John Frieh

You wish you had something long enough that it could droop under its own weight biznatch! How does it feel knowing a d00d with a supposed big ego and a small droopy gets more than the rest of you turds!? Better start working on your heigh hos! Hey Rudy... make sure to put how much "offwidth experience" you have on your resume!

Porky the pig wasn't a disney character dumbass! Maybe they need a peter the pan climber!

Maybe if one of the seven dwarfs was a climber you could get a job. Heck... if their was a gay dwarf MisterE and you could be coworkers! I can see you two now... "Heigh-ho, Heigh-ho... it's off to climb we go"

What about the Annabelle mountie photo madness? Gaper Timmy still has the classic photo as his avatar photo... People should link these...

yeah...but the 5.9 part rules you out! D00d! I stand a better chance then getting to the top then you! Its multipitch...! You'd pump out from actually having to climb for more than 35 m.

Finally... A job for Pandora or Fox.

That's DJ onsight to you biznatch.

If it’s in the guidebook I stay off it even if the guidebook says avoid the route because its crap. If it isn't in the guidebook but looks like someone might want to climb it at some point I stay off it. Never hurts to get a second opinion when deciding this. If it isn't in the guidebook and is choss then I climb it. If you want a guide to rocky or other spots in PDX let me know. Or better: come on out!

Dumb question - how do you find such routes ? Is it a word-of-mouth kind of thing ? Depends on the area... there are guidebooks for DT areas but mostly Colorado and CAN. Around here it seems mostly word of mouth... where are you looking? Hey NY! Do you have beta for those routes? Location/directions? Rating?

Standard markup is 42% for the climbing industry (hardwear specific).

Just thing how crazy Dwayner is going right now not having the chance to whine about the evils of drytooling and how much damage it brings. Hey D!

Nice pics Matt! Carolyn: a number of the people attending are trying out drytooling more for the opportunity to be a little more familiar/prepared for any DTing they might encounter on an alpine route(s)... hence the leashes (as most of us are leashed up there). Additionally it’s a good chance to see what one can or can’t do with various combinations… I myself regularly test drive as many possible combinations that I might have in the alpine: different glove combos, mono, dual, leashed, spurs, no spurs... I think it’s a good idea for anyone to try out possible gear combinations in the safety/sanity of TR instead of an impromptu introduction on route. Hope to see some more new faces next week!

Agreed. DT is only acceptable on DT routes. Even one or two people (not a critical mass) will seriously alter a route especially if they are new to drytooling as their footwork generally sucks. DT should not be done on rock routes regardless of how dirty/mossy/gritty it is.

TOOL? Perhaps... but the only drytooling I do is outside with ice tools which is more than most of you turds can say. You should come Rudy... its a short approach.

I have a meeting until 3 and have to pick up pandora and ajm so I should be there closer to 4ish. So far I have 3 definite and 1 maybe which will give us a total of 6 or 7. That's right turds... more girls than a PDX or Seattle Pub club (unless you count Dave Schuldt ). Better get your self some tools! Please pm me if you are considering attending so I can ensure we have enough top ropes. Forecast As always: cell: 541.231.2062 alphanumeric: 888.267.5727

Grivel makes it though I think the length is a bit too short. Basically it’s an umbilical... where you attach it (esp. with double handle tools) is crucial if you match/swap hands often or do repetitive figure 4/9s. Post what day you guys are going… I’ll try to come up a few times!

Yeah! I'll take some pics tonight and tomorrow at PDX DT night and post them sometime Thursday. From my experiences and watching other first timers I would suggest your first few times you might want to go with leashes. Also if your interest in DTing is more for alpine preparedness I would say climb like you would in the alpine (w/ leashes).

No knock to Russ Mitrovich, but I'm fairly sure that it was Jimmy Haden was on the sharp end for that pitch. Name dropper!

Hey treknclime and alpinedave: get something going! Get Ade and anybody else interested to go with you!

I give up... I should just start blogging or something.

Alright d00d... mistype on my part. Still drytooling never hurt anyone... agreed? And Russ did turn A4 into M5/6 on the wall of shadows... My friend Brock's third trad climb/first aid route ever was ED-

For me (and just me… maybe others will agree) dry tooling is another skill much like ice, snow, rock and aid, that one needs to develop if one chooses to pursue alpine routes. Alternatively it is yet another form of climbing. Looking in any issue of alpinist you’ll see examples of how the ability to drytool/mix climb was crucial to the success of an attempt. Three I always cite are Steve’s repeat of N Twin (he drytooled the original aid crux easily), Russ’s repeat of the wall of shadow (he also easily cruised the A4 pitch with tools avoiding bringing a ledge and aid gear… he did it with leashed tools and sabertooths also) and the fact that people have turned the A.strain into a car to car affair instead of a desperate classic thanks to a little practice with the tools. But once again… that is why I do it. Some people will go just because its fun. I have fun but at the end of the day its yet another way to train for the alpine. And if you needed another excuse generally most of the crag areas with the exception of some desert spots stay wet all winter so what can you do? Stand in line at the gym while Layton hits on your girlfriend? Maybe… but I just get more out of being outside… so I drytool. With all that said if I had a choice I would rock climb year round... but I don't so I drytool. If you guys get a night up there I'd be stoked to come up and get in on the action. You kids just need to pick a night and plan it... people will come.

Classic. I'd be interested in getting all the info you have.

Honestly anything that isn’t an established route or in a developed area is fair game. More specifically it would rude to assume that something is tool material just because it isn’t in the guidebook that it hasn’t or won’t be done… JosephH is a prime example of people finding new routes in areas that people thought were cleaned out and sending. Basically if it looks like choss reach for your tools. Things I would look for in your area: - good TR anchor options that you can access without having to lead the route. Preferable one can TR multiple lines off the same anchor. - Thin (pick size) cracks seem to be the best for people new to drytooling for pick placements. Hooking and camming can be frightening at first so starting out on routes that require a lot of that might be a bit much if not discouraging. - small positive edges… the more the merrier for foot placements. Unless you are driving monos you are going to do a lot of scratching on thin cracks searching for feet placements… edges alleviate this problem. - the longer the better. Ideally 30 m routes. - close to town. Driving 40 minutes for slightly better routes equals less climbing time. Honestly anything works… I “boulder”on a brick wall near my house. If you can find an out of the way concrete wall/bridge underpass/etc take your Bosch out and manufacture a route. I started on a bridge near my house but I’m moving soon so I am waiting to see where I buy before I finish it. Other good suspects include road cuts, old buildings, and local choss heaps everywhere. And finally: you could always move to PDX . Have fun J and where ever you go take mr. early retirement with you! He could use something to do.

In California.