LYleK

that is likely the case, they are placed in an unfortunate location. speaking of booty, on the FA of OJ I dropped a new Chouinard screw and it landed about a metre from the belayer who watched it land in the powder. He waited 'til I topped out before looking for it, and we never did find it . I went back the next spring to get it, and of course there was a pool at the base with a silty bottom, it's still there somewhere.

I just got a call from a friend who climbed OJ on the weekend, he said they had it to themselves for the day (whereas Marble sounded v. busy). He had to park back by the last cabins/ houses, and there were no tracks into the falls. He said it was thin but fun, the screws were squeaking as they went in and lots of dinner-plating. He noted a bulgy, cauliflower section just before the tree/ ledge at the 3/4 point. So anyway, he rapped near dark and his two ropes got stuck, and his g/f was ready to go (home ). So, hanging down OJ are a couple of ropes; one is a 10.5mm fuzzy blue caterpillar that is close to retirement, the other is a new, dry 7.5mm. Booty is booty, but if you happen upon the ropes and you're feeling generous, he can be contacted at tedtiger@hotmail.com.

There is a weather station in Clinton (http://weatherpixie.com/index.php?place=CWCL), so you'd think the forecasting for the area takes their local conditions into account. That said, the 5-day forecast for 100MH and Clinton are identical.

It's staying cool in Clinton though (only 28km to the north of Marble), it's -8C right now and is supposed to be below or near -10C at night through to Monday. Though I guess I'm kinda of blowing my case if I'm trying to keep people away ... Is the lake "unthawing" or "thawing," I always mix that up...?

Everything has melted. The lake has unthawed. And the road has been blocked by a landslide. Got it

Did you notice conditions on the upper tier at Marble? Could IcyBC still be led or was it gone ? Lyle

Cougar Canyon - Vernon, BC. Similar rock to Skaha (though more choss), about 150 - 160 routes plus some v.cool bouldering at the bottom. Worth a look if you're passing through but dunno if I'd roadtrip for it. FireArms and Steepers Creepers are pretty sweet, though.

Thanks for the update, amazing you could get up Yak in early March! It looks like we're back to more seasonal conditions now, so back to cougar we go. lk

Just wondering if anyone has beta on Yak conditions at present? I seem to remember that it streaks wet 'til the snowcap is gone but if you've got a recent conditions report to post I'd appreciate it. Thanks, lk

Yea, I have to admit this particular genre of mtn. film/ adventure isn't for everyone. The whole "climbing for a cause" topic would make a good thread: "Is it worthy of climber-related lit and film (do climbers really want to see it?) or is it more designed for pop press to raise awareness and $$?" I have the same opinion of films about penguins at mtn. film fests (or threatened nomadic tribes, Arctic caribou, Russian kayaking, etc.), the "mtn. culture" umbrella seems to cover a big area. Not that there's anything wrong with penguins.

Here's a link to Brad's website: http://www.verticalchallenge.org/ Bogen, why the negative attitude towards his efforts? bz was a good climber dealt a really tough hand; he still wants to get vertical and it all works towards providing hope/ motivation to others affected by spinal injury. brad's a good guy and is doing his best to make lemonade; I only hope I'd have the same drive if I found myself under similar circumstances. lk

Here's another pic from the Viewpoint. It's about 60m from the top to the Wilow River.

If you find yourself in Prince George during the winter it's worth checking out the Willow Canyon for ice. It's about 30km east of Prince George on Highway #16 and you can pretty much drive to the top of the climbs (if the logging road is not plowed then it is a 1.5km flat hike). While there is a serious lack of snow in the area this winter (they had to truck snow in for a Provincial x/c comp last weekend) it is still at least -10C every night so there is a good supply of ice. There are four routes in the picture, from top left: Farmed 1: A thin mixed line that may not be in. Farmed 2: The next one down was a thin pillar a few years ago but now looks mixed and likely unprotected by bolts (but I think it has a chain belay). Farmed 3: The main pillar is formed fatter this year than I've seen in the past. Chain belay, WI5/ WI5+. Natural 1: There is a fourth climb that is just visible lower right, and moreso through the trees on the second pic from the viewpoint. It is a braided WI2/ WI2+ and has bolt anchors scattered around, lots of options. If the river is not frozen then you've got to rap in and climb out of the farmed routes so check conditions from the Viewpoint before rapping down (and either TR it first or fix a line for getting back out). If the river is frozen you can walk down left of the Viewpoint on a trail and to the base of the routes. The natural route can be rapped or walked into, there is a wide spot at the base to set up. You can also traverse in to a tree near the base of Farmed 3 (main pillar) from Natural 1, but would likely want to be roped up. The terrain above is flat and swampy, the farmers have set a cut barrel into the ground which draws in water, and then is piped off to the top of the canyon. Kudos to the farmers (Cox/ Lacelle?), we had an excellent day out on Saturday (Feb 19) enjoying your efforts. PM me if you want directions.

The Theft

A New Leash On Life (some cooler weather may bring the unclimbed second pitch (Unleashed- WCI vol2 page 202) in ...)