John Frieh

Why do I even bother?

Yet another

I will not digress into a discussion on MT’s proposed layering system here as the kids are obviously restless and would love nothing more than additional material for continued needling. Go read it yourself and post questions if you have any. Anyways... if you are buying something for the wind don't bother with a wind shirt. Wind shirts (at least the ones you listed) aren't wind proof. And the wind shirts you listed will get eaten on fist – offwidth cracks. Take a dependable weather forecast over an extra “oh crap” layer… they weigh less. If you think you might get wet just change what you are going to climb in. Extra “just in case” layers will only slow you down so you do get caught in the approaching storm.

duuuude you're gonna blow the onsight of the sit start to diamond life now for sure! maybe you can cut the bristles off your toothbrush to compensate My point is 5 ounces of repair material is a lot of holes. Therefore DrC should expect even more holes as the kappa is beefier than then either of those 2 jackets. Work with me here...

Assumptions only get one into trouble. And at the end of the day none of us know exactly what DrC is going to do with it so it would be asinine to just run one's mouth off about which one is better based on an assumption. The first thing they teach you in outdoor retail is ask the customer what they hope to do with the item before recommending an item. I opened my mouth only to demonstrate the legitimacy of his question. And you should ask Jim to clarify “pretty well”. My Arcteryx Kappa (much beefier than a wind shirt) has gained 5 ounces in weight due to all the holes Arcteryx has patched for me over the past 4 years… the back of the jacket now looks like polka dots. Additionally: I shredded a WT windshirt on 1 weekend at WA pass.

Email Terry.

Good lord, it's a shirt, not a spacecraft. If Dr C plans to layer it over a base layer in a manner similar to what Twight describes in EA then he should get the WT model and save some weight (I suspect this is the case). However if he plan on carrying it in the late spring or early fall as an emergency layer for surprise showers then he should get the patagonia hoody. The WT isn't beefy enough to stand up to alpine rock as an outer layer where as the patagonia one will barely suffice in a pinch (don't plan on making a habit out of it). Additional the Patagonia one has a hood which will keep him a bit drier. Trying to layer the Patagonia piece similar to how twight proposes isn’t the best as the hood will get in the way especially if he wears slings around his body.

How do you plan to use it?

I be implying that you now need to either mantle your lower tool or figure 9 to reach the next hold and as it was your new nemesis... well it just got a little harder. I hope to be climbing Thursday up north so it might be the case that I have to cut early… more later.

For those of you keeping score at home Rainey Pass is 18 miles from the west side closure... hmmm... are you thinking what I'm thinking? Let me know if you need a partner. Thanks for the condition update!

Yes I have some but I'm not parting with any of mine. Try ebay and bring your credit card. Speaking of... any one with a wooden ice axe willing to part with it... PM me with item and price.

I don't know... I'm a chemist

Oldmanrock might recognize this… I tried them out this weekend… those of the old school will perennially be badass in my mind. I don’t know how you guys did it. Thanks again and let me know if you find any other good stuff lying around .

Tube chock (# 6 for reference)... I have 5 of these in various sizes. The good for alpine offwidths... leave big green at home. I have no idea how old these are but I would guess older than me. Some one needs to start making these again... Fern?

Combine that with either/both nw corner or w face of NEWS as the lex descent would spit you out right at the start of either of those and you would have a grade A dope shit day out. All the pitches on either one of those routes on NEWS are so short you can link 'em with a 70 easily. I’ll shoot BP a pm… thanks again d00d!

Agreed. Those bolts don't belong... though does anyone know if the original party placed them? Currently there are 2 3/8" metolius fatties. And speaking of Lexington bolts does anyone know if tooth and claw has been retrobolted? Thanks for the beta on freedom.

Sweet! I want to climb Freedom Rider bad… Good to hear its quality. The 2x6 is rotten... at least the one I clipped in July was (or whenever it was I climbed it this summer). I pulled on the webbing that was threaded through the hole in it and the 2x6 cracked so unless someone has replaced it I wouldn't trust it. If you are climbing the route a 6" piece of something (wood, etc) or the new BD # 6 camalot is adequate... a # 5 camalot is too small. I used a # 6 (6 inch) tube chock and had no problems.

East Face of Lexington. We linked it up with SEWS SW rib for a full day of fun... if you wanted to hold your own offwidth rally bash fest thing you should climb the east face of lex, walk off the west side and then climb the NW corner of NEWS (it would be right there) for a full day of offwidth sampling... that would be a h00t! There are some other photos in my gallery.

Next session is Wednesday Feb 2nd 3:30ish - pump... if you would like a second session let me know. Please PM me if you are planning on attending and what, if any gear you need to borrow. Newbies are welcome and encouraged. Also: Being that I am a fat bastard I broke a significant hold off the right hand route Friday making the much more engaging (sorry Ivan).

Tube chocks are your friend!

I have never complained... who ever it was that was prompted to contact you was under their own steam (unless Pandora asked them too). Perhaps you should ask the mod what prompted it… I would be curious to know. And with that said I think assuming Pandora has the same sense of humor/thickness of skin I do would be a stretch...

She knows we are just funnin'... man you guys are uptight these days... And you guys have got to get something else to raz me about beside the GP... that shit is like 6 months fresh... Offwidths huh?

What do you need a zipper for? Zippers add weight! http://www.nunatakusa.com/

Best screw on the market

Chicks dig buckskin. I'm surprised you turds haven't figured it out yet...