John Frieh

I agree... Beal ropes don't hold their dry rope treatment as well as other companies (Blue Water) but their impact force smokes Mammuts which IMO should be the first or second thing you look at in an alpine rope. I just retreat mine more often (but I also own ropes from Blue Water and Mammut).

I'll try fitting it on my ecrin.

Dumb question - I have been wondering if it's possible to fit one of these on a petzl ecrin roc. Petzl claims any helmet though they specifically reinforce the Elios's plastic at the points you are suppose to drill so you don’t crack the helmet (which my friend did). I don’t see why you couldn’t… I have an old ecrin at home that has had one too many head shot… I drill it and see how well it fits and post pics.

I kinda have both setups (I use halfs not twins). For routes that the second can follow with a pack on and/or I can lead with a pack on (if we take 2 packs) or a rope getting cut is a major concern I take the halfs. Generally ice routes and moderate alpine rock routes. For routes that the second can not follow with a pack or (more likely) I can't lead wearing my pack (so the second is stuck with both and therefore will jug) I take the single + tag line. Generally harder rock routes. With that said my partner jugged one of my 8.1s this summer while I hauled the packs on the other and he didn't whine too much. Though I wore those 70s out in about 6 months. I would say if you go with the twin rope system I would steer you towards halfs. I've owned twins and they are okay but halfs are better IMO. Twight has an excellent discussion on this subject in his book.

dirt on your shoulder

Maybe a second monster slide will come down and clear all the down trees clogging upper Bachelor Creek basin.

Petzl Face shield... goggles fit underneath it comfortable for those windy days on the mtn and you don't get those mystery cheekbone scars. REI has them on sale for cheap right now. I have ripped one off this year so far and REI gave me a new one.

Willamette was serving premium grade A mung sprinkled with rain on Sat. Yummy.

How about you get us a monster with a replaceable pic? Yeah my rock shoes are 125 but I can resole them...

Hillegerg makes a 3 person. details

Roll call bitches This means you Pete! Jan. 20th (unless a different night works for people... let me know). 3:30ish till pump out. PM me if you are coming and if you need/want to borrow any gear (gear/location details above). One addition to gear list: bring a prusik or ascender.

I have the 5th and 7th edition of the binghams and the white one by some d00d (forget his name); I'd sell you the 5th for cheap if you're looking for one. Bingham also has the castle rock guide book out... go there if you go to the city.

You guys ever had a partner black out while you are leading hard trad? I have. How about someone who is severely allergic to certain pain killers have a reaction? All I'm saying.

Take a WFR. Learn why you should ask those questions of new partners unless of course you don't plan on venturing outside the safe confines of smith.

I can't agree with you more... suck! It’s funny looking in the partners wanted forum right today and I see at least a few fluffed climbing abilities being advertised. And I wouldn't know any better unless my path had crossed theirs at some point. Generally I tend to ask very specific questions: What are some of the harder routes you've done? Why? Which pitches did you lead? What pitches did you follow? What is the hardest route you have bailed off of? Why did you bail? What is your climbing background? Where did you acquire your climbing skill set? Who else from the site have you climbed with? Do you know how to belay escape/lower someone? Have you practiced it? What first aid/avy/etc training do you have? What expectations do you have for this climb? What expectations do you have of me as a partner? And generally even after that I only commit to routes/climbs I know I could ropegun every pitch and bail easily if necessary. After a few test climbs then I feel comfortable going after the more committing routes with them. And always make sure to ask: to you have any allergies? are you on any meds? do you have any medical conditions I should know about?

OR made one for a few years... if you look hard enough online you might find one but they are spendy. The double actually doesn’t actually save any weight over 2 single bivy bags (at least compared to the lighter model bivy sacks on the market). The way to save weight if you do find a double is to share a sleeping bag (nunatak makes some sweet ones). One thing I have done is take an I tent (or something comparable) and leave the poles at home… its not as light as two singles or ORs double but you do save a little. I am willing to bet if you ask super nicely OR would let you have a copy of their double pattern... troll around and see who has OR connections and see what they can do it for you. Hope this helps!

only if the "routes" are less than 20 moves.

pink is the new black

yes he is. photoshop anyone? fern?

I think it comes down to how passionate/committed you are to pursuing climbing and furthermore the type (alpine vs sport vs mtneering vs etc). After you determine that and which portion of the cascades matches your interests better (most likely Northern is going to be better then central) the next step is finding a city you can stomach that is close. I saw someone suggested Wenatchee… yes that’s even closer than Seattle but 1) can you get employment there and 2) can you deal with the local scene? I would think if you were independently wealthy and already married you would live in Twisp or Mazama or Wintrop. But just a guess. So… along those lines: what is the closest city to what you want to climb that you can get work in? For me it’s PDX which isn’t that bad… I just have to change my oil twice a month. And asking people what they like about a city is fair but not really applicable. What one person looks for in a city might be a deterrent for someone else and a mute argument for a third. So… make sure the n. cascades is where its at for you and then determine if the extra amount of driving isn’t something you want to put up with and then make a decision.

Yeah I got some of his shit on vinyl too.

I would live in Seattle if I could but work prevents that. In lieu of my current location I have still managed to climb every weekend since March 04 (with the exception of 3 weekends) almost all of those being in WA state. But I also put 40K on my truck in that same time frame. If you got the option move assuming you are going to take advantage of all WA offers.

I have that song on a 12" single live with the roots backing him, Erykah Badu and Zach de la Rocha. hot hot hot

Tentative plan is 3:30ish until 6:30/7 but we can stay later if people aren't showing up until later. If you are securing a kitchen pass with the wife make sure to build in some burrito time into your proposal. PM me with Q's up until 2; after that: cell: 541.231.2062 alphanumeric: 888.267.5727

Last time I checked this thread is about belay jackets warm enough to be used as the upper half of a half bag. Anybody else spent some nights in a half bag? I'd be curious to hear what you are using. Bubba climbs in that jacket and carries a full sleeping bag. And it doesn't hurt that he is paid to test that stuff.