Blake

no, it will get chewed up and blown away first.

Sounds just like Silvrettas that you can get for a lot less than $400! Pandora was selling a pair of skis mounted with these bindings, plus skins, for $325 last week. You can wear ski or climbing/mountaineering boots in these.

Couldn't one legitimately say that at this point it was just trash in the mountains, and wasn't doing anyone any good? When looked at objectively, they were just old litter.

I bootied 3 or 4 pins from Gunsight that Fred Beckey or Lloyd ANderson probably put there in the 30s or 40s. They came out with a few rock taps and certainly weren't needed for the climb. Should I feel bad about that?

skins?

Wayne, the ice was never thick enough for a screw, but for most of the first 3 pitches, there was fairly good tool placements. It made the sudden contrast to loose sugar snow that much more difficult, plus it hid all the rock features underneath.

Trip: Snoqualmie Mtn - NY Gulley Date: 1/16/2007 Trip Report: Early in the week, Frosty-the-tradman and I tried to climb NY Gulley. We made it just past the crux bit, but then the snow/ice that had been pretty good, became a deep and completely useless covering of sugar snow on everything. We rapped off some pins and other gear back to the base. Here are some pretty pictures. Neither of us is much of a mixed climber, so someone with more experience and Winter skills might have carried on just fine. It was part scary, and part fun. -Blake P.S. finding the base of the route, even in the dark, was pretty easy, even though we were just visiting climbers from the north.

way to go! why do you need to ropes to rap a 65' climb?

sounds like an ideal cascades summer bag... I wish I had the $$$.

If you know you will climb in rock shoes, wear lighter tennies on the hike in instead of larger boots. Heavy boots weight down your pack a lot when you bag them up and put on the rock shoes. Check out the super-light harnesses from CAMP, they rock! (falling in them doesn't hurt too much actually)

Ross, that flat spot atop the Fremont actually is a deep bowl (wind-scoop type thing) that fills up with water in the summers. I haven't seen a feature like it anywhere else. You can see it on the left side of this picture: Fremont TR

i would get a green camalot. think about all your climbing that you will do. how often will you place that piece in a very shallow horizontal slot, VS all other placement types. Even if you did place the green Camalot in a horizontal placement, and DID fall on it, and that did bend the stem, and you did replace it.... it just seems more logical to buy some pro based upon how you'll use it 99% of the time, not some very unlkely scenario. If you were constantly placing that sized piece in shallow horizontal cracks, and falling on it, then get a tricam.

You can ski up the Fremont Glacier to near the top of Logan from your camp spot at PcP. I know it wouldn't be a first, but it's still pretty rad. Plus Fred describes it as "Lovely Parklands."

I skied in there with billygoat last winter for some touring, and there was a skin track the whole way. Nice slopes and seracing up there, even if you do have to skin up the road a ways from whereever you park.

http://www.king5.com/sharedcontent/VideoPlayer/makeASX.php?title=www.king5.com/kiraw_011607portlandhomevid.wmv wow, anyone know where that is?

That route is made for simul-climbing IMO. lots and lots of straightforward 5.0 climbing on pretty good rock, with just a couple pitches of mid fifth class thrown in.

sorry, deleted a bunch. i PMEd you. why can't people just emial?

I climbed this back in October with Tim (therunningdog)... it is definitely a great day out. I think it's a route that ought to be done more. For the beta overload, here you go: The Paisano route begins at the first/only/obvious notch low down on the ridge. It was my first time to the area and I found it easily. To Begin, go around a corner to your right, and you will find a nice 5.8 dihedral with finger locks heading upwards. The trimmed branches (thanks to local guides) prove you are on route. From here, just head up about 4 pitches of non-sustained 5.8 climbing. Stay on the ridge crest, the rock is excellent. There is only one really tricky spot. On the 5thish pitch, beautiful twin finger/hand cracks lead up from a ledge into some orangeish rock, a belay block/horn, and an apparent dead-end where this photo was taken. From here, look directly left to a small pine tree on the left (North) side side of the ridge. Traverse around left to the pine tree (~25') and climb back up to the ridge crest from there. If you don't traverse left, you have about 30' of unprotected 5.7 face climbing above the twin cracks, to get back on the protectable crest. (or you could choose your own adventure by heading up between the two, 5.9 R, I left a few holds on there) The final pitch includes a bit of slab climbing on the crest of the ridge to reach the summit of Paisano. Nothing very runout, and scraped-off lichen shows you where to go. From the Paisano-Burgundy notch, we did burgundy in 4 pitches. Two pitches up the left side of the North Face ampitheater, one long rightward traverse pitch under the leaning block, and one rope-strecther pith to the summit via a 5.8 or 5.9 offwidth crack at the top. The right of the two offwidths can be protected with smaller gear placed further in. Save some time on the summit to TR the 5.10 chimney finish and the other offwidth that you didn't take!

pretty sure the second person on your list is a Republican Pretty sure that Jesus doesn't give a fuck what letter is printed next to your name, and isn't too thrilled with the way either political party operates. Claiming Jesus to be a member of your political or military team is a dangerous and in my opinion, misguided thing to do.

Index - LTW Castle Rock SCW Index - UTW Sunshine Wall Beacon Rock (S Side) Tieton - The Bend Pearly Gates W Side of the Early Winter Spires Snag Wall - Erie

i'll be in keystone/vail fron dec-14th to Jan 2nd... there's ice nearby! check your PMs or send me an email

Fisher Pass, with a Fisher Creek on both sides. http://www.topozone.com/map.asp?lat=48.5379&lon=-120.89262&s=100&size=l&u=4&datum=nad27&layer=DRG25

Did the Skoog route on the East side of Gunsight ever get climbed again before cllapsing? The West side Nelson route hasn't been repeated along the original line the whole way.

Dylan, I cleaned out my PM box, but feel free to email as well. -Blake

Has Eve Dearborne Memorial Route been climbed more than once? Any select climbs (first volume/edition) still waiting a 2nd ascent?