John Frieh

Post deleted by NOLSe

No drytool session the week of March 27th - April 2nd (unless someone else steps up and organizes )... sorry! I'll try to have one the week of April 3rd - 9th. In case you haven't noticed it is staying light out much later these days... time to shake off that winter rust and get in shape for the looming summer! PDXers unite!

No cornice currently, avy danger should be low but check it on way in. With recent snow fall expect some post holing but nothing epic. With a few partners you can rotate trail breaking duty. Climber's left side is currently easier; nothing harder than WI3. 15 degree bag is plenty. Have fun and keep your eye out for a Petzl Quark Ergo please!

Rafael: LOL Good info RH! I was always told the yellow hard man pad had a better R value... guess not. Not that anyone cares but I use a 3/4 ridge rest in winter in combo with the foam out of my wild things backpack and in the summer just the foam out of my wild things backpack.

Start here: http://www.elephantsperch.com/ Give them a call... I anticipate you are a little early season though.

Ridge rest packs smaller. Yellow pad has better R value.

Keep the faith my friend... of the great alpinists present and past more were/are bald then not. Just consider it an indicator of things to come.

How about a kegger somewhere (perhaps in conjunction with spring ski in) and people can donate money for the cause in exchange for free beer? If only we knew someone willing to donate a few kegs to help raise funds to save this crag ( ). Props to the WCC and all those who have donated for making a difference!

Next session is Tuesday March 22th 3:30ish – pump. I know at least one person that can't make this night so I will likely have a second night Wednesday if enough people request it. Please PM me if you are planning on attending/interested (specify which night you would like) and what, if any, gear you need to borrow. Newbies are welcome and encouraged. As always: cell: 541.231.2062 alphanumeric: 888.267.5727

So does this mean you're never going to stop stalking my girlfriend beeyotch? dude, she's the one stalking me I would encourage you to wear your helmet and be prepared to explain your comment next time you go the coffee shop d00d ... she lurks here if you didn't know.

Your guess is as good as mine... if I had to guess I would say slightly climber's left of the pillar proper (we weren’t on Jim’s route). Chances are the tool was flying at that point so it probably cart wheeled a bit into the upper cirque. If memory serves me well I believe there was a crevasse that the tool might have ended up in. With that said even if I get it back (which I would like too) I couldn’t climb on the tool and feel safe about it so I ponyed up last night and bought a new one… big ups to Gavin at US Outdoor (a cc.com sponsor!) for the bro deal! w00t! I think I figured a new attachment system out that should prevent a repeat of this incident. And a few more pics from my pathetic climbing career: Wankster: Two pair of crampons are aid: Tuck tail and bail

Someone, who shall remain nameless, is belay station organization challenged.

So does this mean you're never going to stop stalking my girlfriend beeyotch?

So was this Jim's 50th or 49th time summiting Stuart? Good work guys!

Why do I get the feeling I am going to regret this? First: I don’t carry a tape measure in the mtns so the following distances are approximate. Had a 3 piece anchor (2 nuts 1 cam) equalized with a webolette. Initial moves off the anchor looked hard so I clipped the highest piece in the anchor with a draw and clipped both ropes (was climbing on 8.6 half ropes) through this draw. Attempted moves and fell onto draw. My feet were about a foot above the piece I fell on when the fall occurred; as I am 6’ I estimate I fell 8’ (3’ from my harness to my feet + 1’ from my feet to the piece I fell on = 4’ of rope from last piece to harness) on 5’ (4’ from harness to piece + 1’ from belayer’s device to draw) of rope which comes out around 1.6. I am not interested in debating fall factors, what happened, didn’t happen, what I should of done, how much I suck, how small my dick is, how patetic my climbing career is, how stupid NOLS is, my scooping technique, how stupid/cocky/arrogant/shallow/convoluted etc you think I am in lieu of the fact you have never met me and so on (did I miss anything?). If you have further questions/concerns/complaints/jokes/hate mail/etc please just send them to me in pm form… i.e. please just leave this thread alone. If you must to have a dog pile I believe there are a number of excellent threads in spray you could bump back up and have a gay old time at my expense. Enjoy! And as always: if you find my tool give me a shout! See you in the mtns! John

Dru has a good point... My purpose in asking for no spray was I just didn't want this thread to turn into another "found biner on GP" incident. I actually was using tentacles (the grivel double spring) to avoid dropping them (and it was actually working quite well up to that point in the route) but managed to rip the attachment system I had rigged (hence the ripped hockey tape) off and one of the two tools (I was able to hang onto one) took the ride when I factor 1.8ed on the anchor... Lucky for me I was carrying a single aztar with me so I wasn't completely fuct. So… if someone finds my tool I would be stoked to get it back. Please?

Glad I could help man... sounds like you avoided the butt raping descent Terry and I enjoyed so fully earlier this winter. Good work on a fine climb!

Lost (dropped) 1 Petzl Quark Ergo 2003 model. Based on fall line tool should currently be located somewhere in the upper ice cliff couloir directly below the girth pillar on Mt Stuart (just left of the NE face route start)… hopefully not in a crevasse. Tool has 4mm quad pick in it… though there is a good chance the pick is partially snapped off if it is still in tact should have the sharpness/character of a butter knife that has been ran through the kitchen sink garbage disposal one too many times. Tool also has 2 - ½” white hockey tape strips on orange handle that are partially ripped and a piece of duct tape on upper shaft covering the hole for where the bolt would go if one was climbing using the detachable leashes. If you find my tool I will gladly pay your finders fee. Call me: 541.231.2062 PS: unless you have my tool or know someone who does you likely don’t have a good reason to be posting/spraying in this thread. Thanks!

Route development is currently occurring throughout Rocky; however mostly on the far end. Individuals interested in route locations should drop me a line or come on out.

First red badge of courage last night! Just in time for someone's life insurance interview. Next session is Tuesday March 15th 3:30ish – pump. I know at least one person that can't make this night so I will likely have a second night Wednesday if enough people request it. Please PM me if you are planning on attending/interested (specify which night you would like) and what, if any, gear you need to borrow. Newbies are welcome and encouraged. I will be out of town Friday afternoon till Monday night so don't expect a reply until Tuesday. As always: cell: 541.231.2062 alphanumeric: 888.267.5727

Per your request fox some new material to dogpile. Make sure to spray on these photos in Tydog's gallery. Big ups to Ty for shooting some pics and showing me that new route... hope to send it clean tonight . Good to see Doug and his friend (I am not going to even attempt to try and spell your name ). Hope to see you 2 next week and more new people ! Ty: Steve: Everybody's favorite bitch:

Hard to believe huh?