Blake

Thanks for the TR, I thought i saw freshiez on Boston and Sahale on Monday.

Fire is out, Stehekin is Safe for visitors! + I get overtime Pay.

What's a good alternative to Diedre as a good moderate multi-pitch trad route? less popular/less greasy

Where is the papoose in relation to The apron or the smoke bluffs?

heard Croft also did the NEB on Goode solo.

what do you want? I can just pay you some money too, the cinnamon rolls were kinda a joke.

As of 7/26 there is a large wildfire just down lake chelan from Stehekin about 3 miles, and located on the north shore of the lake. This fire is already hundreds of acres (began today) and has spread up to, or nearly up to the Sawtooth summit trail @ ~8000'. Trails that are close and mtns nearby would be the: Lake Chelan lakeshore trail, Purple Pass Trail, Summit Trail, Reynold's Peak, and Fish Creek Trails. To get updated info on which of these trails is closed and anything else, call the NPS office and they should know. Adjust your plans accordingly and pray for rain!

If that was one of the pieces from gunsight, it was a little tweaked then.

Anyone got an old rope bag with fold-out tarp they want to sell for some $$ or trade for cinnamon rolls from the Stehekin Bakery? Can probably get picked up the in Seattle area, or else local shipping to Bellevue. Thanks!

I have this CAMP harness (XLH 130) http://www.progearzone.com/Camp-XLH-130-Climbing-Harness-p/125-14702.htm I bought it when it was the lightest out there. It is 130 grams (about 4 wiregate biners) and I have worn it on every every alpine rock route i've done over the last two summers, which has been quite a few. I also go cragging in it with no problems. It's great. I think it is actually more comfy than my BD alpine bod.

Luke, when you get back to Bellingham you'll have to let me babysit while you get your bouldering fix. Good luck on all the re-immigration hassles for your whole family.

Go to the south island, there are more quality crags than you can shake a stick at. I can give you more specifics if you want. The book for the south island is called "Rock Deluxe" by ivan vostinar... much better than the "South Island Rock."

John is that the piece is was AO-ing on during the Gunsight expedition? it seemed a tad tweaked then, but not so bad as seen now.

bit of a random question I know... but what kind of underwear do the guy out there like to wear for days of long hikes or long climbs. general summertime alpine adventures? I get annoyed with normal cotton boxers and I'm looking for suggestions.

what's the story?

John, get it changed to say "I did the approach to Gunsight Peaks FOUR times... and all I got was this lousy tattoo."

DirtyHArry: Translation: I climb on only pasive pro

Thanks for the compliments. Someone who onsights 5.11 at Index should go give a shot at the first free ascent now!

The "unnamed lake" N. of Dagger is Stilleto Lake.

Nice job on the route, especially braving that stream crossing that we spent forever on. I don't want to just be argumentative, but I've done this route 2x in the last 12 months and I think you can sew things up very very well with mid sized nuts. I brought one cam along and never felt run out.

Climb: Gunsight Peaks-West Face & South Ridge Date of Climb: 7/10/2006 Trip Report: Just The facts: July 8-10 saw myself and John Frieh climb the North, middle, and South Gunsight Peaks. We did the 2nd ascent of the North Peak's W. Face (new route or variation of the 1986 route), and we believe our route on the South Peak was a new line entirely. It was a great trip to a very remote spot. The Narrative: On the morning of the 8th, we set out from the Agnes Creek trail, and climbed to the Chickamin Glacier where we set up camp for a few days in the "Patagonia of the North Cascades." We were really hot, tired, and dehydrated from the approach, but decided to give the 1986 Nelson/Dietrich route a try, on the towering West face. I led a 40m pitch of sustained 5.9 on awesome granite. I climbed past two sets of bail gear, one of which we believe belonged to Forest Murphy's attempt a few years ago. (He had previously told John that they were off-route). After stopping at a saucer-sized belay perch and bringing up John, he lead up about 20' to where a wide roof intersected our line and all cracks thinned out. I was nervously trying to balance on my one-foot belay ledge when I heard a sasquatch-like scream and saw John flying through the air. He had taken a ~20' fall and was luckily caught by a 1/2" cam he'd placed below the roof. We decided to call that our "recon" attempt and go back to the shade of our tent and re-hydrate. On the 9th we braved the 5 minute approach back to the route, climbed back up to the first day's belay spot, and John led out again. We were able to work together to ID a likely looking crack to get past our prior high spot, and some A1/A2 moves on hand-tied aiders got us past the roof and into a set of good looking flakes. The next pitch (#3) was my lead, and I started out with some free moves up to 5.10ish before resorting to A0 cam-hanging as the crack widened and flared. With a mix of aid and free moves I lead to the next belay and John got the security of a top-rope on a beautiful fist-jam flake pitch. Too much fun... For pitch four, the flake/corner system went through a couple of small roofs and continued to be fairly vertical the whole way. John was grateful for the #5 camalot as he climbed up more vertical granite to a belay at the first moderately comfy ledge on the face. I followed mostly free, but with some definite rope-tugging on sections as well. From here I grabbed, the rack, and led straight up into P.5, a dark corner straight over our heads. This was a really fun free lead for me, as I knew we were getting close, and the climbing was a good mix of stemming, face features, and crack jams. The top of the corner visible from the belay spot is the top of the route. You literally mantle up from the corner onto the flat summit terrace. From the exit move atop P.5, you could easily flick a rock out a few feet and it would free-fall to the base of the wall. We didn't see any of the three bolts used by the 1986 party, we climbed the wall in 5 pitches (as opposed to their 7) and we encountered bail gear of other climbers who felt that they were NOT on the previously established route. We don't know how much is shared between the two lines, but maybe Jim Nelson could add some input. It's rad to consider that the only other ascent of that face was done the year I was born. After looking at the old summit register and reading the autograph of some guy named Fred Beckey, we scrambled to the North/Middle peak notch, and climbed a solid pitch of low-5th class to that summit as well. On the 10th, John and I decided to try to climb the South Peak as well. From the Gunsight-Blizzard Col we climbed North along the ridge crest, before dropping off the ridge to the right. It would be best just to stay to the right of the ridge on easy snow and slab. Eventually we reached a clean right-facing corner and began the route. The corner went at 5.7, and I led up and continued to the ridge crest on cool chickenheads and face features and belayed up John. From here John took the lead on a balancy and memorable traverse pitch across a giant cannonhole, and into the last notch before the South Peak. From here, one more pitch of mid-fifth class led to the south summit. From this summit, you can rappel the last pitch, and then make one overhanging 90' rappel onto the snow down the east side. We're calling this the South Ridge - South Gunsight (Grade II, 5.7, 3 pitches) Overall this was an amazing few days in the mountains. Thanks John Scurlock for the really inspirational photos! (Scurlock's shot of the 3 summits) Gear Notes: glacier gear, full set of nuts, full set of cams, pink tricam. Approach Notes: Should have been a week or two later for ripe huckleberries.

If you do the hike down bridge creek, its 12 slightly downhill miles to teh stehekin road, then 3 miles along the washed-out road to where cars can get to. If you hike down rainbow creek, then it's ~20 miles, you go over mcalester pass (6000') and you end up 2.5 miles up-valley from the stehekin landing, and near the bakery too!

I bootied a #4 stopper off of Goode the other day and it had the "c" in diamond for Chouinard and no curve (symmetrical sides) and an exposed wire swage. Anyone know how old it must be? or when the design/name changed?

I don't think so Dru, it seems like it would be much bigger than the width someone could chimney. We were a ways off though...

Cool, nice to see a TR from that side of the mountain. I definitely sent in the old register (and various scraps) to the proper people last summer, it was very full.