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Everything posted by Blake
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first ascent [TR] The Mythical Bellingham Big Wall- 7/21/2005
Blake replied to dberdinka's topic in North Cascades
I think there's potential for more quality climbs up there too. E. Face of Skookum peak anyone? Rolf or Pete, can you describe how the river crossing went? The bridge sections had washed out last October. -
good luck finding a line on Booker.
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Aim for the tree in the top left of pic #1. This route was fun and should see more traffic.
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Where are the state crags exactly?
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There's a finger crack in there as well that beckey calls A1 or .10+ and it was the only option mentioned in the older edition of the CAG. (apparently before it had been freed because it was first just listed as A1)
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felt stiffer than an index .9 to me, and WA pass is softer than index. Maybe i am just out of shape.
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The third pitch of the SW Rib of SEWS (above the 5.8 Offwidth) has a few options and one of them is a finger crack above a black/licheny slab. It begins as a rightward layback, (the corner is only about 4") then goes to straight-in finger locks, and then you can move right and to a wider left-facing corner, or some wide stemming. It's on a light-colored vertical face. I'm trying to figure out which variation this is, and what it is rated. Does anyone know?
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PM Healyj or Heallyj
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Anyone know how old the Gunsight one is? It can;t be seen in the CAG photos. Perhaps the same rockfall incident that doomed the Skoog/Brill route?
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best of cc.com [TR] Bonanza- NW Ridge via Dark Pk. (IV 5.8)
Blake replied to Blake's topic in North Cascades
tryin' to be artsy -
[TR] Mox Peaks, Mt. Redoubt - 8/2006 - PICTORIAL
Blake replied to Tom_Sjolseth's topic in North Cascades
Do you know if the sub-summit of SE mox that Erik Wolfe and Mike Layton's 2005 route led toward is still unclimbed? Is Roy all done with his top 100 now? nice job, looks like a pretty great excursion. -
make it so that Sent PMs are saved by default?
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So was this Kearney? Anyone more info you want to spill on these unrecorded routes? P.S. it's the NE not NW peak.
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first ascent [TR] Baron Falls Tower–Carpal Tunnel (FA) 8/19/06
Blake replied to John Frieh's topic in Idaho
NCSS? -
first ascent [TR] Baron Falls Tower–Carpal Tunnel (FA) 8/19/06
Blake replied to John Frieh's topic in Idaho
I just can't see something liek this being the same grade as the SE corner at beacon rock, something ivan solos multiple times in tennis shoes after work while high as a kite. (sorry ivan!) -
first ascent [TR] Baron Falls Tower–Carpal Tunnel (FA) 8/19/06
Blake replied to John Frieh's topic in Idaho
Dru and Pete, just for an example Nelson calls the West Face of Gunsite a grade III or IV and it was just 5 pitches for us, none of which were over 50m. -
Post deleted by Blake
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So I was told that one of the northen face routes on Forbidden as a great climb with an ice start (1 or 2 pitches) and then good rock (cracks and chickenheads) that lead eventually directly to the summit. Would this be the NW face, or NW face of the North Ridge?
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best of cc.com [TR] Bonanza- NW Ridge via Dark Pk. (IV 5.8)
Blake replied to Blake's topic in North Cascades
He went up the Mary Greene glacier to the NE Ridge, the true summit, then traversed to the West Summit, then headed onward to the SW Summit. Other than the Main->West Summits traverse (which we did in opposite directions) we were on different routes entirely. As far as I can tell, our route was a new one all the way from Dark Peak to the West Summit of Bonanza. I'm still trying to figure out how the whole "climb grade" system works as well, but it would be a grade V if the start of the route is the base of the Dark Glacier (where we roped up from and began climbing in my opinion) and a grade IV if you consider the route beginning at Dark Peak summit. -
totally gone as of 2 weeks ago. From the summit looking down it was tough to imagine the route even being there. From the fairly high snow levels this spring, things have melted out super fast all over the place.
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How does WA PASS sound instead?
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best of cc.com [TR] Bonanza- NW Ridge via Dark Pk. (IV 5.8)
Blake replied to Blake's topic in North Cascades
Phil, that is the same ridge. I think it took us about 2 hours, Tim might remember better. Beckey suggest 4 hours. I'm not sure how many times it's been done, probably just a handfull. The West Summit register was probably buried by snow when you were there two Junes ago, but the cool Company Glacier ski video on your webpage helped plant the seed for this route in my mind. -
As Far as trees go, I figure if you can fall and hit it, then you can use it for the climb.
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first ascent [TR] Baron Falls Tower–Carpal Tunnel (FA) 8/19/06
Blake replied to John Frieh's topic in Idaho
wow... 3x Idaho in one month! that looks like a really fun climb John. Did you use the #6? -
generally its a safe bet to assume that frequently done/easier-ish/cascades classic type routes can be rapped with a single 60m. (or stations have been set up by now to allow this)
