems similar to these… shoot me a pm . Flame on kids… Winter Dragontail – DT madness Little Tahoma – west ridge (need a partner… anyone?) Stuart – Blue Moon in June Secret – FA north face, FA nw ridge Secret FWAs Spring Alaska and/or Peru trip Rainier – Curtis Ridge Rainier – Nisqually slog fest unrest with the boss Cutthroat – e face couloir Hyndman and/or Old Hyndman Summer Secret – FA Secret – FA west face, FA east face Secret – FFA west face Mt Hardy Bear – Diamond Index – NNB Stuart – Dietrich route Stuart – Kearney route EMS – sw face Dragontail – Dragonfly Orbit/Outer Space/ Hyperspace in a day Nooksack – Bertulis Grand Wall +/or Cruel Shoes (no I haven’t done them.. yes I suck ) Elephant’s Perch – as many routes as I can climb Finger of Fate – every summer till I die Fall Cutthroat – Firefighter SEWS - Infurno Lib Bell - Freedom Rider Lexington – Tooth and Claw with Rudy blah blah blah…

Arcteryx has to date changed the design twice now... both times dealers were allowed to clear the old design out at 50% of retail... I picked one up at 200 bucks from Bentgate.net last summer. Good parka... not as warm as a big down one (expected). One thing I would change (I'm not sure if the new design offers this) is insulate the pockets... mine has the pockets outside of the insulation so my hands don't stay warm inside the pockets unless I have gloves on.

d00d: spit... don't swallow and you'll hit that weight goal no problem is that how you stay so svelte and lean??? When i saw you at smiff, i woulda guessed you were the "swallowing" type Speaking of fatties... isn't Cracked pushing 200 lbs?

d00d: spit... don't swallow and you'll hit that weight goal no problem

1 out of 4

Fromage: I torqued/bent a 3mm pick on my ergos to the point that its unusable unless I develop a curve ball swing (didn't break it though). Since then I have switched to the 4mm quad picks... no problems yet except they have the sharpness of butter knives. I like the quad 4mm pick better as: - the first tooth is twice the length of the first tooth on the 3mm Petzl offering... hooks much nicer... less likely to pop off when you switch hands from lower to upper handle - the top of the pick sports mini teeth that skate less (compared to a pick that lacks these teeth) when one executes a stein pull.

Because at this point Grivel doesn't sell replacement picks. Read the blurp at the bottom: Head is not modular

What about the fact that you can't replace the pics? 125 is cheaper than a pair of rock shoes but at least you can resole rock shoes... At 5mm do you think you could snap the pic under normal wear and tear? I love my quark ergos but am thinking about a pair of these for pure drytooling...