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Blake

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Everything posted by Blake

  1. nice E. Ropeup carpool next Weekend? I can drive.
  2. way to go Doxey. Tim and I did paisano/Burgundy on SAT and were conjecturing on if you had been climbing at all. Don't let your son crawl into the backyard patch of Devils Club. Tim got a good laugh when I asked "Hey, is Doxey's son named Guiseppe?"
  3. yes, Top-roping through two opposed normal quickdraws is safe and standard procedure. changing any or all of the 4 carabiner for lockers would be technically safer, but the chances of that actually preventing an otherwise-accident seem astronomically tiny. Adjust QD or runner lengths to have the load shared as equally as possible.
  4. yeah, but SF Jello tower IS 5.8 by Castle rock standards... its more in line with "catapult" and easier than Damnation (5.9)
  5. hey, I was the guy driving the green Subaru who talked to you Sat evening. There's a cave up on the M&M wall, kinda cross teh hwy from the wine-spires approach pullout.
  6. what kind of rock is that? The chimney part looks really fun and solid.
  7. $50 for anyone who finds any of the 3 bolts on the W. Face route.
  8. Being poor and on-the-lookout for booty sometimes pays off!
  9. That route on spider is not there any more this year.
  10. well, the road, bypass, and puddle are indeed driveable. A friend and I did 'Dreamer' yesterday. My first D-town climb. We started on the dreamer direct, and used urban-bypass + some other off route hijinks to join Dreamer at P.5 .10b Slab climbing seems harder (or at least a lot different) than other types of .10b climbing. Those two 5.9 underlcing traverse pitches awere great!
  11. Edit that... I thoguht it was scarier than even the 5.10whatever finger crack on P.3
  12. That sounds like a Harroing experience.
  13. heading up there tomorrow... any secret driving info or tricks to deal with the maze of D-town logging roads? It'll be my first time. If I follow the driving/approach info in Selected Climbs will I be ok?
  14. whatever happend to slinging chickheads? I think that just takes a runner and a carabiner.
  15. Hey, anyone intersted in climbing at Squamish on mon and/or tuesday? I a in Bellingham and I can drive. email works well too.
  16. Ross, I am down mon and tuesday. see PMs
  17. there's an ancient looking #2 camalot about 3/4 up Air Guitar
  18. thanks Pax, thats what I was looking for. I'm not a good technical climber for hard routes, but this seemed easier than the 5.9s at Index and Castle Rock. Is that typical for vantage?
  19. I was at Vantage the other day and did Air guitar. I was wondering what caused the death of Goran Kropp? I know there is a huge thread about it, but there weren't really any "known" facts, and there is just a lot of speculation in there. It seems like the top 20", from which he fell, is easily protectable with #3 or 4 camalots, or big hexes. Was there ever a proven consensus on the cause of the death? P.S. Is it standard to go out right onto the chalked arete to bypass the finger tip section near the beginning?
  20. these are shoes we are talking about here john, i think he wears them, not drives them. My question is, if he loaned them to you, would you still get pulled over for speeding in them?
  21. "... maybe I can find that neutrino if I just get a little different perspective."
  22. oooooooh snap
  23. It's a lot longer than 15' of hard laybacks/jams/OW-ing etc before you can get to the no hands rest and begin to chimney. Bouldering wont teach you to place, save, or plan out protection when you are stressed and hanging by one arm or something.
  24. See Beacon Rock...
  25. I'd think October or November, as crevasses can be covered by a thin layer of new, unbonded snow that just hides them.
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