John Frieh

Sweet! I need a ropegun... I can carry all the stuff so you don't develop leg muscles.

Forrest is a big kid... he can handle himself just fine. Wish I could go in there with him Have fun d00d!

70s for life! Link 'em up! Edit: so I should clarify a little... 70s for life in the alpine. 70s at many cragging areas is just extra weight... you should scope pitch lengths prior (if possible) and determine if you can link pitches are not. Good examples: Most pitches at smith don't break 35 m so you can link 2 in one. Same story on many routes at WA Pass and city of rocks. But in other areas (sawtooths) pitches are closer to 40-50 m so linking isn't an option and you end up with extra weight if you bring 70s. So... likely you will own a number of different lengths. And one time in the alpine you might want 60s is if you plan on simulclimbing... generally people half a rope (one person tie to end and other person ties into ends) to simul. Doing this w/ a 60 is cool but with a 70 you are almost too far out of verbal contact if the route is windy (good example N ridge of stuie) a 60 will facilitate easier contact. So... generally I reach for the 70s but from time to time I bring a 60.

(length of dynamic) x (% elongation)= length of elongation Add length of elongation to length of dynamic and this will tell you how long you need your static to be. Add on a few meters on to that value for rap anchor material.

Perhaps the rep can answer... I know that the grivel pick is 5mm where the petzl quad is 4mm so yeah not much difference. Kinda sounds like we all want a replaceable pick...

I bet the fab process they use is more costly due to the complexity of the pick design and the increased difficulty of cutting the shape in a thicker metal no less.

That winter would have been the shit for FWAs...

Agreed... the pick is beefy! However more than half the price of the tool is still less than the full price of the tool. Just a thought. You should start a thread with a poll and see if people would buy the tool only if a replaceable pick was offered or if they have/are planning on buying one regardless of the fixed pick. And thanks again for making some sweet gear!

Hope you can join us some other time Tex... If you want I can give you location specifics and pics of the lines... Before I suckered some partners in crime I had success doing the ascender/chest harness/fixed line thing solo. Let me know…

I know... I'm saying you guys should change the design so poor slobs like myself can save some cash by replacing just the pick instead of throwing away the whole tool after the pick is shot and having to buy a new one. Maybe I should chop the old one when its shot and weld on whatever fits.

Yeah... I have plans tonight so I vote for Thursday. Please PM me if you are going to attend Thursday so I know how many TRs to bring... unless of course you don't mind standing in line waiting for a TR.

I should be able to make Thursday... I'll know later in the week. Same time? And everyone else: PM me if you still want to go Wednesday... I'd be stoked to go 2 days.

I trashed a pair of ice lines on a handful of routes over 6 months (only jugged on once) so unless you have money to burn or are going to only climb ice you might want to look at something a little thicker... I have a pair of 8.6s from Blue Water that are wearing nicely but still aren't that heavy. Guess it depends on what you have in store for them...

I agree... Beal ropes don't hold their dry rope treatment as well as other companies (Blue Water) but their impact force smokes Mammuts which IMO should be the first or second thing you look at in an alpine rope. I just retreat mine more often (but I also own ropes from Blue Water and Mammut).

I'll try fitting it on my ecrin.

Dumb question - I have been wondering if it's possible to fit one of these on a petzl ecrin roc. Petzl claims any helmet though they specifically reinforce the Elios's plastic at the points you are suppose to drill so you don’t crack the helmet (which my friend did). I don’t see why you couldn’t… I have an old ecrin at home that has had one too many head shot… I drill it and see how well it fits and post pics.

I kinda have both setups (I use halfs not twins). For routes that the second can follow with a pack on and/or I can lead with a pack on (if we take 2 packs) or a rope getting cut is a major concern I take the halfs. Generally ice routes and moderate alpine rock routes. For routes that the second can not follow with a pack or (more likely) I can't lead wearing my pack (so the second is stuck with both and therefore will jug) I take the single + tag line. Generally harder rock routes. With that said my partner jugged one of my 8.1s this summer while I hauled the packs on the other and he didn't whine too much. Though I wore those 70s out in about 6 months. I would say if you go with the twin rope system I would steer you towards halfs. I've owned twins and they are okay but halfs are better IMO. Twight has an excellent discussion on this subject in his book.

dirt on your shoulder

Maybe a second monster slide will come down and clear all the down trees clogging upper Bachelor Creek basin.

Petzl Face shield... goggles fit underneath it comfortable for those windy days on the mtn and you don't get those mystery cheekbone scars. REI has them on sale for cheap right now. I have ripped one off this year so far and REI gave me a new one.

Willamette was serving premium grade A mung sprinkled with rain on Sat. Yummy.

How about you get us a monster with a replaceable pic? Yeah my rock shoes are 125 but I can resole them...

Hillegerg makes a 3 person. details

Roll call bitches This means you Pete! Jan. 20th (unless a different night works for people... let me know). 3:30ish till pump out. PM me if you are coming and if you need/want to borrow any gear (gear/location details above). One addition to gear list: bring a prusik or ascender.

I have the 5th and 7th edition of the binghams and the white one by some d00d (forget his name); I'd sell you the 5th for cheap if you're looking for one. Bingham also has the castle rock guide book out... go there if you go to the city.