John Frieh

You guys ever had a partner black out while you are leading hard trad? I have. How about someone who is severely allergic to certain pain killers have a reaction? All I'm saying.

Take a WFR. Learn why you should ask those questions of new partners unless of course you don't plan on venturing outside the safe confines of smith.

I can't agree with you more... suck! It’s funny looking in the partners wanted forum right today and I see at least a few fluffed climbing abilities being advertised. And I wouldn't know any better unless my path had crossed theirs at some point. Generally I tend to ask very specific questions: What are some of the harder routes you've done? Why? Which pitches did you lead? What pitches did you follow? What is the hardest route you have bailed off of? Why did you bail? What is your climbing background? Where did you acquire your climbing skill set? Who else from the site have you climbed with? Do you know how to belay escape/lower someone? Have you practiced it? What first aid/avy/etc training do you have? What expectations do you have for this climb? What expectations do you have of me as a partner? And generally even after that I only commit to routes/climbs I know I could ropegun every pitch and bail easily if necessary. After a few test climbs then I feel comfortable going after the more committing routes with them. And always make sure to ask: to you have any allergies? are you on any meds? do you have any medical conditions I should know about?

OR made one for a few years... if you look hard enough online you might find one but they are spendy. The double actually doesn’t actually save any weight over 2 single bivy bags (at least compared to the lighter model bivy sacks on the market). The way to save weight if you do find a double is to share a sleeping bag (nunatak makes some sweet ones). One thing I have done is take an I tent (or something comparable) and leave the poles at home… its not as light as two singles or ORs double but you do save a little. I am willing to bet if you ask super nicely OR would let you have a copy of their double pattern... troll around and see who has OR connections and see what they can do it for you. Hope this helps!

only if the "routes" are less than 20 moves.

pink is the new black

yes he is. photoshop anyone? fern?

I think it comes down to how passionate/committed you are to pursuing climbing and furthermore the type (alpine vs sport vs mtneering vs etc). After you determine that and which portion of the cascades matches your interests better (most likely Northern is going to be better then central) the next step is finding a city you can stomach that is close. I saw someone suggested Wenatchee… yes that’s even closer than Seattle but 1) can you get employment there and 2) can you deal with the local scene? I would think if you were independently wealthy and already married you would live in Twisp or Mazama or Wintrop. But just a guess. So… along those lines: what is the closest city to what you want to climb that you can get work in? For me it’s PDX which isn’t that bad… I just have to change my oil twice a month. And asking people what they like about a city is fair but not really applicable. What one person looks for in a city might be a deterrent for someone else and a mute argument for a third. So… make sure the n. cascades is where its at for you and then determine if the extra amount of driving isn’t something you want to put up with and then make a decision.

Yeah I got some of his shit on vinyl too.

I would live in Seattle if I could but work prevents that. In lieu of my current location I have still managed to climb every weekend since March 04 (with the exception of 3 weekends) almost all of those being in WA state. But I also put 40K on my truck in that same time frame. If you got the option move assuming you are going to take advantage of all WA offers.

I have that song on a 12" single live with the roots backing him, Erykah Badu and Zach de la Rocha. hot hot hot

Tentative plan is 3:30ish until 6:30/7 but we can stay later if people aren't showing up until later. If you are securing a kitchen pass with the wife make sure to build in some burrito time into your proposal. PM me with Q's up until 2; after that: cell: 541.231.2062 alphanumeric: 888.267.5727

Last time I checked this thread is about belay jackets warm enough to be used as the upper half of a half bag. Anybody else spent some nights in a half bag? I'd be curious to hear what you are using. Bubba climbs in that jacket and carries a full sleeping bag. And it doesn't hurt that he is paid to test that stuff.

Nobody said anything about me being an expert. If they did they would be wrong. But I find it comical how opinionated some people are about gear they have never even worn or venues they don’t pursue. Maybe a micropuff is adequate for you due to a higher percentage body fat.

From the guy who doesn't alpine climb. Hmmm...

Endurance. Alfred Lansing. Will put things into perspective about what is and isn't an epic. Has anyone visited Sir Ernest's grave? Or touched the James Caird in London?

Micropuff isn't warm enough to be considered a belay jacket IMO.

Epic.

Which 2?

Do routes in a day and carry no bivy gear or go from a high point (Muir, etc) and leave everything in the tent. Mtn Hardwear makes a good light pair (PG3D)... I have a pair I'll sell you. The new ones from Arc Teryx look like the shit. Negligible

As the saying goes: If you aren't cold you brought too many clothes If you aren't hungry you brought too much food And if you summit it was too easy anyways. Trying going bagless a few times this summer at Smith or something... getting a gauge of what you can and can't do in the alpine with out a bag is a good idea.

If you're gonna get wet and want to go light its the shit. And for you midgets (Rudy!) its almost a full bag!

One of my partners has a DAS and the other has a WT... neither one seems to bitch too much about being cold on route (or maybe they are too busy bitching about me running it out... are you reading this fuckers! call me and lets go climbing!). I had a DAS test garment once... did fine. If it matters to you Patagonia has a better warranty (as liberal as REI) but WTs has a waterproof zipper. AMGA likes the WT one. I think either one is great. I use an arcteryx fission only because it is goretex in the shell so I can leave my goretex jacket at home and climb in soft shell (alpha comp hoody). Good combo for me.

Depends on conditions on route. I have taken my orange nunatak bag (which is a full length zipperless 25 oz 800+ fill down bag ) on multiple day routes in winter but only if the forecast was dry or super cold and wet (so the precip that fell was in the snow form which is much easier to protect your bag from). If its gonna be wet I take the half bag. What routes are you looking at?

What routes are you thinking about using this combo on? Generally if its cold enough to merit a belay jacket I am in climbing pants Arcteryx MX pants or Gamma SV bibs (don't make these anymore). You will get cold well before 25 if you wear that.