John Frieh

Nobody said anything about me being an expert. If they did they would be wrong. But I find it comical how opinionated some people are about gear they have never even worn or venues they don’t pursue. Maybe a micropuff is adequate for you due to a higher percentage body fat.

From the guy who doesn't alpine climb. Hmmm...

Endurance. Alfred Lansing. Will put things into perspective about what is and isn't an epic. Has anyone visited Sir Ernest's grave? Or touched the James Caird in London?

Micropuff isn't warm enough to be considered a belay jacket IMO.

Epic.

Which 2?

Do routes in a day and carry no bivy gear or go from a high point (Muir, etc) and leave everything in the tent. Mtn Hardwear makes a good light pair (PG3D)... I have a pair I'll sell you. The new ones from Arc Teryx look like the shit. Negligible

As the saying goes: If you aren't cold you brought too many clothes If you aren't hungry you brought too much food And if you summit it was too easy anyways. Trying going bagless a few times this summer at Smith or something... getting a gauge of what you can and can't do in the alpine with out a bag is a good idea.

If you're gonna get wet and want to go light its the shit. And for you midgets (Rudy!) its almost a full bag!

One of my partners has a DAS and the other has a WT... neither one seems to bitch too much about being cold on route (or maybe they are too busy bitching about me running it out... are you reading this fuckers! call me and lets go climbing!). I had a DAS test garment once... did fine. If it matters to you Patagonia has a better warranty (as liberal as REI) but WTs has a waterproof zipper. AMGA likes the WT one. I think either one is great. I use an arcteryx fission only because it is goretex in the shell so I can leave my goretex jacket at home and climb in soft shell (alpha comp hoody). Good combo for me.

Depends on conditions on route. I have taken my orange nunatak bag (which is a full length zipperless 25 oz 800+ fill down bag ) on multiple day routes in winter but only if the forecast was dry or super cold and wet (so the precip that fell was in the snow form which is much easier to protect your bag from). If its gonna be wet I take the half bag. What routes are you looking at?

What routes are you thinking about using this combo on? Generally if its cold enough to merit a belay jacket I am in climbing pants Arcteryx MX pants or Gamma SV bibs (don't make these anymore). You will get cold well before 25 if you wear that.

Polarguard is a continuous fiber (most other brands are not) so it resists loft loss over time a little better. I've owned most syns and haven't noticed much difference. Buy a garment from someone that has a good warranty if you are worried.

Oh... and I'm going to try and make this a weekly activity so if you can't make it this week you can come next...

I choose this combo for routes I know I am going to get soaked on (hence syn fill over down) and will most likely wearing leathers (bag is cut big enough for boots). Additionally the bag has bivy sack material intergrated into fabric so you can leave bivy sack at home. My preference is generally - no sleeping bag if too cold: - nunatak down bag if wet conditions: - half bag + belay jacket What pants are you wearing for the bivy or do you walk around in your long underwear?

http://nunatakusa.com/ Don't bitch about the prices... you get what you pay for!

Sorry to disappoint but this is not a thread about getting together and pooling money for a group rate on a hooker in NE… (but what you do afterwards is your business) This is a thread for anyone who: - has come to the conclusion that though you spent way more on a pair of ice tools than just about any other piece of equipment you own (rock shoes, etc) you use them way less (if not the least) - has decided that the best place to learn how to dry tool is probably on TR and not 30’ above a bullshit picket somewhere off route on Hood - would like to the chance to “accidentally” drop an ice tool on mine or anyone else’s head from this site you find annoying and/or stupid (sorry I can’t guarantee Iain is going to show ) - need a reason to justify buying new crampons to the wife (look… they’re bent! and dull! please?!?) - are a cute single female who finds bandanas and/or leather vests attractive and additionally has googled the name Michael Layton prior to attending (google block!) - are a scrawny 140 lb boulder who in lieu of the fact that you post numerous pics of your crimp fest exploits and could out crank anyone from this site (if the approach isn’t longer than ¼ mile) for the life of you still can’t seem to impress fellow lady climbers and need to find a more impressive type of climbing - are burnt out on the gym - is just interested in trying out dry tooling… no prior experience required! Bottom line: Myself and a few other social inept have been dry tooling at rock butte for the past few months and thought we’d extend the invite to anyone (lurkers included) interested. Honestly we are a bunch of bumbles so don’t sweat us publicly heckling you if you can’t send M4. This is a great chance to pump your self silly all while trying out yet another type of climbing and meeting some fellow turds from cc.com… think of it as alpiners anonymous… Details: First annual drytool night will be this Wednesday, January 12. Ivan will likely be there first at 3:30ish… I should be there by 4. We generally stay at least a few hours unless people want to come but can’t be there until 6 then I am willing to stay… let me know. We will be climbing c. 150’ climbers left of the silver bullet wall. If you don’t know where this is just follow these instructions: After 3 speedbumps the road bends right and passes a big tan dome building. Park past the big tan dome building (look for a silver pickup), cross the road into the woods and walk c. 100’. You should immediately pass a tunnel on your right that goes underneath the road (good warm up area is you are early). Walk c. 100’ along the top of the cliff looking for some TR anchors/listening for the sounds of shitty footwork with crampons on (screech!) and Ivan’s famous lead mouth . I will put some green glow sticks on the TR anchors so we are more easily identified and it will scare away the bums. If you start to head significantly downhill you have gone too far. What to bring: - helmet (preferable with a face shield or other eye protection… though if you have good looks to spare unlike the rest of us don’t worry about it) If you don’t have one or one with a face shield but would like to have a face shield let me know… we can rotate. - harness with belay device - ice tools if you have them. If you don’t have a pair let me know and it shouldn’t be a problem. - crampons: preferable something with longer points (i.e sabertooths, sarkens, etc). shorter points are okay but you’re going to have to work a little harder. Again if you don’t have them but want to borrow let me know. - boots: leathers climb better but if you want to try and simulate alpine conditions wear what you would in the alpine. Bring ice cubes if you want me to drop them on you if you really want to stimulate alpine conditions. What ever you bring make sure you can get pons on them. - headlamp. If you don’t have a pair let me know and it shouldn’t be a problem. We stay well after sunset so be prepared! - warm jacket (it gets cold), rain gear - beverage of choice (thermos of hot coffee is highly recommended and a good way to make friends and send hard shit ) - either tight fitting full fingered gloves or a lot of tape and band aids (ask Ivan ) With everything you bring don’t bother with your fancy stuff… its muddy and most likely wet… no reason to trash your goretex taking swingers… insulated Carhartt work great. This especially applies to gloves… you will beat on them so what ever they are make sure they aren’t your new pair. And if people want to try out different tools (especially leashless) or crampons (monos) this would be a good opportunity… I am happy letting people test drive my ergos or monos (let me know if this is the case)… I hope others don’t mind sharing too. What to do prior to showing up - pm me and let me know you’re coming so I can determine how many TRs we need - tell your boss you have a dentist appointment or something and need to leave work tomorrow early (or skip your classes if you are a student… that means you OSU!) - if your crampons have two front bail positions move the bail back so you get as much front point showing as possible (and make sure your pons are sized to the boots you plan on wearing - remove your adze unless you are brave enough to cam it - if you have multiple picks put in your most beat up pair… they should be negative-clearance picks… don’t sweat the point of the tool being sharp… just make sure the initial set of teeth are somewhat sharp. If you have your choice put in 4mm picks. Bring an extra pick just in case - take off your antibott plates (especially if you have plastic ones like those on the sarkens)… they unfortunately don’t keep the used condoms from balling up on your pons. Finally Generally we hit burrito loco # 3 afterward for some cheap authentic grub and the chance to cauterize any wounds you incur with the hot sauce there (ask Ivan) and talk shit about routes you found biners on. PM me if you will be joining us!

20 degrees is a liberal rating but it so depends on how much clothes you have on inside the bag. I've used it down to zero with ample clothes (generally your partners aren't as stupid as you about weight saving and bring a full bag so you can wear there belay jackets in addition to yours. I use mine with an arcteryx fission. You could just get a Nunatuk 20 degree arc alpinist (full length) for the same weight of just the half bag. All in all it works for me. What other Q's do you have?

You got me. I bought my vest and bandana at abercrombie and fitch.

I don't think weather is your biggest concern at this point. www.csac.org

I'll take any and all old gear. Name your price. PM me with what you got. Especially interested in wooden handled ice axes and anything Chouinard.

Mike: is her name Michelle?

Bob Wills Keep 'em coming! Double E: you're right. I am so totally gay. Flaming. That biner I found on GP... I actually fished it out of my lovers ass.

Especially when its off your car so Larry da Tool can't ticket your car at the TH. I prefer the cardboard frisbee...

PM Retired or OldManRock. If they haven't they will at least know someone who has.