John Frieh

+1

A week from today! Come drink beer and talk shit for a shitter at Vantage

I want to say Chad and Dylan did everything from Hood north in like 4 days or so.

+1 I will say I have yet to purchase an OZ that actually weighs 28 grams. I suspect most "lightweight" biners are this way

By chance are you a chopper or bush pilot? Never lived there but I know a few SE AK climbers if you need a partner

It should be noted Greg Smith was an 'Executive Director', not an 'Executive'. Most analysts make ED by their thirties... assuming they survive that long.

We soloed it so yes no pro

Trip: Strobach - Nosebleed Seats (FA) Date: 3/10/2012 Trip Report: Summary: First Ascent of Nosebleed Seats WI2 ~60 meters Daniel Harro and John Frieh March 10 2012 Details: Spotted a few lines I had never seen before on the approach. Daniel and I set our eyes on the best looking one and headed in that direction. Climbed the first and second pitches of First on the Left. From the top of the second pitch of First on the Left we traversed up and left (see below photo) to reach Nosebleed Seats Not as steep as we hoped but nonetheless crusier hero ice. In March. In Washington. In the sun. Can't complain about that. Location. Taken on the approach. Nosebleed Seats from below First on the Left from below Daniel on the first pitch of First on the Left First on the Left second pitch Nosebleed Seats Gear Notes: Nothing longer than 16 cm Approach Notes: GREAT conditions if you start early enough. Will likely want snowshoes on the way out as things soften up in the heat of the day. 2.5 for us in; 1.5 out.

Or you could just get a minivan

Freedom. Mom carries kid and I carry everything else.

Thanks all. It was very cool to see so many familiar faces in the crowd. I'm looking forward to the Seattle show which yes we dont have a date just yet. Stay tuned. Many thanks to the Mazamas for hosting!

http://coldcoldworldpacks.com/available.htm http://www.mountainlight.com/ http://www.mountaingear.com/webstore/home.htm?Ntt=calendar

Tonight. 7 pm. Free. I cant emphasize enough how hard Dave worked on the movie... it is so much more than random GoPro footage stitched together. I really think you guys will be impressed. A small sample. I would be stoked... and maybe a little surprised... if Portland took an interest in something besides Beacon Rock.

Ergo for 0 -> too big for them. Once they outgrow the ergo check out the littlelife brand... they carry well but dont weight a ton like some of the other branks. And you'll want the newborn insert for the first few months though a folded blanket is an okay substitute.

+1

I've done three seminars with Rob Shaul/Mountain Athlete since 2008 and I dont know if I agree with him on mixing sport specific training (hangboards, campus boards, etc) into regular training sessions (weights, cardio, etc). I think Rob's program has some solid improvements over say good old fashion CrossFit but that said I disagree with some of his program design.

We are daily bombarded by solutions to real and imagined problems. I saw something today claiming that the future of training is in the past, and that primal eating and activity is the way forward. Constantly analyzing and accepting or rejecting these solutions is a time-killer without equal. And quite often, an adopter, realizing how much time and energy he or she invested in finding a personally acceptable solution starts to proselytize and defend it, and eventually offend everyone in ear- or screenshot. The louder they shout - and I've been a shouter - the more I reject them. And the more I ask, "what is good?" What gets people to pay better attention is good. If group workouts do so, great. If a new training fad makes you exercise in the first place, great. If zone/ paleo/ eat for your blood type/ whatever-the-fuck makes you more aware of your eating behavior and take steps to correct it, great. But that's all it is so why do we give product and promises and shortcuts - the so-called solutions - supernatural power? Why do we imagine an easy way out? Have we dug ourselves so miserably deep that only hope offers a lifeline? Doing the hard work we know is needed to reverse course is the more difficult act to imagine. So we stake our future on failed shortcut after dead end miracle. How long will it take to learn? How much time will be wasted before we buckle down and get on with unfucking what we have done to ourselves? First we have to quit believing the hype of our uniqueness. When we are told over and over we are elite and special we begin to believe it, and to search for particular, individual activities or supports to help improve us. But how special could one possibly be? How different? Is a bio-identical supplement needed? Or a signature diet and training and sleep plan? If buying into it makes you pay better attention and causes consistent, heightened awareness then yes: useful but not necessary. Haile Gebrselassie grew up on a crap diet with no supplements and set 27 world records. There are others like him. And if this level of performance is not dependent on special diets or supplements or shoes or a magic jockstrap then how could all that be necessary at the very mediocre levels of performance we can achieve? Pay attention. Understand your actual current condition. Define realistic objectives. Learn what it will take to achieve them. Execute and hold yourself to the standard you determined was required. Do not allow distraction. Pay attention. And when the snake oil salesmen come around don't take the bait. Deep inside you know that what is needed cannot be bought or sold.

:laf: Yeh, what's so funny, Burkett Boy? Sergey Litvinov. Google and learn. And how do you define "cardio"?

:laf:

Ill take #1 camalot, rambo crampons, and bluewater nuts.

If you are interested in hosting a show send me an email: john dot p dot frieh AT gmail

Still working out the logistics but yes we will do a Seattle show at some point.

Portland. March 7th. 7 pm. Mazama Mountaineering Center FREE!

Though I havent visitied the Waddington Range (yet) I've chartered a few chopper flights and most (all?) chopper services charge in 1/10 (tenths) of an hour. Every six minutes the total bill increases. The pilot most likely will record total flying time and use this to calculate your final bill. As far as finding the magic # that makes it the cheapest for all parties involved I would say see what the least # of flights is you can get away with... can you squeeze 2 people + gear into one flight? 3 people + gear? Depends on you. I will add for 2k you could do a couple central range AK trips.