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John Frieh

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Everything posted by John Frieh

  1. Two cents: after doing numerous (30? I lost count after 20 something) v threads in sub zero temps coming off Huntington last winter I just cant imagine taking a v threader that I knew would break at some point. In fact if my v threader had broken we didn't have enough rack to leave to get down. I did 17 v threads bailing off of GCC on Kitchner a few years ago. Same story there: if my v threader had broken coming off of GCC I would have been in a world of hurt. Personally I like the Candela for a number of reasons but can understand if others don't. I would say whatever v threader you decide on I would recommend you are highly confident that it will not break on you especially if you have your eye on longer routes.
  2. Scott: "If people are trying to bring you down, it only means that you are above them."
  3. :laf: Good stuff dudes. Anyone care to comment on the rock quality behind those hangers? I cant help but wonder why no one hasnt bolted lines up to the ice... yet.
  4. Purchased a skylounge when they first came out. Sometime during the first season some how managed to bend the bolts in the corners...? Send it back to BD and they replace the entire thing (not just the bolts) which was rad on their part. Overall the ledge can be way faster or way slower than setting up the Cabana... it mostly depending on you. Some ample practice (free hanging, on a slab, in the dark, etc etc) should ensure you dont epic Footprint wise they are roughly the same dimensions as an I tent (in fact an I tent will fit on the ledge) so if an I tent is too small for you I would consider a larger ledge. Shoot me a PM if you have other questions
  5. Which one? The skylounge (old style red one that folded out) or the cliff cabana?
  6. I was logging some zone 2 on the stationary the other night and enjoyed watched this: It's not climbing but I thought it was good and well... it's free... What'd you think of Moonflower? Any good?
  7. I'll buy your old Grivel Candela if you dont want it
  8. It's on a metal swage cable. You can kinda see it in this picture: http://media.community.gore-tex.com/_Maestri39s-compressor-is-still-bolted-to-Cerro-Torre39s-headwall-Its-the-only-stance-for-4-pitches/photo/7421304/98605.html Still there. Never chopped.
  9. "That climb was stolen from the future. Without all those bolts the history of that marvelous mountain would have been very different. I am convinced that in alpinism how you have climbed is more important than what you have climbed, and I have no doubt that the best are those that leave the least amount of stuff behind."
  10. Hey John: Friends tried it on Sat. Guess P1 is sporting a bit of a roof and bad ice. Sounded pretty scary. They ended up bailing. Thanks dude. Dammit.
  11. You looking to go this weekend John?
  12. Czech and standard got climbed about a week ago but with all the recent snow I'd bet they are either buried or unsafe. Goat was missing a large chunk of the lower section so doubt that it's back in but who know...?
  13. "The strongest indicator that a civilization has reached the point of no return is the disappearance of public shame."
  14. What this country needs is a good plague.
  15. Bump. Any updates?
  16. Nice work. Any pics of Ovisight?
  17. Anywhere in particular? Mist or Starvation Creek are usually the first to form. If you happen by those or Crowl Jewel a pic would be greatly appreciated.
  18. Anybody driving the gorge today?
  19. Pictures please. "In" is highly subjective I have found
  20. I'm fairly certain Kevin is in Texas visiting family. I believe Kurt Hicks climbed the NE face of the tooth today so I bet he will have an update by this weekend.
  21. I'm keen on Friday if anyone is interested especially if you can carpool from Portland
  22. What amount is required for all these effects to occur? 1 drink a day? 2? More? Exactly - the least the original author could do is post a titration curve that shows how much exercise is required to negate each unit of alcohol. KK and JayB: if you guys are interested shoot me an email or a PM.
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